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Surely the Taleggio makes a significant carbon footprint, adding wild richness to the delightfully lumpy polenta, a rustic grind from Anson Mills. He?s doing it all, desserts and bread (the focaccia with black olive bruises), remarkable bread sticks, pickling, curing, butchering. If the lack of tulips has dampened expectations, we?re all pleasantly surprised by the rustic free-form pizzas, crisp and sturdy, with excellent flavor in the blistered dough?both the heirloom cherry-tomato pie with white anchovies and wild watercress, and one with lardo, sorrel, farm-made ricotta and a farm egg. Our five are sharing meatballs, too?soft and complex, tucked into a divided dish alongside sweet-and-sour eggplant with chopped pine nuts.
Then the fritto misto arrives like a mushroom cloud, ballooning out of its shiny charlotte mold, provoking cries of astonishment.

In the history of mixed frying, I cannot imagine a more exotic gathering: chickpea panisse, green tomatoes, homemade sausage-stuffed olives, shishito peppers, pickled zucchini blossoms. Just three pizzas and ?to follow,? as the menu puts it, two pastas, a fish, a vegetable misto, three meats.
The lamb ragu spooned over Lambert?s elongated hand-rolled trofie noodles reveals its complexity in the mouth with mint, scallion and pecorino, an alchemy of lamb saucing. The maccheroni alla chitarra is firm, as it should be, with razor clams, corn, torn basil leaves and toasted crumbs.
We consider ordering the smoked pork shoulder with a farm egg and dandelion greens, or black sea bass with coco and fava beans in a seafood broth.

But we?ve eaten so much and exclaimed so often (swallowing our own hot air) that the notion is voted down.
And he looks to a nonprofit co-op in Lancaster, Pa., for products he can?t find in the green market five blocks away.

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