Model rail track weathering occurs,miniature train sets 60052,ho scale construction vehicles wiki - Easy Way

I freely admit that I used to kind of pooh-pooh the idea of track weathering, putting it in the realm of the over-detail-obsessed zealot (sorry if that offends anyone). Amazing how a little weathering can make a code 100 rail look a little smaller isn't it. Since I am still laying track on parts of my new layout,  I tend to paint the track prior to installation. I fell in love with painted, (weathered rail), the moment I saw it on a friends layout a while back.
Also as I weather rail as you, I will have weathered black and rust on a pallet to occasionally dip into and alter the color. You may be surprised at the number of interesting ( and otherwise un-viewable) scenes which are offered by a digital camera.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
I've recently been weathering a few alcos with acrylic paints available for military modellers.
I like to use acrylic paint, since it is easily thinned down with water, dries quickly and any mistakes can be removed easily by either rubbing off or making it wet again with a brush. I generally paint the chassis and frames first, followed by paint washes over the hood and cab after all detail parts have been applied, before assembling the hood to the chassis and drybrushing. Next I cover the cab and hood with a wash the consistency of ink, using the same muddy colour and a slightly thicker wash for the walkway, steps and pilots. Since we're working in small scales and modelling indoors (usually) we have to cheat a bit when it comes to weathering a loco or freight car, to make it appear 'right'. As a general rule, I make recesses darker - door seams, joints between wooden boards and metal sheets, etc. Once the recesses are painted, I clean up the main body colour, before adding a lighter colour to the raised areas - rivets, pipeworh, etc. The overall effect is to add some depth to the loco shell (military modellers do this as well). On trucks and fuel tanks, I paint everything muddy to simulate track dirt, before adding the dark washes and light drybrushing, as above. It's at least a "haven't got round to getting an air brush yet" thing and, as it works well and there's always new CNW locos to get it delays getting the airbrush. Sunderland - soon to become a satellite of Ireland, if the footie team's anything to go by.
I finished off the locos with some brown and black pastel chalks on the walkways and trucks, but deliberately haven't sealed it.
I have to agree with you about acrylic paints, I've used them on everthing, they have a multitude of uses and hundreds of colours and the price is right, a mmost versatile tool in weathering. As one who had asked you to share some of your "secrets", I just wanted to add my thanks for your post.
Because of non-railroad abuse of the site, new members MUST use their first names (at least) to join NO EXCEPTIONS! So, I realize this is mostly off topic -- unfortunately, until I start building terrain, I'm not going to be doing much that's totally on topic -- but it does include some HO track. Parts of this bulletin board may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. I'm thinking about putting in a small rail-served and rail-used scrap yard on my modern-era layout.

My layout is late Transition Era, but there are common features to scrap yards across the years.
I wouldn't think two tracks are necessary, but more is always better if you have the space.
One thing that's a marker of a scarp yard to me is a crane of some sort to load the metal into gons.
The high cab on the excavator is pretty important, so the operator can see down into the car and the truck. Not sure I recall seeing one, but I might include a small beat-up camper trailer for the nightwatchman, or maybe some big dogs.
My scrap yard (Reggie’s Junk Yard) fills an unused area inside a curve on the layout, and it provides loads of scrap to be moved to the steel mill. These days, modern scrap yards make it very clear that they know exactly what rail road related items look like, and that anyone bringing in any RR related scrap items will be prosecuted. There's usually a shed building where the smaller scale is, and they keep the pricier stuff in it.
By the way I have saved a LOT of money buying metals from scrap dealers, anything from diamond plate aluminum remnants, angle iron, pipe, and machinable aluminum and brass.
Post some pics if you can, we all love pics!  Before, during and after construction are great! This experiement was done with just a scrap piece of track I ahd laying around, I'm not going anywhere near the layout with this at this point!  I'm having a heckuva time trying to get my trackwork bulletproof Ii've dropped more feeders than I ever thought possible) but I'm still getting herky-jerky locomotives at times.
I like to also take a time-consuming but rewarding step I first saw in a Bill Darnaby article on laying flextrack in the November 1997 Model Railroader. I'm at a point now that I have power fed to every single piece of flex track (in other words, there is no place that a rail joiner needs to provide power to another rail) and every turnout has power fed to each continuous rail in the turnout.
Bachmann EZ-Track has never been known for winning beauty contests but I did the best with mine that I could.
When applied to a building the edge is overlapped so that what shows is 24" wide by however long.
After reading your question, I went out and counted the ridges on the last sheet iron I bought. I received several requests for a 'how to', so here is my method for dirtying down locos and freight cars. Prototype weathering is the result of natural events that puts the dirt and rust in certain places for specific reasons.
We "colonists" appreciate your time and efforts in making our modeling easier and more rewarding. Items made from mostly aluminum that are not pure aluminum  Anything that has steel fasteners still in it, for example, or other materials.
Fences, which are always high,  can be made of corrugated or other metal roofing material.
This involves snipping the connections between ties on the underside of the track, cutting away and removing some ties, and then re-spacing the remaining ties with some slight variation. I haven't yet tried it on any huge sections of layout, so I'm not sure if I'll have the patience to carry it through. The technique was straightforward enough: holding the brush end horizontally, make one long steady stroke along the side of the rail, reverse direction to get full coverage, then reverse again.
You get a lot of pop for a realtively small investment of time and effort, and I heartily recommend giving it a try.

The sheet iron (that is painted) used in most modern steel buildings is 36" wide by however long you want it. I have not been able to articulate what goes where, and thus my work tends to look random, and it is never random in real life. The bins are usually beat up pretty well, the ground is often dirt, and that can be rough and dusty, big puddles in rainy season, ruts. Once I rip everything out, (ugggh!) and redo it, I know I will have better electrical continuity.
For cleaning track (if you find that it's a constant battle for you), I suggest what Dave Ramos and I use, which is a combination of Centerline's track cleaning roller car, and one of the Walther's Train line old-school pad-under-boxcar cars. The work progressed easily and quickly, in spite of multiple interruptions from the television, which forced me, against my will, to repeatedly stop and watch football . Once the panels are applied, each starts to weather independently of the other, thus each can be a different shade. The equipment is well used, scratched up, dusty, dirty, often converted from other uses. Works good for us, but there are so many other cars out there that work as well, or maybe even better.
So could you guys please give me some real detailed way of doing this cause I am blind, with pics if possible. There are specialized scrap yard machines that look like excavators but have longer booms, elevated cabs, and a few other specialized features.
I gave the track and turnouts light coats with the points thrown to protect the far side of the stock rails when painting. Generally the rows are consistent but the individual corrugated sheets were inconsistent in the way they fit together, thus showing some vertical seams here and there.
I once watched one of those throw a full sized class 8 tandem rear axle Freightliner around like a Tonka! I use Peco turnouts and even though I solder feeders to the point rails, I still wanted to make sure that the contacts could connect properly, at least until they wear out.
It took a long time to clean to track in the areas that were going to connect to my feeders, but the effort was worth it in the end.
For instance, for a non painted building, take your basic silver and make up three shades in three small containers.
You don't even have to save the paint once mixed and used because the more variation, the better. Try not to paint the same shade next to each other although you may have to in some places. Once you have the building painted and it is dry, if you want some rust, dry brush some roof brown on some of the panels at random. The best technique that I have found is paint them with the brush stroke from the bottom up.

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