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Since I can't buy the rail bender, and since I have a mini-lathe (Sieg C2) sitting begging me to use it (I have been procrastinating!), I made my own, based on what I could see of the Roy C. My little black Hornby 0-4-0 locomotive handled the tight 150mm radius curve easily, running slowly on 6 volts power. All listings sold via Auction are subject to a 15% Buyer's Premium which will be collected at checkout.
The worst example of the limitations of preformed curves is probably when a train coming off a straight section lurches into a curve like a toy.
On my dad's HO railroad, the answer was simple, buy a bunch of "flex track," wrap it anywhere you wanted track, and tack it down.
In many cases, "flextrack" consists of pieces of track 36" or longer on which the "tie strips" are attached loosely, so they have lots of lateral "give." For smaller scales, that's all you need to know.
Flextrack conforms to your plans, your environment, and your roadbed; in contrast, pre-formed curves force your plans and your roadbed to conform to the limitations of your track. You can order flextrack before you have your railroad completely designed; with pre-formed curves, your plans have to be pretty far along before you order your track so you know how many of each kind of piece to get.
Code 250 flextrack is less expensive by the foot than most pre-curved track (which is code 332 and uses more material). Because flextrack rails are longer (up to ten feet), you have fewer chances for electrical connectivity to break down between track sections.
With flextrack you don't have to go "back to the drawing board" if you discover that you miscalculated the radius of your roadbed or where to put your supports. Best of all, if you know you're going to be using flextrack, the "sky is the limit" as far as planning goes.
True, some Large Scale flextrack has more "give" than others, depending on the size of the rail and the material used. Code 332, once properly bent, is structurally very rigid - it stands up better to kids and deer walking on the track, sagging roadbed, and other mechanical problems that would cause problems with smaller rails. Many more kinds of turnouts (switches), crossings, and other track accessories are available for code 332 track. Note: Unlike code 332 track, in which the ties and rails are pretty interchangeable among brands, some brands of code 250 ties will not work with other brands of code 250 rails and vice versa. Aluminum is even softer than brass, so aluminum code 250 flextrack, such as that made by Llagas Creek, can also be installed without a railbender if you are careful and your curves are not too tight.
Although some people say that aluminum track is marginally less conductive than clean brass track, others point out that aluminum oxide (which forms on the surface when aluminum corrodes) conducts electricity anyway, so it requires less cleaning than brass track to give the same quality service. Stainless Steel is the "mother of all track materials," in that it doesn't rust or corrode and that once it's installed, it's extremely rigid.
A fourth option, Nickel Silver is about as corrosion resistant as stainless steel and almost as flexible and conductive as brass, so it's a good choice when available. As you can see, using a railbender is recommended for any Large Scale flextrack, and required for most.
Railbenders work by gripping and applying pressure on the center, thin part of the rail, known as the "web," at the same time holding the rail on a level plane.
There is one railbender that bends rails properly while they're still in the tie strips, but it currently costs more than the other kind, so it's mostly being used by professionals and people with really big railroads to build.
Because most railbenders work about the same, I've combined and "averaged out" tips from several people who've used different kinds but all had similar advice. Find a place to work where you'll have room for the longest piece of track on either side of your work place. Slide a piece of rail unto the railbender (most of these don't care if you use it "left-handed" or "right-handed." The capstans should be putting pressure onto the web of the wheel, not the head or foot.
Turn the crank or handle gently, watching to make certain the rail stays in line with the capstans as it travels through the device.
If it is curved too much, turn the rail 180 degrees, back off of the adjustment, and feed the rail back through. Most users report that the last inch or two of track doesn't get bent at all, due to the placement of the rails.
Once you have the "hang" of the railbender, you'll realize that the most time-consuming part of the whole process is sliding the tie strips back onto the rails. At this time, only one mass-produced railbender bends both rails at once while the ties are still installed. According to the Train-Li web site and several user comments, it seems that you find a place to work (a bit of driveway, or a solid roadbed, if you already have it installed). Adjust the DuoTrack it for the curve you want, and roll it back and forth until you have the amount of bend you need.
Kevin Strong also mentioned that you can get around the "last straight inch" problem by attaching the "next" piece of track with a rail joiner or rail clamp that attaches to the foot of the rail only (this wouldn't work with Aristo rail joiners, which also fasten to the web).
When you're satisfied with the curve, and the track is in place, double-check the levels and move on. You may wonder why, when you can get a Hi-Fi videocassette recorder with many high-precision moving parts for $60, "name brand" rail benders cost anywhere from $80-$260. This product includes a very large handle and crank to make it easy to bend even stainless steel track.
