Model railroader john allen qmul,new york city subway news today 7pm,new york city opera form 990 - Reviews

Hi 60YOKID: Uh, I believe Stein used ca, (circa, 1960, means about 1960), not capitalized Ca. The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
In the 20 -22 November edition of Weekend Photo Fun one of my photos depicted a track cleaning car I made for the local club and Allen of the Black River Valley RR asked what method I used.
For those with access to the Model Railroader Archives on page 104 of the April 1988 issue there is an article by Lou Sassi on how he made his. I use HO Athearn BB box cars as I like the idea of the nails locating in the steel weight strip, I am lead to believe that some builders have fitted metal bearings into plastic floored cars; and I also paint the top and side of the pads with rattle can flat black.
Others have fitted springs between the pad and freight car floor or placed a small weight on the pad but believing in the KISS principle I find they do a good job as they are. I tweaked a box car shell to drop over the CMX tank car just to change it's look and remind me of the Great John Allen.
Anyone who has been a member of a model railroad club soon realized that a way was needed to identify ones' own equipment. Have used them for so many years, I actually had to replace the masonite pads due do being worn down so thin ! Dave: I googled clout nails, and they were listed as roofing felt nails, with prices quoted in US dollars. Yes Ed is correct, who owns which of the half dozen or so identically numbered Athearn BB Santa Fe Boxcars, on the Club layout at one time can be problematic at the best of times.
It comes as no real surprise but it is good to confirm that others have had similar satisfaction with what is a simple but clever item. Many years ago, I used to attend quarterly train show events hosted by the northern california chapter of the NMRA - I think! Anyway, I'd like to recreate in n-scale the switching layout that was used for this contest.
This was an article from Model Railroader that I've seen built at a Sunrise Trail Division meet. The windows were made with a technical pen on slide covers that I had cut with a diamond tip scriber.. I have many of these castings from Rick and Mary and the detail is astounding and, I believe, an excellent value. I looked at some other engine house builds and got really inspired so I got busy right away, the kit had some rather nice castings which I added with some from the scrap box.
As for the interior, I'm not seeing the sort of stud wall construction that would seem to go with the exterior wood framed walls.
The other thing that seems to be missing is any sort of interior framing detail around the windows. Alternately, if you want to use LEDs, Ngineering sells all the components and bending jigs to form the goose necks out of aluminum tube. Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  You definatly have some skill and you pen work is right on, remember those from architecture class, not an easy tool to use and get right! I built my base benchwork (L-girder) last weekend and now just have to come up with a track plan for it.
I've been researching a lot and really like the Cactus Valley plan that was featured in MRR a few years back.

Another plan I like is the Granite Gorge layout, but from what I've read this is really not a good plan for a first timer. I would love to be able to run two trains continuously, one passenger and one freight or industry but I think the most important thing for me is to have a plan that I can realistically complete, and have minimum to no derailments.
All that is necessary is to pull the layout away from the far wall enough that you can get down that side of the layout. If I can suggest, it looks like you have left a generous amount of space between the right wall and the benchwork. Keep in mind that the benchwork only has to be accessable on three sides, so the left side can stay against the wall.
November 2012 MR features a number of 4 by 8 layouts which may fit your bill much better than the Cactus Valley RR.
The others all posted some great plans and info but I saw the Fender amp, looks like the Princeton Reverb,great old amp what do you play?
Larger clubs soon needed additional colors, or combinations thereof to accommodate the growing number of members.
However looking at the Lowes website, (no we don’t have Lowes here), I see drywall nails are serrated right along the shank.
I started with a Micro Trains N scale boxcar, and added a Masonite slider glued to a couple of nails similar to what was described above. If you build it as close as possible, using the same radii curves as the HO version, it wouldn't be horribly cramped, and should work out nicely.
I know it's due to the techniques he had available to him back then, but I want to copy it as well. One of the resaons I suggest some of these is because the work benches and shelves are pretty linear so would fit along the walls and down the center of the shed.
Perhaps I'm missing something, but even with the post and beam structure there would have to be something to nail the exterior cladding to between the posts. After a lot of internal struggle, I decided to go with a 5x8 rather than an around the room in my space. Ideally it would be 2 trains operating continuously, but I'd also be happy to have one train run continuous, while another train does a short point-point ops movement. Is your benchwork located against the wall permanently or will it be moved into open space?
You´d have to change the single-line track into double track all the way, which would make the layout look like a bowl of spaghetti - even more than it already does. It may not be as fancy as the Cactus Valley RR in terms of scenery, but it offers ops for two people.
No, the layout is not fastened to the wall and when operating and working on it I will pull it away from the walls so I can walk around. The scenic divider down the middle will make appear the layout much larger and gives it two different faces. No grades and broader radii than the Cactus Valley mean it might be easier to build and operate reliably (both plans use flextrack).
One Peco curved turnout, The rest are Peco medium (main to siding, main to staging), and Peco small (to spurs). I see the appeal of cuyama's plans but was hoping I could do something that had a crossover somewhere.

A list of these color codes was maintained so that owners could be mated with their equipment when necessary.
Anyway, I am the proud owner of an insulator award for one whose brain is insulated from his hands. With the bonus of a lot more scenery space because the track itself wouldn;t take up as much space. Grades are pretty stiff, and with the tight curves, you may find it a challenge for either of your engines to pull a decent train through those curves with the grades. Goose neck lamps can be made very easily using 0603 or 0402 LEDs, or Miniatronics 1.5 V bulbs. To form the goose necks I simply CA the two wires together, let it dry, and then use my Kadee coupler pin pliers to form the bends.
I chose 5x8 because I could afford the extra foot and thought it could give me a bit more opportunity than a standard 4x8. If it is going to stay against the wall, how will you reach the back of the layout when (not if) you have a derailment. You could temporarily pull the benchwork further from the wall to make construction easier and then move it closer when things are done. You can cut down the vertical clearance, staying well over N scale minimums but lower than the HO requirements, to lessen the grade a bit.
I would suggest measuring the spacing on the exterior nail marks and adding an interior stud wall structure based on the nail mark positions.
Also I haven't fastened the joists to the girders yet because I want to figure out my track plan first.
I guess I could take one of the other plans and have a track go down or up slightly to give the effect, but without having it actually crossover anywhere. The track was supposed to be attached directly to them, but I used them as supports for deck girders etc. I also need to add the long-way cross braces as well.One of the things I like about this Cactus Valley layout is that it has a pretty long main line for a small plan. This allows the cleaning pad to float under the boxcar but I thought it might clean better with a little more pressure on the rails. I'm not sure I totally understand what people mean actually when they talk about operations. If you have some sort of industry, does this mean that you just go back and forth from the industry to another part of the layout to simulate operation?
I also don't think I would be interested in doing extensive yard switching ever, other than maybe swapping out one locomotive for another.
With my kids I think it would be most fun to just be able to give each of them a controller and let them control the trains going around, switch up locos, etc.

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