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POST a QUESTION or READ FAQs about how to install and wire electrical outlets or receptacles in buildings.
We describe how to wire an electrical receptacle by making the right connections between individual electrical wires and the proper screw or clamp connectors on the electrical receptacle device itself.
We also describe connecting the ground wire between the circuit grounding conductor, receptacle ground screw, and the electrical box (if metal boxes are used).
Watch out: Electrical components in a building can easily cause an electrical shock, burn, or even death. If you are wiring a 2-wire electrical circuit that has no ground wire, also see CONNECTION for 2-WIRE RECEPTACLE CIRCUITS for proper wiring details. So where do the wires go: to which screws on the electrical receptacle (shown just above) do we connect the black wire, white wire, and ground wire? You will see the hot black wire connected to the bronze or darker-colored screw on the receptacle shown at below right. Watch out: for the safest, most reliable electrical connections use either the screw clamp connector shown here, or use a wire connected directly to a binding head screw.
The bare ground wire - this wire connects to the green ground screw usually found on the bottom of the electrical receptacle (photo at left). I have a 3 wire (Black, White, Red and ground) feeding a outlet and I want to add another receptacle to run further down the line. NEVER connect a hot (red or black) wire to ground (nor to the white neutral wire) - doing so would form a dead short, should trip a breaker, or if not, could cause a fire or could cause a dangerous shock. If there is a hot wire that is not used in a junction box, SOP would be to cap it off with a twist-on connector.
After capping off the red wire, can I extend the line to the next plug by following the diagram above and adding the black and white wires to the respective second screw connections?
You see, the wiring has already been installed by the builders and they left the boxes without receptacles so all I have to do is connect them to the. Rick often electricians run a 3-wire system into a building area using two hot wires and a shared neutral, to permit providing two circuits in an area while having to pull just one wire to the area. Take a look at multi-wire branch circuit wiring information and hook-up details at MULTI-WIRE CIRCUITS. What is the difference between the load and line terminal screws on a 15 or a 20 amp receptacle? Anon: the line and load electrical wire connections are important to get right on certain electrical devices such as GFCIs and AFCIs.
The Load terminals (red arrows near the top of our photo at left) on an electrical receptacle are for the outgoing wires. Re-stating, terminals marked LOAD on a GFCI or AFCI are intended to be used to feed other devices (such as receptacle) that are wired "downstream" from the one being worked-on. Watch out: while a conventional receptacle may work with the line and load terminals reversed, a GFCI or AFCI will be unsafe if wired with that mistake, and those devices will not work properly nor test properly in all circumstances. Watch out: When wiring a GFCI the incoming leads are connected to the LINE terminals and the downstream receptacles are connected to the LOAD terminals marked on the back of the receptacle. Alternatively a wire may be connected directly to a screw on the receptacle or switch as we show in the photo below. At WIRE-TO-CONNECTOR PERFORMANCE SUMMARY you will see that the most-reliable electrical connections are made using either binding-head screw shown in the photo above (first choice) or the screw-clamp connector (shown at the start of this section) on receptalces and switches.
Below our photo illustrates using the (not-recommended) push-in back-wire connection that relies only on a spring clip connector. We have seen field reports of receptacle burn-ups that all involved spring-clip push-in type backwire connections.
The steps in connecting a wire to a binding head screw are simple but require a bit more labor than connecting an electrical wire in a screw-clamp type connector. The proper wire size (for 15A or 20A circuit) and type and number of connectors have already been selected. Above I'm showing the wire strip-back gauge area marked on the back of a 15A electrical receptacle. Below is a rather shorter wire stripping gauge telling us that for the device where this gauge appears - in this case a screw-clamp type wire connector, somewhat less insulation is to be removed. And don't strip off too much wire insulation or the extra length of bare wire may cause a short circuit when you push the device back into its electrical box.
Most light switches and receptacles include this indicator that tells you how much insluation the manufacturer recommends stripping off when wiring this device.
If the wire is being inserted straight into the connector, push the stripped end into the connector skip our illustrations of making a hook or loop at the wire end, just insert the wire into the connector straight, as shown below, and go on to Tighten the Screw below.