Sunset Valley also makes several kinds of track for garden railways, mostly using brass, aluminum, and nickel silver code 250 rail. Llagas Creek has been making quality flexible Large Scale track using code 250 aluminum rail since the 1980s.
The ability to attach an electric drill so you can bend a lot of track in a hurry without wearing yourself out. I believe that this railbender bolts down rather than requiring a vise; since I don't tend to take my workshop outside, this is actually a help, I can fasten it to any old work table. User reviews are very positive; one user remarked that this railbender worked so well with the Llagas creek track they felt no need to use the power drill adapter. Like the Train-Li bender described below, Norm's "Premium dual rail code 332 and code 250 track bender has twice as many capstans as the single-rail benders described above, so it works on track that is assembled, curving both rails at the same time.

The EasyBend DuoTrack has twice as many capstans as the single-rail benders described above, so it works on track that is assembled, curving both rails at the same time. Because you work with the track on the ground, you don't have to worry about unsupported rail twisting. Train Li also claims that this bender gives more consistent radii than single-rail benders. Probably the single biggest advantage is that, after you bend the rails, you don't have to spend several minutes reinstalling the tie strips.
The DuoTrack has been tested on AristoCraft code 332 stainless steel track - the "stiffest" large scale track you can buy, with very good results, although they say it takes a little more strength to tighten the adjustment knob. You can see by now that it wouldn't take a rocket scientist to recreate a single-rail railbender. I have seen photos of one home-made railbender with a hardwood base that replaced the idler capstans with stacks of carefully selected washers instead of solid rollers. I have yet to see a home-made two-rail railbender that would replace the Train-Li DuoTrack.
I use the Aristo bender and it does well, the problem is assembling the track, which is a pain. The only drawback is that the last inch or so doesn't bend well due to the location of the rollers on the bender. After drafting this article, I sent preliminary versions to all of the vendors mentioned in this article. Stretch (Darrel Manley), of the California & Oregon Coast Railway sent the following reply.
I try to keep abreast of developments in track, and the owner of Split Jaw Rail Clamps and I share information about rail. Code 332 aluminum rail IS AVAILABLE from California & Oregon Coast Railway and Micro Engineering, as well as code 250 aluminum from the same sources. Micro Engineering offers sectional track in 250 and 332 aluminum and 250 nickle silver, but you must assemble flex track from rail and ties. Llagas Creek rail and ties are not interchangeable with anyone else's rail or ties except Tenmille. PECO (of England) offers a code 250 track system that is not interchangeable with anyone else's product, as far as I know. Sunset Valley's rail and ties are interchangeable with American Model Supply (Accucraft) rail and ties.
C&OC Ry., Llagas Creek, Micro Engineering, Sunset Valley, LGB and AMS all offer the rail and ties separately so disassembly of track to bend rails is NOT needed. Note: Family Garden Trains?, Garden Train Store?, Big Christmas Trains?, BIG Indoor Trains?, and BIG Train Store?
Erg interesant om te lezen is dit de baan waar je de AKLI voor wil gebruiken?Veel bouwplezier!
We gaan starten met deel 03  ALGEMENE STROOMVOORZIENINGVoor dat ik iets kan vertellen over de stroomvoorziening moet ik eerst iets vertellen over het hout frame van mijn moduulbaan. The groove is to provide clearance for the rail's bottom flange, so that the bending force is exerted only on the web between the flange and the top of the rail.
I had already slid it back into the Peco plastic sleeper matrix before I thought of taking a photo.
After that it was very easy to push the rail through the rollers and achieve an even curve. Like most "indoor" railroaders, most outdoor railroaders start with a circle or oval of track sections that include preformed curves. Professional installers who don't want to be called back frequently for minor repairs due to soccer balls, errant toddlers, etc., prefer to use code 332 track for a more "bulletproof" installation. If you want a large switchyard, examine the cost of the turnouts you'll need in both code 332 and 250 before you settle on a track size. It's also less expensive per foot than track made with code 332 track, unless you want to use a lot of turnouts and crossovers and don't feel up to making them yourself.
