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Use the form below to delete this a??a??a?•a??a?‰a??a?‚a?‹a?™a??a?„ Portable Ultrasonic Flowmeter UFP 20 image from our index. Use the form below to delete this Instructables Exploring Workshop Cardboard Featured image from our index. When you ask Scott about doing the high headlight smokebox front you can add me in as being interested in acquiring one. Is the later version of the locomotive going to have the same tender trucks as the Strasburg version? We just completed another round of changes and corrections so I will post new drawings of the final versions in a few days. The drawing clearly is what is out at Strasburg but the photo of 457 shows a different truck.
Also notice that the leaf springs are in line with the sideframe in the drawing and the leaf springs on the Strasburg engine are in line with the bolster and 90 dergees of the side frame. You will also notice that there are two coil springs on the Strasburg Tender truck and no coil springs on the drawing.
There is also a bottom side member that the leaf springs are attached to and the Strasburg tender truck has no bottom side member. This drawing it what is under the #457 in this post, but is not what under the Strasburg engine. I noticed this because the N&W trucks look more like what is under a lot of the reading tenders.
To stimulate some interest, I am going to post every now and then, a "Before" and "after" photo, ONLY, the "After" photo will be shown first. The idea is to try and guess what circumstances happened BEFORE the "After" photo was taken.
The bloke has the key to the loco in his briefcase ands the railroad has called the police to help get it back so they can get moving?
The fellow on the roof is the owner of a manufacturing company, who has decided to outsource all production to china. Hmmmmmm - Looks to me as well, that an insurance claim investigator (that suited fellow with a brief case standing on the building's platform roof) and others are there because the end trailer on the flat car struck the building's roof and got wedged either beside or under it.
Now that the flat cars and trailer have been backed off by the switcher, assessment of any damage is being done. This actually happened during one of our operating sessions and guess who was the Engineer no don't bother to guess it was Neville.
I don't know why but during the course of some switching I put the piggy back into the platform siding and it hit the roof the "after" photo is the investigation. Below is the actual "Before" photo it is not staged this is how it happened I stopped before the trailer left the flatcar.

From the third picture it looks like someone didn't line the switch for the ramp, so I guess there is a time off penalty coming for some of the crew for this little mishap. Building telephone, utility, or telegraph poles is the perfect first scratchbuilding project for the beginner, as well as an enjoyable project for more experienced modelers. I believe that, if one is going to build a diorama or a scene on a model railroad, one should do their level best to make it as realistic as possible.
After putting the notches in your poles, drill a hole in the center of each notch, put a straight piece of wire into the hole, and glue it in with CA.
Next ita€™s time to put in the wires that will hold the insulators, or insulator armatures.
As I was about to say, till I got sidetracked, there are a couple of ways of mounting the poles. At this point, if youa€™ve been building poles along with me, then you may feel youa€™re finished. As you can see by the photographs, I havena€™t done this yet (it scares me, too!) Once I do this, then I will never again be satisfied with bare power poles, and I will always have to re-pull wire whenever I build anything, or rebuild anything. I hope you enjoyed making utility poles, with the shortage wea€™ve had of this one item in O Scale over the years, its nice when a layout has them, as it adds a completeness to any scene. Your photo here shows different tender trucks under the 475 while as an N&W locomotive.
For example, the 12K tender version will get a top mount check valve instead of the side mount check valves. The sunset drawing has the Strasburg truck which looks just like a commonweath tender truck. The angle of the reading side sills are different but they also have the leaf springs in line with the side frames and have a bottom bar that the leaf springs attach to. Crossarms can range in length from eight to twelve feet, depending on how much the crossarm has to support. The type of beads that youa€™ll want to use for insulators are commonly referred to as Indian beads, or Rochaille. In essence, what your doing is making a very short bead necklace by putting the wire through the bead. If you did things right, you should have a blank space in the center of your crossarms where there are no insulators.
You can either drill out the bottom of the pole for a small nail, or use a smaller drill and put a piece of wire in the hole.
This would be true of a lot of folks who dona€™t care to take that extra step and make power, phone or telegraph lines.
However, if you must know, you start at one end, get one end glued on, and you go from pole to pole. It’s been a fascinating look behind the scenes at what it takes to get a model built.
The Sunset models are supposed to be delivered with both boiler tube and foot board pilots.
I’m going to ask Scott to make a few extra smokebox fronts so that you can make a 12K version with a high headlight and a 10K version with centered headlight. The 10K tender gets 4-wheel trucks and they are same on both the N&W and Strasburg versions. The N&W rebuilt 475 for a centennial celebration in 1957 and gave it the short 10K tender, a high mounted oil headlight (converted to electric), a balloon stack and a fancy paint job. You will notice that the angle that the side frame comes down from the journal is different than on the Strasburg engine.
I went back and checked what I sent to Sunset and I sent the correct N&W truck (the one linked above) drawing along with photos of the Strasburg tender truck. I have found at least three Ms with 10K tenders that have the same truck as the Strasburg engine.
HO and N Scale have telephone poles available, in quantity no doubt, and can be detail painted and have wires strung on them.
Then, when it rains, you wona€™t have water puddling at the top and degrading the wooden pole. You can use CA to do the complete assembly of the poles, as I do, but many will choose to use either white glue or carpenters glue. It should be of sufficient gauge to hold the beads that we will be using to represent the insulators on the crossarm. These can be found in the Craft Department of any Wal-Mart, or at Michaela€™s Arts and Crafts stores. Dona€™t forget to check that the wire, or thread, is glued to the same insulator from one pole to the next.

