Model railway yard ballast,green toys train set youtube,bachmann g scale davenport,new york city department of corrections officer - 2016 Feature

06.07.2014
Not wanting to experiment on the actual layout, I glued a length of flextrack I had on hand to some plywood to test with. So far, the results I have go look to me like dried mud, which may not be all that far from the reality of the terminal, but not sure if I want to use that for the final look.
Here are some examples (from 3 years ago when I first tried this out) of my sanded tile grout for ballast experiments.
I'm lucky to live so close to Hawarth, it makes it easy and quick to get somewhere to research. Being away from home for a night, I spent some time drawing up what the overall look of Pig Hill Yard will be. I thought about joining two sides of the Hill with an occupation bridge with farm track over it to give a good visual entrance to the yard proper. Mike, Looking very good.  How did you produce your coloured trackplan in your last post, and how did you produce the full-size trackplan in your 8th post? I wanted something simple and not blue sky, so went for how the sky usually looks round here. 2- and 4- year old hands are not good with N-Gauge models, and I started to realise that if Tedderton was to survive, those hands would need to have something a little larger to poke.
The inglenook itself is sound but I can't see the point (no pun intended) in having a kick back siding as it can't be used if anything else is standing on the other siding. If you want the extra siding providing it is for a loco shed, my suggestion would be to have the kick back before the first point from the left and not off one of the sidings.
Thanks Nick, I did think about that siding, and my thoughts were along these lines: I want a loco shed because I like the new Scalescenes Diesel shed. Need to put the base of the bridge and embankment in place now then give the whole thing a coat of primer and paint.
Rightly or wrongly (I am sure you'll correct me if the latter), I am going to put the bridge abutments and the bridge itself on before I lay the track. Next, I will varnish the baseboard and then form the valley and embankment before laying the track.
Generaaly you'll find that most branchline railway yards or BLTs won't necessarily have a shoulder of ballast under the track. I was able to get a good start on scenery this past weekend including laying down a base of ground foam as well as weathering and ballasting the yard tracks.
How did you achieve the rough-edged sleepers in the first pic, foreground track, sleepers to the right of centre?
The Track is ME code 83 flextrack and I just hacked and slashed it with a good ol trusty Xacto blade. Basically I cut a channel through the Woodland Scenics track bed and under the interfering trackage. Using a product called NeoLube (available from Micro-Mark), I blackened the brass and set it in place.
Then using a drill & tap set, I was able to attach the brass tubing to the track throw tie and the ground throw using 00-90 screws. I glued the ground throw down with a tiny dab of glue and held it in place with a couple of track spikes until the glue dried for 24 hours. So what I've done is added a length of square brass tubing to the end of the throw arm. It's basically the same concept as the RC plane pushrods, but a lot smaller and cheaper. They are too lightweight, get blown, flung, and ticked around the layout and are affected by static electricity. The natural rock is much easier to work with, but the color changes are very disappointing. It may be my monitor but that color shift is really extreme and shows signs of some gloss that is missing from the original loose material. I tried WS Fine ballast on the sidings and wish I hadn't, way to fine for HO even for sidings.
Another issue I have had with AZ, the last 2 bags were quite dusty and made a horrible looking mess in places. Post pictures and information about your own personal model railway layout that is under construction.
ShareThisSitting doing pretty much nothing, so I'm going to take the opportunity to start WPF taking us into October. The Plexiglas fronts need tools to remove them so access will take some involvement by the accessee or if you prefer Leroyer.
Not quite snow white former KCS SD40-2 CP #670 add yet another example to the incredible variety of locomotive types and paint schemes.


The one thing that has stopped me from this application is that when tiling grout needs to be worked to be looking and functioning at it's best.
Thank you for the tip re the panel image - I will bear that in mind and use something more hefty. The main constraint I have is that it needs to have a hill on it, and it needs to be populated with pigs.
Remember to cut the front fascia board to the shape of the hill and valley and it will look fab. If it comes out a quarter as good as your excellent work, I will consider myself very satisfied indeed. I've picked up some Woodland Scenics 'fine cinders' to mix with the fine light grey ballast, and I intend to increase the proportion as we move into the yard from the head shunt. Big Sister was on full sticking duty as we applied 11 A4 sheets of grey clouds to the back scene.
We did this by fixing the 1:1 trackplan to the top with sticky tape and then banging panel pins through the centreline. It's a simple three-siding Inglenook design for shunting, with a little kick-back to place a small shed. Without a run round any wagons shunted to and from the kick back will be at the wrong end of the loco. Carpentry is definitely not a skill I possess, but I'm quite pleased with this one made from ply cut up to my template by the local timber merchant. No kick back, and a slight (3 degrees) curve in the sidings which I think adds a bit of interest as well as getting the sidings over towards the back a little bit. I won't go all this way with the actual track - just far enough to get the longest train of 5 or 3 wagons onto the siding whilst not being long enough for 6 or 4 as per the Inglenook rules.
I want to get the landscape formed before laying the track itself, and I want to form the slope around the abutments so they appear embedded within them. Abutments are from Scalescenes, and the plate girders are a Wills kit with Plastruct H beams underneath the deck.
The section of track left of the bridge, I would only use a strip of cork, no wider than the sleepers, to allow for the shouldered effect.
Not counting the drying time for the NeoLube, this took me probably less than 10 minutes per switch.
The NeoLube has a slick finish so I'm not too worried about trouble with the travel of the throw. This is an N scale scratchbuilt model of a dilapidated wagon long out of service on the Victorian Railways (Australia) now rusting away in a weed covered yard in Melbourne. Some boards were added to the ramp, more coal and coal dust was added around the tipple and the ramp, and a small office was added to the scene.
In my youth I had a OO scale layout constructed with the help of Dad, but with no space available at the moment I decided to limit myself to a box file layout as a practice piece and to try my hand in N gauge. I had planned to have the main running line raised slightly and a ramped access to the loco yard just to add a bit of interest. However ballasting has never been a strong suit so I approached the task with some trepidation.
I still have two models to finish that go with the eight I have already done for the case for our open house tomorrow. This seems to be in conflict with the more traditional ballast technique of soaking and leaving alone. If it is just for a loco shed then the siding feeding the kick back will have to be kept clear to run a loco in and out. I wanted it towards the middle of the board so I have space for the single track to go over a river. It's wonky in places underneath, but the top is sturdy, level, and smooth, so I'm chuffed with it! As I said before, wood and I don't get on, so it took a long time to get the shape right and the height right. This seems like it would be a more sensible way round, and it also means I can put off spending more money for a few weeks! This is the first time I've tried to paint anything with rust, and I erred on the 'less is more' approach when dry brushing.
I bought one of those very fine screened brass looking coffee filters and have been pouring the AZ ballast into it and shaking it for about 30 seconds to get the dust out. This was used as fill material on the GN mainline here, and as fill & roadbed material on the branch lines. Although I have not tried N scale before, after the OO scale layout I had built a OO9 layout which used several N gauge locos, etc for kits.