Some folks complain that it is hard to keep clean, but most folks who put all metal wheels on their rolling stock find that they only need to clean their track a time or two a year. Many of my friends who use track power also use aluminum, though most of them run huge locomotives with lots of power pickup wheels - so I can't vouch 100% for its performance with 4-wheel locomotives. Most track is too stiff to bend very far while the rails are installed in the tie strips, but if you take the rails out and try to bend them by hand, you can't really keep the rails from bending in three dimensions instead of two, a problem that is almost impossible to fix. Three or more appropriately shaped rollers, or "capstans," apply pressure to the web of the rail from two different directions. If you buy "flex track" that had the rails and ties already assembled together, you'll have to slide the rails out of the ties, bend each of them, then slide the rails back into the tie strips.
If the manufacturer's instructions say to do something differently, follow them closely, of course - this is just to fill in the gaps.
Several railbenders, including the Sunset Valley railbender, are made to be mounted in a vise.
On most railbenders, this is some sort of mechanism that allows the center capstan to slide in and out. Train-Li also offers wheelsets to convert a code 332 DuoTrack to a code 250 DuoTrack and vice versa. They have all replied, although some of them have promised to take a closer look and get back with more information later. Both nickle silver and aluminum flex track are offered, separate rail but not ties, as well as some sectional track and one size of turnout. De bouw van deze kleine moduul baan die ik bouwde na het overlijden van mijn vrouw is nog steeds niet klaar. Op de bijgevoegde ontwerp tekeningen zie je ergens bovenaan een weg lopen die 2 sporen kruist links 1x  en rechts 1x. Custom rollers to fit the differing rail benders are available from some manufacturers, so buying a whole new rail bender to change rail sizes might not be mandatory.

There are minor exceptions, like Maerklin and their code 205(?) stainless steel railed sectional and flex track.
All information, data, text, and illustrations on this web site are Copyright (c) 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 by Paul D. Dat heeft vele redenen gehad van uitgaande of je ooit wel gereed komt met een bouw van een modelspoorbaan. Alleen rechts komt de weg nog een derde spoor tegen en ik denk dat ik daar alleen waarschuwing's hekjes etc plaats, ik heb nog een setje van Rail Kees.
Deze modulen bestaan uit twee platen waarbij de bovenste platen opklapbaar zijn zodat de onderkant bereikbaar is voor wissel besturing en andere zaken.
However, bending it to such a tight radius is not easy; you risk kinking the track, or getting a twist along the length of the rails.
This is no longer available as far as I know, but I found a picture of it by googling for it.
The LGB price is better than the last company that offered NS rail in code 332, Istra Metal Products.
Maar in die 2? jaar dat ik nu verder ben is er wel heel veel verandert in de uitvoering zoals ik in het begin gepland had en klopt op diverse plekken de tekst niet meer met de werkelijkheid.
De meeste huisgezinnen gebruikten kolen om te stoken en te koken, en kolen waren vooral de energiebron in de industrie. Het is verder geen doorgaande weg, deze weg mond uit in een kleine fabrieks terrein vaneen kolen handelaar. The image comes from RMweb.uk forum, in the entry about the model layout Claverton Engineering. In fact my article on Planning Your Garden Railroad for High Reliability offers suggestions for doing this on a small loop.
But before we go into too much detail, we'll fill in the gaps about so-called "flexible" track, usually called "flextrack" for short. Sunset Valley also offers a rail bender for code 332 rail and replacement wheel sets to convert a 250 rail bender into a code 332 rail bender and vice versa. Other features to ensure precision and long life include: Stainless steel nuts and bolts, replaceable bearings, anodized blacked aluminum body, and more. The advantage of trying something like this is that it would cost very little to experiment with (except for any rails you ruined in the process, if you weren't careful). De topic die ik schreef was een soort uittreksel van een boekje dat ik schrijf over mijn baan en in vele opzichtenlopen die 2 dingen niet meer in de pas. If for some reason you can't do this, you'll need someone to support the long pieces of rail - otherwise their own weight can cause them to bend vertically of their own accord. For landscapers and professional installers, this will save enough man-hours to pay for itself on the first job. The disadvantage is that you could spend a lot of time "tweaking" a homemade railbender that you "ought to" spend building your railroad. Zo hebben we verlichting in de huizen, kantoor en fabrieks- panden, straatverlichting, fabrieksterrein verlichting, reclame verlichting en zelfs nog flitslichten bijv. Daar ik nu in een flat woon met minder ruimte dan vroeger in ons huis en het fijt dat ik in een rolstoel zit heb ik bedacht om de moduuls zodanig te maken dat ze verrijdbaar en opklapbaar zijn. Ik wil beginnen met de algemene zaken te bespreken in mijn optiek van de verlichting in Franklin land. Niet in alle gebouwen brand licht en als er licht brand dan niet in alle ruimten van een gebouw, dit is een belangrijk uitgangspunt, dat betekend dat in een gebouwde verschillende ruimten gescheiden moeten worden door wanden  of de diverse ramen aan de binnenkant een zwarte laklaag krijgenIn het eerste geval werk je dan met verschillende lichtpunten en in het tweede geval werk je met een lichtpunt, de keuze is afhankelijk van hoe het bouwwerk is uitgevoerd en hoe groot de oppervlakte van het gebouw is. Bij meerdere lichtpunten zou je ook kunnen kiezen voor gescheiden stroomtoevoer die apart geschakeld kunnen worden. Elk gebouw krijgt bij mij in principe een stroom toevoer die ik door pen en gat verbinding koppel aan de aan de onderkant vaste aansluitpunten. Tevens gebruik ik wissels van het zelfde merk aangedreven door FULGUREX onder aandrijvingen, deze maken trouwens best wel lawaai daar moet ik nog eens wat op verzinnen maar dat is voor later.
