Railroad tie replacement videos engra?ados,deluxe north pole express train set 900100,new york penn station to atlantic city bus,melissa and doug wooden railway set dimensions manually - Step 2

Perhaps you have cut the side yard first, perfectly and evenly and easily, but then look at the long grass in the back yard with trepidation. It is part of the lawn that is far too steep and the soil is precariously eroded from endless water runoff.
You know you need a retaining wall of some kind, but have procrastinated in building one, for the cost of manufactured, interlocking concrete stones commonly used to construct retaining walls is too high for your budget.
Railroad ties, also called cross ties, or railway ties,  are creosoted or chemically treated timbers that have been historically used to lay railway track all the way across North America. To find a source of railway ties, ask at your local building supply, landscapers, building contractors, or the friendly folks at your nearest rail yard.
Buy railroad ties  from reputable contractors that often have contracts to legally remove hundreds, even thousands of ties at once, and do stockpile them for sale.
Choose ties that are not rotten, have no major splits in them, and preferably, are all the same size for convenience in construction.
A retaining wall is ideally best kept level from one end to the other, so DO excavate the base to level. Make sure the trench and base is wide enough to include a drainage tile if wet conditions are present.
Failure to provide drainage may result in wall washout, serious instability, and ultimately, even total failure and collapse of the wall. If soil conditions are very wet, installing a perforated weeping tile on the uphill side of the retaining wall will allow the water to escape. If surface water runoff is a serious issue, consider installing a French drain on the upper end of the drainage area to provide surface drainage.
If the wall is long, and the site slopes sideways and can not ideally be made level because of bedrock or other considerations, consider modifying the design to include dividing or even off-setting a portion of the wall to take advantage of the unique features of the site.
Remember that if the wall is long and high, to be stable, it may require installing dead men' timbers at right angles in alternating rows to enhance structural stability. Deadmen timbers should be placed every eight feet on alternate courses as a minimum, if the wall is very long.
Alternatives to improve stability include incorporating an adjacent natural buttress along the wall, or  include one or more, short right-angle, sections of wall into the design  as aesthetically-appealing and functional abutments to improve wall stability. To avoid building excessively high walls, consider controlling individual wall heights by planned terracing,  alternating and stepping the timber walls back toward higher ground. Three 2' ' high retaining walls with an appropriately landscaped terrace with flower beds and bushes between them may ultimately be far more attractive than one blunt 6' high wall right at the street. Level the subsoil in the trench  and install a 4-6" layer of crushed stone to provide stability and avoid excessive settling of the finished wall.
Cut 2' or longer  sections of construction steel reinforcing bar or other suitable steel bar.
Install the perforated weeping tile level with the bottom of the timber, on the UPHILL side of the timber, placing the holes facing DOWN, and cover the pipe  with crushed rock.  Route the ends of the weeping tile to a suitable location where they can be terminated in crushed rock or gravel.

Backfill the slope  to the top of the first row, ensuring the placement of  coarse, free-draining gravel immediately behind the timber. Mark the top of the finished grade on a picket or stake driven into the ground at the outside of the first row, for a 'batter board' .
Proceed with the second course, of railroad ties, alternating the joints as is done in brick or block work. Proceed with subsequent courses of timbers, fastening each in place with reinforcing steel rod driven into the preceding layer. Ideally, fill, wet down, and compact the gravel and dirt behind each course of timbers as you go for stability and less settling in the future. Complete and secure the top course, pegging it securely with reinforcing rod, or consider lag-bolting the last course in place with long galvanized lag bolts if available. Now that your retaining wall is complete, your yard will be much more useable, it will be much easier to maintain, and you can breathe easier cutting the grass with the lawn mower.  It will be safer. Kathlyn, that is perhaps the greatest benefit of building retaining walls with railway ties or timbers. That’s where we had them, in Minnesota, now it makes a lot of sense why the walls were made of railroad ties. I think the boats are also treated with a creosote or tar equivalent, I’m not positive about that one, Kathlyn.
To which Raymond replied “they load piles of timbers into a vacuum vessel filled with liquid creosote, then vacuum pump the air out.
I had never known this, and the comments on G+ might help someone here on the bloggysphere as well. Thanks for giving us that example of good use of a retaining wall Kathlyn–railroad ties are very versatile and can be successfully used under really tough conditions.
When checked, Shutterstock's safe search screens restricted content and excludes it from your search results. Cross Tie Replacement A wooden railroad tie, which weighs 200 pounds and is nine feet long, typically lasts 40 to 70 years. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
It is impossible to cut the grass safely with a lawnmower, so you haul out the weed whacker and start giving the treacherous area a tedious, crude haircut one more time.
The treated wood ties resist decay for years but are eventually replaced as a matter of safety. To ensure free drainage down the full height of the wall, backfill behind each course of ties with coarse gravel so water will percolate down to the weeping tile that will be installed level with the first course of timbers.
For example, level individual sections, even at different elevations, and consider installing a convenient access stairwell to take advantage of the division. That process is accomplished by laying a timber at right angles into the wall on alternating courses, with the deadmen timbers extending into, and buried in stable soil uphill.

Install galvanized "T" plates, nailing them  securely both to the deadmen timbers and to the adjacent face timbers to prevent the deadmen timbers from pulling out and becoming ineffective as the wall continues to move out under pressure. Six feet is generally considered to be the maximum, but DO verify code requirements or limitations on the height of retaining walls in your jurisdiction, regardless of building materials used, otherwise you may also end up installing guard rails or security fencing on top to meet regulations for safety. Instead of one very tall wall, consider using low, successive retaining walls, with wide terraces and access steps for safety considerations. Here's a really good example of smart retaining wall use for beautiful landscaping even though it is drystone construction. Drill holes through the ties at both ends, and using the sledge hammer, drive the steel bars into the ground to hold the ties in place securely.
That will determine how many more courses of timbers you require, keeping in mind that a retaining wall should not be more than 6' high for safety considerations. Remember the old masonry rule "one over two, two over one" so there are never two joints vertically adjacent. We walked down those steps for 20+ years and though the ones we put the most weight on had some rot problems, once they were replaced, the whole wall and steps were so solid, you swore they were made out of cement. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). Replacement on the railroad itself  may be with new timbers --or the increasingly common concrete rail bedding ties. This can result in better use of the area, and the opportunity for extra visual appeal terracing can provide.
The same principles apply for timber construction.  Lower is better,  safer, and easier to construct. Establish the grade required to the top of the wall using a transit level, a line level, or sighting a 4' carpenter's level. We had them around the back of the house I grew up in, our house was built into a hill, and the back yard led down into a swamp, so the RR ties were used to hold the hill back so there was some level land before the swamp and so there was some area the swamp could flood into. The replacement program has left millions of used and unused railway ties, switch timbers, and other large creosoted timbers available for other purposes including landscaping. Pack or tamp any fill material adequately if it is necessary to bring up the grade for the foundation. Despite the swamp flooding every 5 years or so all the way up to the ties, and the freezing conditions every winter, the retaining wall and steps always held up.

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