In the photo above I've inserted the stripped copper wire into the opening between the pressure plate and the backing plate of a screw clamp type connector on a 20A electrical receptalce. Bend the wire into a hook for use with a binding head screw if you are using that connector.
Tip: If I'm going to use the factory-provided bending lug to close this loop around the binding head screw stem then I make the open end of the hook a bit longer than shown in the photo above.
If the wire is not being inserted straight into a connector, hook the wire loop around the binding head screw. In the photo above you can see that the open end of the hooked copper wire pushes against a factory-designed raised lug or protrusion on the side of the receptacle.
Below I'm closing the wire hook by pushing the wire towards the raised lug while the end of the wire hook remains pressing against the lug (white arrow). In the photo below I'm using needle-nosed pliers to close the wire hook around the stem of the binding head screw. As you may agree when seeing the photo below, I don't see that the pliers do any better of a job in closing the loop around the screw stem. Electricians I've worked with or watched either make the screw hand tight (which turns out to be between 8 and 15 inch pounds of torque in my view), or they use a power driver which most assume applies very high torque. I have never once seen an electrician use a torque wrench at electrical devices like receptales and screws except for forensic engineers and other experts examining electrical connectors, but there are industry specifications for screw tightness or torque. Watch out: it may be possible to damage the screw connector in any electrical device if you over-tighten it, particularly if using a power tool or if like me you enclosed your receptacle in a vise. The electrical receptacle must be properly connected to the building grounding system - not shown in our sketch. That connection is made from the ground screw on the receptacle to the grounding conductor (usually bare copper) in the wire leading back to the electrical panel where in that location it is connected to a grounding bus and from that bus to the building grounding system, one or more earth-driven electrodes or their equivalent. The incoming ground wire is connected to the ground terminal on the electrical receptacle (usually a green screw such as shown in our photo at left). My building code stipulations would differ in some cases because I live in Canada, but I just want to do the job right, and I do not want to take the chance of having any fire hazards, as I also have small children. Reply: if you have to move an entire string of electrical receptacles complete re-wiring is faster and cheaper than adding a splice box for every device. The proper approach also means that you don't then bury any of these splice-boxes in the walls either.
The result is a lot of work and expense and an ugly wall with an extra junction box and blind cover all along the wall over each of the now moved or lowered electrical receptacles.
Frankly I figure that especially as you've already got the wall open to the studs, if there are more than one or two receptacles to be moved you'll probably find it is actually much less total work to re-wire the entire circuit, allowing proper lengths of wires for each box. Watch out: when removing wire that appears to be in good condition, if you nick the insulation you've created a new hazard. Continue reading at GROUND WIRE CONNECTIONS or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below. I would be embarrassed to say I allowed the pictures in this article to be a part of this page.
While we regret that you might be embarrassed, explicit, technical comment would be more helpful than shame tossed over the electronic-wall. Referring readers to a mere paratraph nunmber that points to lengthy electrical code specification without any specifics is not helpful. Timothy Hemm has provided photographs of various electrical defects used at the InspectAPedia TM Website. John Cranor is an ASHI member and a home inspector (The House Whisperer) is located in Glen Allen, VA 23060. Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore.
Recommended books on electrical inspection, electrical wiring, electrical problem diagnosis, and electrical repair can be found in the Electrical Books section of the InspectAPedia Bookstore. The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors. It will save you a lot of time and money looking for a professional that knows how to do this properly.
Electrical wiring should be performed by a licensed, trained electrician and should comply with the National Electrical Code and local regulations. You can see our white neutral wire connected to a silver screw on the receptacle in our photo. The receptacle we used for these photos happens to be a 20-A rated device that permits the wire to be inserted straight into a clamp that is tightened against the wire by the screw.
We don't recommend using the push-in type backwire method that relies on a simple spring-clip connector inside the device. You can also see our ground wire connected at the left side of our previous photo, above-left. But to sort out how your wires were connected and are being used requires some expertise, visual inspection, and testing using a VOM.
