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After finishing the work on the 1033 and then the 6026W tender, it was time to dig into the big project. When it does come free, you'll get to see all of that old pellet material caking the bottom.
I soldered the original power lead to the new resistor, and then wrapped the other leg around the smoker frame. After a quick walk through with the oil bottle on all of the axles and wheels, it was time to reassemble. To accomplish better smoking I decided to replace both the heating resistor and add diodes to reduce the current going to the motor.
I decided to go ahead and convert to liquid smoke, and while I had it apart to give it a good once over.

Note: a great way to make sure you don't scratch the metal as you're manipulating it is to wrap each jaw of your pliers in tape.
I broke out the pipe cleaners and went to work cleaning out all of the old oil, grease and accumulated funk.
It's still held in place by the wire to the bulb, but there isn't any reason to remove that wire.
Incredibly so - I now have to use a fan in the train room so the smoke doesn't force me out. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers. In those you have to drift out a pin, with the 2055 you just unscrew at 4 points and remove the rear trucks.

When I picked it up I did the liquid smoke conversion, rebuild the e-unit and generally cleaned everything up.
As you'll see I still need to add cork roadbed to get the track height to match the O22 switches. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois).
If you stick your screwdriver in the center chimney hole and pry it will eventually break free.

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