Weathering model railroad cars hotel,trains from nyc to uniondale ny 11553,holiday express train set replacement parts - Easy Way

13.04.2014
Don Smith's expert treatment of this Atlas O Santa Fe boxcar makes us feel like we should probably go get that tetanus booster shot, just to be safe.
Anyone can be a member of The Weathering Shop, the only requirement is a passion to create top notch realistic weathering. Please enjoy the following gallery of some of our recent work, along with descriptions provided by the modelers. RBOX 43892: This Pullman-Standard boxcar started out as an Athearn ready-to-run HO scale model that came right on the money as far as accurate to prototype detail. Next came the ghost lettering that is common on many older Pullman-Standard Railbox cars that are still in service today.
PLMX 2840: This 33,000 gal tank car was another ready-to-run HO scale model that is really well detailed from the Atlas assembly line. ALY 91738: This car started out as an Atlas Trainman model, which was re-detailed to match the prototype cars Allegheny Railroad has in steel plate service. 1954 IHC R-190 Snow Plow in Pennsy Livery: The truck cab and chassis are from Classic Metal Works I kept the paint and lettering on the truck stock, but added a Life-Like dump bed instead of the fifth wheel that came with the model. The trucks are finished with a mixture of several Bragdon Weathering Powders rust colors applied over an ultra flat surface. IATR 13146: I described this project in detail in the October 2009 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman. If you are curious about the Internet, social media like Facebook and Twitter, and want to know more about what's going on in the wide, wide world up in the clouds, and especially if you have any desire to do something for yourself, I urge you to take a little time to watch the video below. Prestige Hobbies - Diecast Cars and Racing Collectibles Shop online from the largest selection of diecast model cars and die cast racing collectibles on the west coast. So this week I was looking into different methods of how to make mountains for your layout, and I came across a few different methods using foam. An important aspect to creating a realistic looking layout is to weather your trains and rolling stock. I always get exited when I receive an email from Dave about a new video, as I know I’m going to be in for a treat.
In this post I thought I would share with you a couple of cool little gadgets that I found on the web which can help you out with model railroading.
As I have touched on in my last few posts, building the scenery for your layout is one of the most rewarding, enjoyable, and relaxing (for the most part) aspects of model railroading. A great deal of the enjoyment that you can get from model railroading comes from designing your own structures and scenery for your layout. One of the things that I love about the model railroading community is how they come up with their own little tricks and techniques to make their layouts more realistic. One of the first challenges that faces all new model railroaders is what are you going to build your layout on.
If you are a beginner at model railroading and are looking for a simple and effective way to add weathering to the tracks on your layout, then look no further than the Track Painters available from Woodland Scenics.
One of the best parts of model railroading is that you are able to build your own little world (or not so little depending on the space that you have available).
If you are looking for a high quality track cleaning wagon then you should consider the CMX track cleaning wagon. If you’ve been wondering how to build a model train platform, have a look at the video below.
Woodland Scenics have come out with a great product to clean your model train tracks and model train wheels. Here’s a great video explaining how to easily create roads and paved areas for your model railroad using the Woodland Scenics range of products. Laurie is a perfectionist and has made some fine adjustments to his Blackstone locomotive bells. Many of you asked how Dave gets access to any trains that may derail in his long tunnel… Well the video below demonstrates how.
Watch this video as Dave demonstrates how he constructed his new tunnels for his model railroad. I was afforded the opportunity to stretch the legs so to say, of my new True Line Trains HO scale Metrolink (SCAX) MP36PH-3C on the overshadowed San Diego Model Railroad Association's HO scale San Diego & Arizona Eastern layout in Balboa park, San Diego. I weathered it with oils, washes & powders to represent this car as it would have looked in the late 60s, the era I model. Amazing work on the modern stuff all - my preference is for something a little older and of the wooden variety. This was my first attempt using a series of washes for the body and roof, along with grimy black and weathering powders for the trucks.
Finished off with a coat of Dullcoat to seal, in the end very happy with the lightly weathered look.


