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02.10.2015
If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!5-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe old-style GE design uses a single-speed reversing motor, which is belted to the transmission.
When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle (Figure GE-1.)A simple centrifugal clutch prevents the motor from taking heavy shock loads when starting. There is less chance of chipping or scratching the finish.2) Inside the lid, on the top right side, is the recirculation nozzle. There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking. You may not see any water directly, but you will see its tracks leading down the pump body.
See section 5-4 on pumps. 2) These washers are quite different from others in that the tub is attached to the cabinet, rather than the transmission. It can develop leaks, or even shake loose, causing a MASSIVE leak (during the fill cycle, the water dumps straight onto the floor instead of filling the tub). Usually such holes will appear around the top of the tub.If you have holes worn in the tub, you can sometimes patch them with an epoxy patch kit, available at your appliance parts dealer. It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer. As of this writing, it is not yet widely available, but ask your dealer or call 800-936-5282. 4) The tub fittings may leak. If you detect a leak from the tub drain or other tub fitting, remove the basket as described in section 5-6. 5) You may get a calcium or detergent buildup around the fill or recirculation nozzle. Replace it as described in section 5-4. If the machine is not pumping out water because the coupling has come off the pump, check the pump for jamming. Therefore, a locked transmission will not stop the motor from turning, but a locked pump will. 1) If NOTHING on the machine works, and it's not even making any noise, check the power supply.
In others, only the spin cycle is interlocked, and the machine will still fill and agitate with the lid raised.
Check as described in section 2-5(a) and tighten or replace as described in section 5-10.3) Often a sock or something has jammed in the pump.
You will also hear the motor trying to start, then tripping off by the motor overload switch, because it is being stalled by the pump. An additional confirmation of this diagnosis is that if you look at the pump coupling while the motor is trying to start, it will be twisted tightly. See section 5-4. 4) If the transmission pulley is turning, but either agitate or spin or both are not working, the transmission is bad.


Replace as described in section 5-13. If the pump is turning, but the transmission drive pulley is not turning, stop the washer and disconnect power.
If the transmission pulley will not turn in one or both directions, the transmission needs to be replaced.
See section 5-13.If the transmission pulley turns fairly easily by hand, but the clutch drum is turning slowly or not at all under motor power, the clutch may be bad. Usually you will hear the motor buzzing as it tries to start, then dropping out on the overload.
Check as described in section 5-12. 6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines.
Section 5-5. 7) If you have a two-speed machine and the slow (gentle) speed is not working, the clutch solenoid may not be working. See section 5-11. If the machine makes a squeaking noise, especially during the spin cycle, the snubbers are probably worn out. This is especially true if the machine has difficulty balancing during spin, even after you redistribute the clothes. Replace the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14.5-4 PUMP AND PUMP COUPLINGA vast majority of GE-built washers use the pump shown in figure GE-4.
Disconnect the pump coupling at the TOP end, then the remove the three pump mounting screws.
Then cut out the little piece of plastic in the center of the hub with a knife; this will expose the top of the agitator shaft. There are locking tabs that you must twist to remove the larger agitator from the smaller one. Once the screw is removed, the "handwash" agitator should lift out easily. If you need to remove it, it is simply clamped to the transmission top and to a lip on the tub by two big round clamps. If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place. If the timer dial prevents you from removing the timer, pull off the spring clip from behind the timer knob as shown in figure GE-10. The other design is known as a "clamshell" timer because of the curved shape of its plastic housing. If your timer is defective, take it to your parts dealer and ask for a rebuilt.5-8 LID SWITCHThe lid switch is located beneath the cabinet top, towards the right rear of the washer.
Test with an ohmmeter and replace if defective.5-9 WATER LEVEL SWITCHThe water level switch is located beneath the console.


GE washers used several different wiring schemes, so refer to section 2-6(b) and compare with figure GE-11 to determine which terminals to test. If it has no continuity, replace by removing the screw on the underside of the coil. I do not recommend the novice trying to rebuild a two-speed clutch. To service the single-speed clutch, first remove power from the washer and remove the back panel. If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them.
As you look at the back of the machine, you will find the relay towards the upper left side of the machine.
You should now see good continuity. If you do not get the above readings, replace the relay.
Slide the transmission towards the right rear of the washer, and reach under the transmission to make sure the drive belt has disengaged from it. Rebuilt GE transmissions are a standard item at most parts stores, and they are not terribly expensive.
Locate the right rear bolt loosely in its hole, then the left front bolt, then the other four. Install the boot, basket, and agitator. As a final step, remove the back from the washer and make sure the belt is seated properly.5-14 SNUBBER BLOCKSThere are eight friction pads, commonly known as snubber blocks, which help to prevent vibration during the spin cycle. There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking.
It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer.
If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place. If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them.



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