Model railway control panel led tv,model cars for sale 1 18 scale models,bachmann king of the rail train set - For Begninners

The only control panel style that I have seen other then the traditional methods is to have the panel embedded directly into the facia. Had I been thinking about it I probably would have included some additional graphics like a Reading logo and so forth. We had thought about it, but the light barriers behind the panel face would have gotten a bit convoluted.
If I do something for my layout, it will probably be in JMRI using PanelPro, with a sceen and mouse instead of an extensive and expensive collection of switches and stuff. Using DCC and with turnouts controlled manually is there even a reason to have control panels anymore?  Of course if you are using powered turnouts a panel might be required but I would think only in yards etc.
Post pictures and information about your own personal model railway layout that is under construction. I love the photo of the lamps, ive been thinking of doing that myself but didnt know how to do it, but now you have solved the mystery lol have you thought about putting a red lamp on the back of a guards van?
I definitely need some people and the scenery is very sterile but at least there's no more MDF showing! The problem is they are unpainted kits but they are cheap so if my paint job was awful it wouldn't be too much money down the drain. Going back , have you still got the helix effect at the other end and did you plan to hide it ??
The trestle bridge did take a while to make and I wish I'd laid the rails directly onto the cross members using Peco chairs and rails. Bought some BRAWA yard lamps from Ebay but other than that have done little to the scenery. I did find this box in the bin at work an thought it would make a better control panel than my first attempt.
Next tasks are to get some backdrops, finish the Pullman table lamps, add some modrock around the bridge at the back and get some figures for the yard before moving on to the village. Excellent photo of the lights, the tracks look brilliant with the light reflecting of them.

Nice looking controllers did you make them from scratchThe main reason for pulling this thread up is, did you ever use the sea foam trees you grew? Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
I drew out the lines and lettering with a drawing program (I used Visio because I have it), and printed it out with a color printer on heavy cardstock paper. That's what I get for being an engineer type, got the technical bits down but left out the rest that would have dressed it up. The only thing I might have on the fascia besides turnout controls will be some occupancy LEDs for my hidden staging tracks so you cna easily tell if a track is open or not without popping off the removable backdrop. Where possible I used Peco electrofrog points (code 100) the theory being that you're most likely to be shunting slowly with the smaller locos that are most likely to stall on points. I used live axle wheel sets and strips of phosphor bonze to pick up the power and then the circuit posted to keep the lamp on when the train stops. Just missed a set of Viessmann park lamps on EBay - outbid by a pound in the dying seconds.
One last thought, the designer of the flickering firelight circuit gave his permission to post on this forum. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). I painted the back piece of plexiglas black after drilling the holes for the switches and LEDs.
That wasn't intended to be permanent anyway, I was planning on putting a masonite fascia on the layout and maybe cutting openings to mount panels like that. Each track hols 2 trains in a serial fashion so I will have two sets of indicators for each track.
The exception was the junction with the main line where the Hornby points could only be replaced with Peco set track (insulfrog) but these have improved running and I've not had any more derailments.
The plan as stated earlier is to cover the baseboard and then phase 2 will be to re-work and add detail.

However, putting lights in coaches and wagons takes time and money and it can cause problems. This (in its simple form and maybe softened slightly) would work well for oil lamps or gas street lamps perhaps. The print will then be sandwiched between two layers of acrylic sheet (Plexiglass) and the positions of the LEDs and toggle switches drilled out; there positions haveing been included in the print out.
For drilling I simply printed out a second copy in black and white and clamped it between the two pieces of plexi, once the holes were drilled I replaced the guide sheet with the nice colored one and poked out the holes. That panel directly connected to Tortoise motors, my overall plan was to have the panel drive LocoIO boards so I could have the option of running the computer with JMRI and disabling local control with the dispatcher having the option to turn it back on, or running the layout in informal mode with the computer off and all turnouts under local contol. I thought of some workers standing around a fire in an old oil drum a bit like picketers do might look good but then thought that they'd just go into one of the huts to warm up.
I bought some Hornby live axle sets (about A?3 for 4) but they are a slightly bigger diameter than the standard Hornby wheels so the coaches run higher.
Not a problem until you go up and down steep inclines then you get derailment problems where a modified coach couples with a standard coach. To the left of the pub at the back I've planned a childrens play area, so I don't want anything too big blocking it from view. Also the Hornby wheels have a narrower running surface than the Markits wheels and were derailing on the Hornby points! It's OK now I've replaced with Peco points (except for the far end where I still get occasional de-railments).

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