N scale dcc installed locomotives videos,chicago public transportation bus schedule,thomas wooden railway table nz - Review

Almost nothing on a model railroad grabs your attention more than seeing a working Mars light on a locomotive as it comes down the track. 1) In my opinion, lamps create a better range of light, more smoothly ramping brightness to darkness, for simulating MARS lights. 4) Lamps and resistors can produce more heat so use caution or the engine shell can be damaged. As you can see, LED’s longer life and better consistency across multiple DCC systems has lead me to use them more in my new installations. Drop in decoders are a little different but still require resistors with the Miniatronics lamps since the ones on the board are the wrong value. One last step before inserting the lamps into the headlight housings is to install a bezel.
The only missing piece of the MARS light puzzle is to now program the decoder CV’s to use the MARS function. View DetailsStarting in 1946, 41 of the M1a's received further improvements by increasing the boiler pressure and adding circulators to the firebox.
Well, except for maybe several locomotives with Mars lights beaming, on adjacent yard tracks ready to head out on the mainline.
It’s quite a simple matter to use the lighting functions available on most decoders to set up a Mars light and other effects. Using the correct resistor and turning off lights when the engine is idle will greatly help extend lamp life, but be warned that you will need to replace the lamps at some point in time.
In other words, lamps that look fine on one DCC system may burn brighter or dimmer on another system. In practice, since I still like the look of the MARS effect with lamps, I have found it useful to use a combination of both methods when I run back to back cab units (for example a set of A-B-A F-7’s). According to my calculations, the correct resistance on my Digitrax system should be 350 ohms.

For example, on the Digitrax DN163I1c decoder for Intermountain F3 and F7 units, instead of soldering the resistor lead to FOF+ and FOR+, it must be soldered behind the resistor and not to the pad in front of it. This will vary depending on the brand of decoder you use and which housing you want for the MARS light and which is the headlight. I prefer to use TCS decoders because they seem to work best when using LED’s for MARS lights and for LED dimming.
Rail joiners are made of soft metal and can be difficult to use if you are not experienced with them. One lead of the lamp is then connected to the resistor while the other lead is wired to the blue wire, which is the common for both lamps. Note that the LED's can be mounted on the mechanism but they must be exactly behind the shell headlight openings.
I fully believe that adding the lighting effects puts the icing on the cake and will definitely set apart your cab units from the rest of the crowd.
Both scales feature laser sharp painting and lettering, etched metal details and wire grab irons Non-Sound models will have a factory installed DCC decoder capable of operating on analog DC or DCC.
This way, I’m covered if a lamp burns out at a train show or I run on another DCC system and the lamps are too dim or too bright. I buy the 10 piece package item # 18-001-10 since it’s more economical and I like to have some spare lamps around. This is close enough and you might have to go up or down in value to adjust the bulb brightness to your liking. The bezels are glued inside the headlight housings on the shell and hold the lamps in place. Programming these effects on all the different brands of decoders is beyond the scope of this article.
Remember to leave some excess wire on the lamp leads to make it easier to insert the lamps into the bezels.

I would highly recommend using a program such as JMRI Decoder Pro to set up the lighting functions. The LED’s I use are their N1022 Super-incandescent 2 x3 LED’s and also N1018 Micro Super-incandescent LED. The LED’s are pretty bright and I haven’t found it necessary to install the bezels that I use with the lamps.
A better option is to order on-line from Mouser as they have a better selection of resistor values.
Decoder Pro not only makes it easy to set the correct CV’s for the lighting functions you want but it also allows you to experiment and try different effects almost effortlessly. The lamps may have to be pushed back into the bezel slightly after the shell is installed so they don’t protrude too far out of the shell. This works well but requires painting all sides of the LED’s with some black paint to prevent light leakage into the cab.
They should stay put without any adhesive especially since the shell should remain removable in case of any mechanical trouble or to easily replace a burned out lamp. Prewired LED’s can be purchased from Richmond Controls if you aren’t comfortable soldering the magnet wire to the small LED’s. Note that on Kato F units I had to grind away some of the frame that was directly behind the lower headlight to allow enough clearance for the lamp to be adjusted once it was inside the bezel. This isn’t much of a problem since the magnet wires are very thin and can be tucked into the shell.

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