Model railway coach lighting kits sale,train sets toy,hobby stores 33324 - Tips For You

Commercially available Flicker Free (Supercaps or Stay Alive) circuits are good for driving a chain of LED's if you hard wire these or use the manufacturers PCB. Unfortunately they cannot drive the Flexible LED strips which use SMD 3528 or 5050 LED's and are rated at 12V. Also driving Flexible LED strips at full brilliance with 12V is non-protypical and too bright. I found that a 4700uF capacitor works best to remove the flicker due to dirty track contacts or going over switch points or trouble spots or insulated block sections, but if you want the cars to have a gradually dimming effect till the lights go out, I suggest using a 10000uF capacitor which will give a drain timing of just over a minute when the power is removed from a block.
Though I designed the circuit primarily for DCC application, it works with traditional analog DC too.
On Saturday, at the Museum, we were discussing exactly this application with exactly these LED strips. Hi All,I thought I would share something that was brought to my attention which I thought was a great product. I have an idea for pickups; I'll take a picture of the pickups on my Mogul and see what you think.
I also have an alternative which I didn't use owing to the fact that I would have had to buy it ( A?3 for 2 mtrs) but as you all know I'm a cheapskate. You know how there is a flicker of the lights when going across points, well would putting wires into the other set of wheels on the coach solve this?
If anyone trys this lighting method PLEASE let me know how you go with it either in this thread or my other. At the outset of, not only lighting the coaches, but lighting the layout, I was very aware of the risks you mentioned. As many hints and tips are given to use this type of bulb it would seen that it is in common use for their purpose. I've heard too many stories of people getting distracted, leaving a layout unattended, only to come back and find a melted pile of plastic, or WORSE!

The plan is to go down the DCC route - and so will also be taking the opportunity to install DCC decoders. All listings sold via Auction are subject to a 15% Buyer's Premium which will be collected at checkout. Do you ever start something and just when you think it's done it turns out that there is a issue. Have a browse at the blogspot link below, I've written some articles on various topics. I can relate to why you asked the question as I ( and many others I suspect) have been down the same path  you start off with a simple change and that leads to another etc.
I have purchased some very fine wire and refitted to one coach and all seems to be working? These are all designed around an output voltage of 3V, since the supercap is rated for max.
So I use warm white LED's (not the harsh bright white, good for a florescent lamp effect) run them at at 9V to give the soft effect you would normally see in a prototype coach. A 12 LED strip section normally is good for a standard passenger car and these can be cut to suit individual car or wagon lengths, in multiples of 3 LED's.
I do not remove the wheel, as instructed by some manufacturers who sell these ready made coil spring contacts, as it is easy to wind the wire by just popping out the wheel set and winding 10 turns on it very tightly.
Connect the capacitor to the copper pads at the end of the strip (with wires based on where you hide it and watch the polarity) and mount it with double sided foam tape on the roof of the coach or behind something that can't be seen from the cars windows. It is more obvious in DC powered layouts or when using incandescent bulbs instead of LED's. Existing holes and spaces have been used to guide and conceal all wires from the pick ups to the LED strips. It will be connected to the two bare copper contacts you see on the right side of the LED strip (opposite end of the voltage regulator).

If it was DCC you might consider a resistor because DCC can be up to 16V at all times (it's limited to 12V on a digitrax Zephyr, though). I assumed that the flickering of points was due to the small amount of time when one wheel woud not be on an electrofied rail and thus the circuit would not be complete. I have gone to great lengths to ensure that non of the bulbs are in contact with the item they are illuminating that includes the coaches. Meanwhile I will check the article to see if I have stated that the bulb should not touch the roof of the coach and will edit accordingly.
The model has been built by Gerd Schulke and Axel and Gerrit have equipped the vehicle with lighting and driving electronics.
Well I run this train today and as soon as it attempted a corner it resembled the great train crash. My circuit and 12 LED's draw only 22mA current, so nothing gets heated or even warm (plastic safe) to touch. The trick is to maximize the surface area for making the contact, more area, the better conductivity.
The current through the bulb depends solely on the resistance of the bulb and the voltage supplied (which will vary on a DC system from 0 up to about 16V at full speed). A gentle touch on buildings and coaches from time to time when in use confirms that there is no overheating. All my points are mostly in one section then the trains have a good run before they cross them again.

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