Peco n gauge streamline track plans ho,new york subway facts,o gauge mth layouts 5sos - How to DIY

Important note: Leave plenty of space under the module ends so that clamps can be easily fitted, keep all wiring away from this area.
All turnouts should be the largest available on the mains, passing loops and interchange tracks.
All pointwork should have power routing applied to the frog so as not to rely on the switching blade to make contact and carry the current. The SB group have a supply of free issue cable in the 6 designated colours for members building modules.
We recommend using Tapin Splice (Squires code CC0165) connectors to splice the buss cables to your layout.
Please fit Cup hooks on the inside edge underneath your modules, this is so any cabling, i.e.
The views expressed on this page are entirely my own, formed from my experiences in modelling in British N gauge. 9mm`N`gauge track is manufactured by Peco using Nickel-Silver rails and plastic moulded sleepers and is available in different Types or `Codes'. These are the measurements I have taken myself of pieces of spare Peco streamline track that happened to be lying around in the railway room. There are several items of trackwork that are only available in Code 55, EG; Single Slip, Double Slip, and the Complete Scissors Crossing, are made in Code 55 only. Most if not all of the currently available British, European, American and Japanese N gauge models will run on Code 55 track without any modifications.

I will be using up the Code 80 track & pointwork I have on my `Home' Stoneybridge layout, and portable Stoneybridge West layouts.
Joining code 55 to Code 80 can be done easily when no electrical connection is required across the join. Painting trackwork can seem a daunting task when first attemting to make realistic model railways (As Opposed to a shiny `trainset') but it is well worth the effort making the track `fit in' better with scenic surroundings and greatly improving the overall look of your layout. I have used finely crushed granite ballast for all of the Code 80 trackwork on Stoneybridge and Stoneybridge West (A & B boards) as I have a few pounds of it to use up. Please ensure that there is enough clearance at the track end so that the rail joiner can slip easily into the mating track. NEW MODULES - A basic sketch of your proposed modules should be submitted to members so that the group have an idea of your plans and may kick start another member into adding a complementary industry eg Cattle ranch goes with a Meat packing plant. All public exhibitions which we are requested to attend will be operated and organised by a dispatcher. The track dimentions shown here should be taken as a guide, and are not guaranteed to be exact as they were taken using a mechanical measuring tool, So please allow for a slight margin of error on my measurements.Ozz Scott. The most popular being Code 80 which is widely available and Code 55 which is often wrongly referred to as N gauge `Finescale' track. Catch Points are only available in Code 80, but I have heard whispers that catch points will be added to PECO's Code 55 track range. A very few old models (possibly second hand) may have wheel flanges that are too big for Code 55 rail but I have not found any yet myself.

I am now also modelling in 2mm finescale (9.24mm track gauge) which uses code 40 rail, the track is built by hand with the aid of templates and roller gauges.
By packing the Code 55 track up to the level of the Code 80 (using plasticard packing Under the Code 55 track sleepers) you can avoid having to file the Code 80 track down at the ends to lower it to the level of the Code 55 track.
Using a `HARD' ballast is quite easy with code 80 track as long as care is taken not to clog up pointwork and the inner reailchairs are kept clear as even a few stray grains can stop a point blade from closing properly or lift the trains wheels off the track losing electrical contact. There is true fine scale N trackage available in Kit form that you build yourself from the seperate sleepers, chairs & rails but this is not yet available in prefabricated lengths.
If an electrical connection across the join is required in a Scenic section I use a seperate power feed to each individual section of track, Where the join is not in a visible scenic section (The fiddle yard and hidden sidings) I would simply solder a fine piece of wire to the outside of the rails across the track gap. Both types are visually improved greatly by painting the sides of the rails, this gives an even finer `closer to scale' appearance to trackwork with only the top and inner running faces of the rails being `shiny'.
Code 80 benefits greatly from painting and can be made to look quite good but In my oppinion using painted Code 55 trackwork vastly improves the overall look of a layout, especially with the inclusion of complex trackwork such as Double Slips in your layout which were and still are widely utilised in railway companies trackplans in the UK.

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