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Constant power is supplied to the track and digital signals are sent which require electronic decoders to be fitted to locomotives and other devices to interpret the commands.
Controllers manage operation of locomotives with buttons for additional model features such as lighting and sound. About UsAt Model Trains Online it's our job to help you get the very best from the worlds greatest hobby, serving railway modellers like yourself in over 102 countries worldwide!
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I also have a long run of lights (225 ft!) to install and decided a long time ago to use a similar method. There are several benefits to strip LED lighting that are commented on every time I have an open house.
I've jumped on the LED bandwagon myself so it's great to see your success using them! That said, i would guess my power supply is no longer certified since I cobbled two into one. Yesterdays Mouser order brought the diodes I need for the line out so I should be good to finish my 24V power supply. As my model railroad is built in sections to move every couple of years, I've decided to modify my sections into shadow boxes with LED lighting strips to provide a portable, uniform source of light. I'm not too concerned about what I would call minor variances in light color and the details required for taking good photos.
You can see in the diagram the existing bench work and the overhead structure I plan to build. From an electrical perspective, I spoke with a representative from Flex Fire online about the power supply and dimmer requirements based on my criteria, so I think I'm good there, but I was wondering if there are any glaring holes in the wiring diagram? Before digging into the led light and power issues further, I would suggest you consider mounting the strip(s) at less than a 45 angle (from the horizontal) or at least doing a mock-up to see how the lighting works.
The big question here is how much light do you want (again see comments in Ken R's post).
That is actually not a bad price from a Higher End lighting supplier (with their architectural series costing at least twice as much), but before going with Flex Fire at $119 and 4,595 lumens per 5 m you might want to check out other suppliers.
With these 5630 strips I am measuring over 1400 lux at 0,5 meters and about 700 lux at 1.0 meter. With these 2835 strips I am measuring over 500 lux at 0,5 meters and over 200 lux at 1.0 meters.
Note: When we need to install two strips, we often use a Warm White with a White so that we can adjust the apparent color. I have tested and have installed the LED Wholesalers strips I referenced, and have found them well made and up to specification. You need to be careful with the Waterproof (actually in most cases Water-Resistant) strips especially the Silicone Gel molded strips, as the silicone acts as a lens significantly reshaping the light beam.
When you said I might need to try mounting one of the strips at 0º  did you mean against the valence or against the top of the module? By 0º I was suggesting that the strips may be mounted to the top of the module with the light directed straight down. Below is an intensity plot from a typical surface mount LED showing that most of the light is emitted in a 90º arc (red lines) with the peak energy perpendicular to the surface of the LED.

Typically these strips have 4 wires, a common wire and 3 other wires: one per colour (red, green and blue).
I ordered a set from a supplier in Hong Kong that are SMD5050 Hi-Brightness, 300 LEDS per strip, 4500-5000K. In addition to Alan's postings on his tests, I found a website that seems promising using the LED strips.
Control is achieved by sending a digital signal as well as power down the rails or wirelessly.
We regularly tackle a wide range of railway modelling topics, from baseboard construction to landscaping, track laying to wiring.
There will be 1 x 2 vertical supports near the fascia at either end of each section to avoid a weak cantilever design. For this part of the layout I am looking at wiring 3 LED strips in parallel with a power option to wire 6 LED strips in parallel if the first row isn't bright enough. You may need a lot less power, but to be sure I would mock-up the lighting before installing the final wiring. As noted above the 3528 strips I usually work with are specified at about 130 lumens per foot, and the 5050 strips I am currently working with are specified at a little over 200 lumens per foot. One strip maybe right on the edge of your layout lighting needs, so a second strip could be necessary.
They have almost double the lumens at double the price per foot as the 2835 from LED Wholesailers. Note that the LEDs used on the LED Wholesalers 5630 strip are from the same manufacturer and series Michael Rose used on his custom boards.
One of the strips I have worked with is the 12 Volt Double Density Flexible LED Strip with 600xSMD2833. For some strips we found that the silicone lens broadened and dispersed the light, but with most we found that the lens narrowed the beam significantly.
If most of the light is in a 90º arc, is it centered or closer to one side of the strip?
If the strips are mounted close to the valence a significant amount of light can be reflected and diffused off the back of the valence.
The lens effect of the silicone enclosed strips can further reduce this angle by about 20º. Running power supply lines to both ends of a single strip will resolve the issue however on my strips there is barely a noticeable difference in light output when power is supplied on both ends. These digital signals can control all aspects of the model trains and accessories, including signals, turnouts, lighting, level crossings, cranes, turntables, etc.
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I do not mind the idea of doing some assembly, but soldering a bunch of LED's to boards does not sound like a good use of my hobby time.
That it that is what I am looking for, did you make them or buy them can I get some details on that.
The 280 lumens per foot number is closer to the typical lumens per meter number specified for many 300 LED 3528 strips and still double the specification of many 600 LED 3528 strips. They are currently only listing the Warm White (3100-340 K) as available which is lower than the 4000K - 4500K listed for the Flex Fire strips.

But they are available in Warm White (2800-3100), Neutral White (4100-4500K) and White (6500-7500K). I would likely only need one 5050 strip with less than the power requirement of two 2835 strips and a higher CRI and a 2 year warranty. I have only worked with color and RGB strips from LED World, so I do not have any data on their White strips.
I would also skip the sleeved strips unless you want a diffuse light at significantly reduced intensity (from our measurements about a 20% loss). If it's to one side, is there a way to tell before installation, or is it trial and error?
For museum displays at times we have to get very creative with lighting, and for a few displays we have actually mounted strips to the interior vertical (valence) surface of a display cabinet. I know I could get away with less power but at least I'll have flexibility and expansion capability later.
If you end up using multiple strips you may get better results with one of more strips mounted horizontally (0º). If the strips do not actually produce the 280 lumens, you may need that extra power and wiring. Higher performance would mean needing one strip instead of two and saving money (or only spending a little more for a higher quality product, instead of double). Their 5050 strip looks better than the 3528 but it will require me to spend a lot more on a power source. For some museum displays we originally purchased some High End Architectural strips from a reputable lighting dealer and were greatly disappointed in there performance and quality. The illustration(s) show how we have typically mounted strips to better direct and distribute the light. Note that if the inside of the valence is reflective (I have used gloss white paint and even aluminum foil), the light from flat mounted LEDs will reflect off of the inside of the valence distributing the light. The dealer did take the strips back and found some inexpensive strips which actually out perform the expensive strips. Before installing LEDs in displays we often tape or tie-wrap strips to thin wood strips and play with various possible configurations. If you purchased the RGB (color adjustable) ones, you would wire the R,G,B individually to control the colors. Other than sale items both LED World and LED Wholesalers have provided good service readily accepting product returns.
We have also, due to the directionallity and color of the LEDs, installed multiple strips (including color, color adjustable and adjustable RGB strips) to get required effect(s). But you purchased white, so all three are the same color, so no need to wire them individually.

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