I reviewed the subject using the forums here and then I sprinkled ballast around and spread it using an old paint brush.
Looks like you have a couple of del prado schools class locos on there and a flieschmann 0-4-0 posing as a B4? I could not get out to the Mid-Atlantic RPM meet with the layout so I will do some virtual railfanning on here. The yellow signs may be familiar to some folks that have read my blog and they are from one of our sponsors.
The Reefer is an awesome example what my Friend Gary Christensen are able to do with a blank white Car. The tip embedded in your post re using the interior of washing powder boxes comes just a little too late! You can use it to create exact radii smooth curves, and can print out at a scale of 1:1 which is going to help immensely when laying the track. And I thought it may add a bit to the puzzle element to have to clear the top siding to get the loco back to the shed at the end.
But it's seamless from the main baseboard across the valley and onto the embankment at the end. I used brass and steel initially, and had to replace several turnout controls when they rusted tight after applying plastercloth and ballast.
The 009 layout (or parts of it) still exist in my parents loft and so does a fair amount of spares.
It was at this point that I discovered that the raised mainline made the clearance too tight on the openings of the arches. I then used diluted PVA to hold the ballast in place however……the paper ballast underneath wasn’t the best surface to apply the ballast to and despite masking the tarmac area in the factory yard some PVA still bled through.
This was originally a Kato Pocket Line unpowered 0-4-0 locomotive which came with a powered coach.I modified the basic locomotive by cutting some extra parts off, filing the smokebox down and drilling an extra couple of windows in the cab.
I accept that it is not prototypical, but I think that having it where it is males it right for me. So the N gauge spares bucket was dug out and provided a few scrap bodies and chassis with which to play around.
So I removed the raised section and settled on having a level track running through at the back. Although the change in colour is noticeable isn’t too bad in real life and so I decided to live with the result.
My model is representing the B4s during the war years when the open cab was plated over and they ended up with three cab windows on the front and rear. The buildings are represented by simple rectangles, but which are measured to the exact dimensions given on the Scalescenes website. I had also purchased a couple of bits of track, and a couple of coaches and an old Farish Merchant Navy from a steam fair.
I displayed the semi complete box file at the Shuttleworth Collection Scale Model Exhibition in 2012 and received some favourable comments. Side tanks and boiler fittings were made from plasticard and filler.The finished B4 was then painted and fitted with home made decals to represent ‘Normandy’In the final photo you can also see my representation of third rail, it is pretty crude being made from plastruct rails glued to small offcuts of plastic rod alongside standard flexitrack. Once I know everything is going to work the way I want it to I paint and weather the ties and rail. All of these items required a bit of work, but I thought that it would be a good learning experience trying to put everything right!I played around with a few designs but decided on a fairly straight forward layout to fit the box file and purchased a few ready to plant buildings to populate it quickly. I then transferred the plan to Peco settrack and marked the positions on the box file before cutting the first entrances for the track.With the openings cut and painted I cut some 5mm foam board as a base and laid the track loosely on it. I had found a textured paper in my local art shop which I thought might serve as ballast and save a bit of effort and so placed this under the track to see how it looked.I had planned on printing out the background and walls to decorate the edges of the boxfile. The chassis has been bodged about a bit to now become an 0-6-2 and the body has been repainted and positioned roughly on top (currently with blu-tak – I’m not sure how to go about a more permanent solution) to make an LBSCR E5(ish). I could not get the sizes of the walls to look right so in the end I gave up and created some walls out of two layers of brick plastic sheet.
Although not quite accurate, if you squint it’s not too bad, although the close ups can be a bit cruel! It still needs another coat of paint and the track needs ballast but that will have to wait until after the show.



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