Nou dat verzinnen is uitgemond in de aanschaf van nieuwe wissel aandrijvingen van het merk COBALT bijna geruisloos en heel makkelijk te plaatsen en te bedraden. Sporen in een rangeer gebied, wat in mijn diorama het geval is hebben een ander uiterlijk en afstand van de bielsen onderling.Met een mesje haal ik een groot gedeelte van de bielsen uit de bestaande mat en schuif de overgebleven bielsen op een zodanige afstand dat beter over een komt met de werkelijkheid in een rangeer gebied. Vervolgens is het zaak de rails en bielsen te kleuren, dit probeer ik te doen met mijn airbrusch verfspuit, voor mij nog een hele uitdaging want ik heb nog nooit met een dergelijk apparaat gewerkt. Op mijn beide modulen zal een groot deel van het railplan ingebed worden in een bestrating van geplaveide delen van een straat, binnenplaats etc. Een groot deel in het haven gebied zal met Belgische klinkers uitgevoerd worden.In fabriekshallen zal het spoor ingebed worden tussen stelconplaten, dit zijn betonnen platen vierkant of rechthoekig van vorm. Gemaakt met het programma Excel strakke lijnen en symbolen tevens heb ik de hart kruisjes aangegeven waar de diverse schakelaars zouden komen plus hier en daar de nodige tekst erbij, vervolgens deze lay-out op schaal uit geprint. Op de rand van het moduul of in mijn geval opklapbaar deel wordt de rails zowel rechts als links van de overgang voorzien van een plaatje pertinax met koperlaag. Deze print met klein stukje plakband vast gezet op mijn schakelbord van een stuk wit pertinax daarna met een automatische slag centerpunt de kruisjes doorgeslagen op het pertinax. Je haalt over de totale lengte van het stuk pertinax de bielzen weg en de spoorstaven soldeer je vast op het koperlaagje. Vervolgens de gaten geboord in het pertinax met een klein kolomboor machientje en dezelfde gaten in de lay-out gemaakt met holpijpen, nadat de schakelaars gemonteerd zijn kon de lay-out over de schakelaars heen gelegd worden en zie daar een mooi strak schakelbordje.Waarom deze methode als er een verandering komt in het rail plan dan hoef ik alleen de lay-out te wijzigen met misschien een paar wijzigingen in het pertinax deel en ik kan de lay-out zo weer over de schakelaars heen leggen zonder dat ik alle schakelaars de bedrading moet los halen en mijn belijning blijft altijd strak en een lijn is op de PC makkelijker te wijzigen dan in gegrafeerde lijnen in het pertinax terwijl een gat erbij of een gat dicht maken is makkelijker uit eigen ervaring ondervonden, want door diverse oorzaken is het rail plan toch weer gewijzigd. Hierna slijp je de railstaven door precies op de scheiding van de twee modulen, hierna wordt aan een kant het koperplaatje opgeschoven zodat de scheiding tussen de twee tafel delen zo klein mogelijk is (Dit is heel belangrijk voor een goede overgang zonder ontsporingen) Zowel links als rechts dienen nu een draadje gesoldeerd te worden aan de railstaaf die aan de onderkant doormiddel van een tweepolige stekker aan elkaar verbonden worden. Dit kon ik  doen omdat de stukken rail op het vaste deel kort waren zodat alles in z?n geheel mee kon klappen maar hierdoor wel een betere overgang en geen kans op storing geeft.

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