Our photograph (left) illustrates the line and load markings on the back of a GFCI electrical receptacle. And often we wire two separate electrical circuits to the box, placing one pair of receptacles on one circuit and the other on the second circuit - that approach allows us to plug more devices into the wall at that location with less chance of overloading a single electrical circuit in the building. If the devices is not wired correctly it is unsafe and does not provide the intended safety protection from ground faults.


Back-wiring means connecting the wire through an opening or into a clamp accessed on the back of the receptalce or switch. Some old switch or receptacle screws were rounded or tapered a bit on their underside or at their outer circumference so that if you were not careful the wire would pop out of place when tightening the screw. We do not recommend using the push-in back-wire connection that relies on a simple spring-clip device inside the receptacle or switch because that connection has both less contact area and less clamping force on the wire. You can see that this receptacle also offers side-mounnted binding head screws (recommended).
Both of those approaches make good connections, and you'll find that on some receptacles and switches you have only two choices: push-in spring-clip back-wiring, or using the side-mounted binding-head screw.
This gauge shows the amount of insulation that should be removed presumably for either of the types of connectors provided on this particular device. With the back of the receptacle facing you, place the wire on the left side of the screw so that when you tighten the screw by turning it clockwise the screw tends to pull the wire into the connection rather than pushing it out. This feature gives a pushing surface against which the hooked wire can be pushed to close the loop. You'd use this technique if the receptacle you are wiring does not include the factory-included pressure lug demonstrated above. But closing this wire hook or loop around the screw improves both the security of the electrical connection and increases the total contact area between the screw connector and the wire.
In all events unless your electrical device is being held in a vise the screw tightening-torque you can apply will be limited by the fact that you're usually holding the receptacle or switch in your other hand.
And for using some special connectors such as the aluminum wiring pigtail device, these torque specifications are critical to avoid failure.
It is way to much work for me to replace all of the downstairs wiring right to the breaker box, so I'm wondering if it is possible to add onto the existing wires and attach wire screws or marrets within the walls before I start adding drywall, or whether I should add some kind of junction box to contain the marreted wires in between. You can reduce the wiring work a little by using plastic boxes instead of steel - avoiding having to also connect the box to the ground wire.
You might carefully remove and re-route the existing wire lower in the wall or you might buy all new electrical wire - depending on the age and condition of the existing materials. The old outlet had stab wire connections for a black, white and RED wire in the top section. We do, however, often include photographs of as-is wiring as important illustrations of what's found in the real world - in the field. Cramer is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors and is a Florida home inspector and home inspection educator. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively.
Private investigators are now able to search for the names and addresses associated with VoIP phone number service.
Bestpeoplesearch is a private investigator portal and Information Retrieval Services web site where investigators offer searches to businesses and individuals with specific search needs. This article series describes how to choose, locate, and wire an electrical receptacle in a home. The LOAD terminals of that device are connected to hot and neutral wires that subsequently are connected to the next electrical receptacle in the series. Our photo above illustrates using a screw-clamp back-wire connector on an electrical receptacle. It makes sense, then, to actually look at these instructions given by the manufacturer, as not all strip gauges show the same strip-back quantity. The second of these approaches takes more time and appears to do no better than using the factory-included bending feature.
I don't see any difference, however in the contact area between using pliers or using the factory-provided bending stud available on some receptacles and switches.
The temptation is to just splice on an extension and bury that in the wall or ceiling: an illegal, improper, unsafe as well as really aggravating approach. I have tried to install the new outlet, using the screws as recommended, rather than the stab connections, and cannot make the top half work on the switch. You can break apart the tab on the white wire neutral side but those connections are going to be made common by a splice in the electrical box anyway. Even where home-owner electrical work is permitted, permits and electrical code and safety inspections are usually required.
The return wire from that switch then connects to the line-in or black wire or gold-colored screw on the receptacle.
Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Also tried the red & black on the same screw, red on the screw and black in the stab hole and the reverse.) How to I make the switch work?
Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material.
Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order.



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