O gauge flex track calories,new york city neighborhoods by income,dcc ho train layouts uk,lionel diesel remote control train set 80s - You Shoud Know

16.03.2016
Note from Editor: John and Gale Blessing's Anozira Rail Road is a good example of taking Lionel trains outdoors to run. We've been O-gauge railroaders for years, but for this project we decided to move our trains outside.
As we mentioned in our earlier articles, the Anzira Rail Road (ARR) uses HDPE roadbed similar to that described in Paul Race and Bill Logan's "HDPE Flexible Roadbed" article. Plan to Ventilate Track in Hot Climates - Where the track is exposed to all day open sunshine there will be a lot of track movement - especially in Tucson where the rails can reach 140 - 160 degrees. In Tuscon, you really can fry eggs on the patio, so even our so-called "ground-level" track is elevated to allow ventilation around the ties.
Because we were going to use some pretty high elevations, we chose to use 6' or longer steel fence posts from Lowes for most of our vertical risers. I also cut 3"x2" "support" blocks to make the connection between the fence post and the "ladder." My 2x6 HDPE came from the factory with a slight groove in the center that was just right for stabilizing the fence posts.
Other Options - Since we began this project, Atlas has begun using UV-resistant plastic ties on their O-gauge, nickel-silver track, which makes them a viable option, although their track will still probably require ventilation in our setting. When I have a short straight piece separating an "S" curve, I fasten it down with one screw in the middle.
Track Power Attachment - While you are creating your track plan, don't forget to include your track power attachment points.
Here's a BIG "lesson learned." Initially I made assumptions about how much room the curves would really need and how easy it would be to tweak things if they didn't quite go as planned, based on the marketing brochures and my experience with some, but not all, of Gargraves' products. For the next expansion, I used templates to lay out where the track should go before I staked the roadbed.
The next time I do this (not likely in my lifetime), I will order one piece of each curve I expect to use and make templates to guide my roadbed construction.
No matter how careful you are when laying the templates, you are going to be off when it comes to placing your ladder roadbed and track.
No, I haven't started another railroad, and don't plan to, but, based on our experiences, this process should work for the next person trying this.
Lay the whole route out with the templates to make certain you are designing something that can actually work.
After you've built your HDPE "ladder" roadbed, put each curved section in place temporarily, using clamps to hold the ladder and support blocks on the fence posts. With the curved roadbed sections clamped to the risers, lay the fixed radius track on the roadbed and made sure things are lined up properly. Finally, when you are connecting curved sections, use flex for the "straight" sections; that allows you to make minor adjustments. If you lay your track system like that -- oh my gosh it will be sooooooooooooooooo smooth to run trains upon. Once you have your roadbed where it needs to be, it's time to pay attention to details of installing Gargraves for a "bulletproof" outdoor railroad. Connecting Gargraves Track Sections - Fifty percent of the track is joined, track section to track section, not by the standard track pins, but by the GarGraves Fit-Up track joiners. Applying Conductive Grease - We have found that an application of conductive grease or electrical anti-corrosion grease is an absolute necessity to protect conductivity on joint-to-joint connection devices such as track pins and Fit-Ups (our preference).