I know it doesna€™t rain in the train room, but realism is what we are striving for here, isna€™t it?
There are all different kinds of poles out in the real world used for power, telephone lines, or railroad telegraph systems.
Be careful not to mix the colors on one insulator, as that would look suspect at best, but you can certainly mix different colors on the same utility pole. You should already have a piece of wire in the notch of the pole; put a little glue into the notch, either CA or white glue, and push the crossarm in place.
Minwax is a brand that is fairly easy to find at any Wal-Mart or any home improvement superstore. I used an elastic sewing thread, which can be found at any sewing center, or in the sewing department of any Wal-Mart store. The paint scheme is based somewhat on that found on Seaboard Coast Line's GE U36B # 1776.
Poles have been available from Lionel, Marx, and a couple of other firms, always looking toy-like since that is the market they are made for. They are too long out of the display, of course, but a typical dowel will make several poles.
Then, use some CA and glue it down, two ends on the cross arm, and the point of the a€?Va€? on the pole. I kind of inherited them after he went to the great shipyard in the sky, so when I got these dowels, they were already cut. K&L House of Wood did make some nice craftsmen-type kits for telephone poles, but those were both expensive and tedious to build. At the craft department in Wal-Mart, you can also find suitable material to make the crossarms.
If you model the Pennsy, along the four-track main around Horseshoe Curve, then you will want to have up to eight crossarms with ten wires each per telegraph pole, on both sides of the track. Clear green and clear are common insulator colors on railroad telegraph poles, for example, while brown insulators are common on roadside utility poles. I know mine look great, however, because they actually sat outside in a can for over a year before I found where I had stuck them. Different areas of the country do have different standards, so these poles dona€™t have to be nine inches tall.
When I got my supply of this stuff over a year ago, it was on clearance, but Ia€™m betting it can be found at any sewing supply place, or maybe even at Michaela€™s Arts and Crafts stores. Some mainline power poles will require a transformer also; in fact, you may want two transformers on a main power pole. If, on the other hand, youa€™re modeling the Southern Pacific running through parts of Texas, you may want only two or four crossarms with eight wires per arm. Take your floral wire and start cutting small pieces about a quarter inch long, and glue them into the holes you drilled out. When you can handle the nearly complete pole, it will be time to put on the crossarm supports. They actually weathered pretty nicely, something I cana€™t say about most of my stuff that was left outside when I lived in a trailer.
I found some wood matchstick-type wood; its about eight and one half scale feet long, and is perfect for the crossarms of any scale telephone poles built for six wires per arm.
The nice thing about the Weaver poles is that the insulators look right, but this article isna€™t about buying Weaver poles. If you want eight wires per crossarm, you will need about ten scale feet, which most should be able to find at their local hobby shop. You should have two scale feet of clear space, in the middle of the crossarm, where there is no insulator.
Also in the Craft Department, you will find the brown, green, and clear beads wea€™ll use to make insulators. On the other hand, you can also use modelers license and do anything you want; just make it look realistic, even if it isna€™t.
Some like to use a thumbtack or push pin to open up the holes, and Ia€™m sure it works fine.

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