I presume you used colored pencils based on the photo.  Was it then sealed with dullcoat? Don is a member of an informal group known as The Weathering Shop who gather to display and discuss their techniques for creating realistic weathering techniques for models. Unique challenges come from replicating the effects of weather and age on railroad equipment. The main purpose of the site is to be an online gallery for some terrific artwork, but we also have a page where we detail some of our techniques as well.
I first shot the car with a liberal misting of Testors Dullcote from the spray can to give it tooth and next I used a mix of colored pastels that I shaved into powder into a small basin with a razor blade. It came out of box in a simple all-black paint scheme with crisp proto-perfect lettering and disclaimers.
The snow plow is a Roco product, but the frame work just above the truck bumper, and the side plow hardware and frame are all scratchbuilt. I started with the cab of a Ford F-8 flatbed from Imex models then kitbashed the cab on the chassis of a CMW R-190, keeping the CMW wheel set. Lawrence & Hudson), a Kato SD40-2 undecorated model was my choice along with many commercially available detail parts.
First I dulled and faded the car with washes made from Model Master flat finish mixed with white acrylic paint.
The company had recently discovered model railroading as an application for their product line. Colors can be layered to create an infinite color palette to get the look you want.Their kits contain 7 colors, a palette tray and Soffta„? tools.
No need to scrape or sand pastel sticks.You can literally achieve weathering effects in seconds. Digging into the color creates excessive dust and waste.Apply the color to the surface of the model and build up in layers to achieve the coverage you want. I love getting stuff like this from you guys, it’s always great to see what other people are doing.
I mean, if you have gone to all the trouble of making realistic scenery for your layout, then its goign to look odd if the trains that are trundling around on your tracks are all shiny and new. The first is this cool little widget which converts real life measurements and converts them into OO, HO, N, or Z scale.
Not only is there something relaxing about watching their trains roll around in the little worlds that they’ve created, it’s also a great way to get inspiration for design elements for your own layout. With so many amazing trains out there, they can so easily slip you by if you take your eyes off the train catalogues or don’t get into your local hobby shop often enough. One of my absolute favourite layouts (which I would love to see in person) comes courtesy of Laurie.
This is an incredibly detailed steam locomotive in O scale with some great features and sound, including one of the best whistle steam smoke effects currently available from Lionel.
The roughened platform look can be easily achieved with a coat of paint, sprinkling on some fine sand and then painting again.
Have a look at the video below which was taken in 2009 after 2 years of work on his model train layout. So many beginners make the mistake of creating elaborate tunnels in mountains and completely forget about need to get access after a derailment. Laurie achieved this by installing a tiny motor in the cabin which is connected to a 2nd decoder.
The Canadian roads had a variety of bulkhead flat car designs for a variety of services, particularly for use in pulpwood and lumber service.These 70-ton flat cars had a fishbelly underframe and straight side sills with 15 steel stake pockets, lading strap anchors.
Ultimately replaced by the GE Genesis series locomotives, they are still a favorite by Amtrak fans. I brushed on light amounts of the brown pastel to achieve the golden color of a well-worn Railbox car. My goal was to employ painting and weathering techniques found on many military models, and to add delicate prototype detail below the walkway which is usually ignored in HO scale.
This one was done to match a prototype which was especially grimy, so I next mixed up a wash made from black acrylic paint and flat finish. The rusting was done with a variety of shades of burnt umber artists acrylics applied with a brush.
This was the third weathered car I ever attempted and it was probably my favorite project to date. I faded the car from the original Grand Trunk Western blue by using titanium white artists oil paint and dry brushing it on with a wide brush. This weathering line is great for railroad models and structures, military models, action figures, and miniatures.My experience is that you don't have to use a fixative if the model is not going to be handled much.


This week I thought I’d share an email and some pictures that I received from Lou last week. Dirty tracks are a problem for most model railroaders especially when they don’t run their trains for a long time.
A model railroad is never finished and it is a lot of fun… Look out for the Hollywood car in the background! The decoder is programmed to work the bell, the classification marker lamps and the firebox flicker under the locomotive.
Often beginners will create elaborate tunnels and forget about access when the train derails in the tunnel. The idea behind the site is to give modelers a place to show, sell and speak about their weathering artistry.
Part of the charm of this model is the mismatched numberboards and cobbled together primer paint job with corporate logos and lettering. After bathing the car in it a section at a time, I wiped off the excess with damp Q-tips allowing it to settle in all of the cracks. If your engines and rolling stock are used in operating sessions it's wise to fix the colors. As a result, the top of the center sill and body bolsters are on the same plane as the top of the wood decking on either side.
The work on the site includes rolling stock, locomotives, dioramas, structures and military armor in various scales. After this had dried, I applied scratches and dings and rust pits with a fine-haired artists brush and acrylic paint, then applied a small scale drybrushing of oil paint around the scratches and dings to represent actual rust bleed outs. Shadows and highlights are forced and enhanced using a painting process called color modulation. Next I took a heavy body burnt umber artist's acrylic paintand did lots of rust accents around the edges of just about every side and end surface of the car as well as the logo. The grime is also applied with a brush and is a mixture of acrylic black paint and flat finish.
After every stage in weathering to this car, I applied Dullcote to seal the work accomplished.
This was achieved by hand painting from left to right on the the lower car body, exactly what is on the real car. The trailer has molded wooden slats, so I softened the decals with setting solution, then picked at them with a hobby knife to make them look old and worn on the wood surface. The method is popular with military armor modelers, and is based upon layering successive shades of color to simulate depth using contrasting lights and darks keyed to how the real thing would appear under a natural light source. The next step was to blend those in with a diluted lighter shade of rust mixed up with burnt sienna and umber. The flat finish provides a great vehicle to allow the color to be applied with transparency as opposed to just diluting the black paint. As I mentioned eariler, lock the color(s)with a fixative if the model will be handled frequently. A light wash of a diluted charcoal gray and mocha brown acrylic mix was the final touch before adding the airhoses, cut levers and undercarriage brake rigging. The grimy weathering effects were achieved with the usual artists oils, gouache and pigments. Details on this car include a fully custom underframe, Proto 2000 trucks, Intermountain wheels, cut levers, kitbashed side and end ladders and coupler platforms.
I used a combination of heavy body burnt umber for darker rust and lighter burnt sienna to create the illusion of older and newer rust growing together over a bare metal surface.
Never use wet tools, fluids or mediums with the color pan.The manufacturer advises mixing PanPastelA® colors on a palette or directly on the model when combining with other mediums. I wanted the trailer to look like it was filled with leftover junk from last years' season, so I raided my spares box for parts and pieces. Not three years of continuous work mind you, because life has a funny way of interrupting even your favorite, most time consuming and exciting projects. If extra "grab" (adhesion) is wanted, apply a light coat of a clear flat finish.I recommend trying this weathering system.



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