To attach the next track section apply the conductive grease to one end of the track section as explained above, but do not slide the ties back.
Leave Small Gaps Between Rails to Absorb the Rest of the Expansion and Contraction - Living in Tucson, I don't install track until ambient temperature is in the 70s at least. We have never mastered soldering to stainless steel rails, so, all power drops to tracks are to GarGraves terminal track sections at 10 to 15' intervals. The Anozira Rail Road has 700' of track that is divided into 8 equal sections for use with Lionel's TrainMaster Command Control (TMCC) system.
Wipe The Track Often - The track MUST be wiped clean before running of trains; even if you just ran trains the day before.
Troubleshooting Outside Gargraves Track Problems - Any time you have trouble with an engine not wanting to run along a section of track as it should, go through all the regular checks and then suspect loss of internal rail conductivity due to degraded track end connections. Mechanical and Conductivity Issues - Trains are more likely to derail on turnouts than anywhere else. UV Issues - Even though Gargraves' plastic ties are supposed to be UV-resistant, I've had issues with their turnouts.
Control Issues - Here is the really big issue - if you want to use Lionel TrainMaster Command Control (TMCC) to control your turnouts, you'll discover that nobody makes the equipment you need to do this outdoors. We have mostly tried using GarGraves switches, though we have a couple of Atlas 7.5 degree, high speed turnouts.
After trying several options, we settled on Z-Stuff for Trains DLZ-2500 switch machines, because they respond to TMCC signals, the technology we use to control our trains.
I've also looked into Del-Aire, which are impervious to moisture, dust or UV, because they're really just little pistons powered by air. I've looked all of the other switch machines that are TMCC-compatible; none seem likely to hold up to outdoor use even as well as the DLZ-2500s did. Still Trying New Things - When I first sent the content for this article to Paul, I thought I had the switch motor problems figured out. As a result of other turnout issues, in 2009, I began replacing the GarGraves switches with Ross switches.
Paul speaking: We should probably have thrown out all the stuff John tried that didn't work and just published a nice straightforward set of instructions that made everybody look good and made you feel brave about your next project.
Recently, I learned that the Blessings have had further problems with their track; again the problems seem to be related to the extreme climate in which they are operating. And if you have any successes or failures that your fellow hobbyists can learn from, please drop me a line. Fred Young's Ground-Level Arizona Railroad - A ground-level railroad that has lots of operational options and some unique ways of adapting to the Arizona summer sun.
Note: Family Garden Trains?, Garden Train Store?, Big Christmas Trains?, BIG Indoor Trains?, and BIG Train Store?
This article accompanies the article Planning an O Gauge Outside Railroad, which uses John and Gale's extensive Anozira Rail Road for many examples.
Where possible, I let the track "float" on the HDPE ladder "roadbed." The open construction of the ladder helps cool the track. We have taken steps to ventilate all of our track, and replaced about 100' of it with track that has basswood ties.


That way, the piece can pivot a little as the curves move in and out with temperature changes, and it doesn't lift off the track in high winds.
However, the new sections where I have laid sectional track have not yet been exposed to all day, open sun, so I may have to update this section if the results are different. So the flex comes in very handy to make adjustments EXCEPT, JUST DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.
These joiners are over 2X longer than conventional track pins, thus they provide a larger surface area by which to make physical and electrical contact. We place two ties, edge to edge at the very end of the track section to insure a better hold on the Fit-Up. This end will simply slip directly down and over the installed Fit-Ups of the track section in place.
Since O Gauge Outside track is exposed to water, track connections degrade at what seems to be an alarming rate if you don't use Fit-Ups and conductive grease.
Bob thinks a lighter color would help the Gargraves turnouts hold up better in his blistering back yard.
According to a metallurgist, I should expect at least 2 mm of expansion and contraction in each 37" section. Insuring that the Fit-Ups are up into each rail as far as they will fit; slide the ties to secure the Fit-Ups as explained above (2 ties - 1 tie). Then we gap the sections no less than 2 mm at each end of EVERY joint regardless of that section's length. I use 12 gauge, landscape wire, with soldered joints at connections and underground, irrigation grade wire nuts for insulation of the splices.
Some wire runs installed on the underside of the track ladder are placed in cheap garden hose because of sun exposure.
All information, data, text, and illustrations on this web site are Copyright (c) 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 by Paul D.
Even if you allow 2mm for expansion at every connection, the heat will eat up that gap, especially on straightaways. The rails work themselves back and forth just like a nail or screw that works itself out of fastened materials. But because I can't see them little aeroplanes out there at 100 yards, I had to stay with pounding steel on the RR. Sometimes the rails of two connected sections are butted up, end-to-end at one end and there is 4 mm gap at the other end. All wire bundles larger than 2 wires are protected with landscape plastic edging over the top prior the refilling the wire trench to protect the wires from future spading or shovel nicks.
In addition, Fred has asked Gargraves to make track with light gray ties - they could represent the concrete ties that some Eastern railroads are using now.



N scale overpass escape
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