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19.11.2013
Sainsbury's (UK supermarket) today issued a press release describing a new wine, 'Red Heart':"The antioxidant content of red wine is believed to play a role in the health benefits derived from drinking in moderation.
Played football again for the first time in a while last night, and remarkably I'm not too stiff today.
There have been a couple of recent scientific reports on resveratrol that have attracted a lot of interest. Another data point for the Chardonnay trail, an unofficial series of notes on examples of this variety that have been accumulating on my blog in recent weeks.This time it's off to Australia - the Piccadilly Valley of South Australia, to be precise. Last night saw the return of wine to prime time national televsion, in the form of Oz and James' Big Wine Adventure.
Heretical thought: until the Chilean wine industry can deal with the problem of greenness in red wines, I reckon its best hope is with its whites, which I'm increasingly growing fond of. Just got a press release from Sainsbury's which described Christopher Burr's new venture, secret sommelier, as the UK's most popular fine wine blog. Time to turn to something familiar - two wines that in previous vintages I've enjoyed a good deal.Quinta do Noval's unfiltered LBV has been (for me) the best value Port for a few vintages now.
My regular lunchtime walk - perhaps two or three times a week - is a circular route through Regent's Park. It seems a bit silly to develop affection for an unrewarding pet like a rabbit, but there was sadness in the Goode household last week when a fox took one of our rabbits and injured the other. The theme tonight was wine and food matching, which is a difficult topic because it reduces most wine commentators to either dogmatism or nonsense.
Red Heart has an antioxidant level, which is 32% higher than the average level of other leading red wines.We benefit from many different antioxidants naturally found in our food and drink, and they play an important role in protecting our body.
And this evening, quite by chance, I met one of my PhD supervisors for the first time in more than a decade. The maritime-influenced cool-climate Chilean wine region seems to be over-delivering massively at the moment. It's from the wild country north of the Douro, where some dude built a big house and then decided to plant a vineyard. Unlike Syrah, which is a big, bold, reductive variety, Grenache is a bit of a hide-in-the-background grape. What about this for a Sauvignon Blanc?Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Leyda Valley, ChileA hand-picked Sauvignon from a 70 hectare vineyard in sight of the sea, vinified in a new gravity-designed winery. It was one of those lovely late autumn days where the sunlight seems to make every colour super-saturated, and the cold makes the air feel fresher and denser at the same time. It was my first visit to this hallowed venue (see a nice article by Andrew Jefford on the Arches, and Harry Gill, its proprietor -pictured). They recently moved to Lidgate, home of famed gastropub 'The Star' - where I had an enjoyable couple of pints (Green King IPA) and a game of darts with my father last night.
I was uncomfortable with some of the content on Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall?s program The River Cottage Treatment last night?quite apart from the fact that it was contrived reality TV that didn?t work very well. It was around 10.30 pm at night, and I forgotten to put the rabbits back from their run into their hutch.
Goode combines technical expertise with vivid accounts of his travels and a nice bit of personal history besides - though he doesn'toverdo his own presence in his writing, as so many bloggers do."Sadly, it was Richard's last column.
Do their wines match up to the largely self-generated hype?I was sent through their two new 'Siren' wines. The truth is, most wine and food combinations work sort of OK - while there are a few clashes, and a few real synergies, a lot of the time you should drink what you feel like with your food. If it is fed to mice at reasonably high doses, it protects them from the negative effects of eating too much. It's the first release of the Tapanappa Chardonnay (2005), which comes from Brian Croser's Tiers vineyard (pictured), which until this year was used to make Petaluma Chardonnay (and in more recent years the single-vineyard Tiers bottling). This evening we tried the Leyda Garuma Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Leyda Valley, Chile, which has a massive grassy presence and superb concentration. Oz Clarke, a gifted taster who achieved a degree of celebrity status as wine expert on the Food and Drink Programme, has the task of convincing May that French wines are interesting. It makes wines that could be dismissed, on first impressions, as inconsequential and light. It's from Amayna in Chile's Leyda Valley, and is the sister wine of the impressive Sauvignon I reported on a few days ago. Two clones are used: 242, which adds structure and minerality, and Davis Clone 1 which adds fresh minerality.
There were eight of us, and Neal provided most of the wine, the balance of which we bought from Harry's wonderful list, with Harry joining us and contributing a couple of surprise bottles of his own. I'm sure searching from other countries would give different results, and I don't know how these search rankings are calculated. We visited Ickworth House on Saturday and today we went to Clare Castle Country Park (pictured - the railway station, now disused). The basic idea behind the program is a good one: take some regular punters whose diet mainly consists of ready meals and take-aways, and get them to cook ?real? food.
The 2000 is deeply impressive, but then the 1999 and 1998 were too: sealed with a driven cork it offers dense, reasonably complex, tannic, spicy fruit.
I find you have a couple of days where you can still taste well after the first signs of a cold, and then that's it for a few days. Free radicals are compounds that cause cell damage, which in the long term can damage health.
As a rather immature 21 year old I'd just finished my degree, got one of the five firsts that were awarded in the life sciences that year (which surprised a lot of people, including myself), and sort of fancied the idea of becoming a scientist (I was desperately ignorant of any other career options, to be honest). It's quite dramatic: these mice can eat a high fat diet that would normally kill them pretty sharpish, but when they are given a stiff resveratrol chaser with their rations, they don't get fat, don't develop diabetes, and consequently don't keel over prematurely.
He's cast as the 'wine ponce', and James begins by predicting, 'I think Oz will turn out to be quite an annoying man'.Oz concentrates on getting James to recognize smells he might later encounter in wines. But look a little deeper and you'll see that in fact these wines are multifaceted and thought provoking. On the drive home I finally tried out the cruise control function on the car, which we've now had for six months.
Seeing technology as a useful tool, he then sets about using his tool kit, which includes microoxygenation and reverse osmosis, to make more interesting and tasty wines.


But this time a fox broke in, and by the time I got outside to see what was happening it was too late for one bunny. I exaggerate: wine and food matching is quite interesting, it's just that so many people take it too seriously and end up looking silly. Exposure to UV rays, pollution and smoking produce free radicals.This is why moderate consumption of red wine and a healthy diet abundant in fresh fruit and vegetables can improve our health and increase longevity."B******s! Tony is one of those guys who is utterly likeable and easy to hang out with, and the thought of working for him, in a department I was already familiar with, was a very appealing one.
It seems that resveratrol hits a particular metabolic switch, giving you the benefits of dieting and excercise without actually doing either.As you can understand, this has got people pretty excited.
I feel the same way I would if I was due in work early, had forgotten to set the alarm, and had woken at 11 am.What have I done with my life so far? There's a gravelly minerality to the palate, which has tight dark fruits with a spicy kick, and plenty of tannins. They just take a bit of getting to know.I like Barossa Grenache a good deal, with my favourites including those from Troy Kalleske, Kym Teusner and Torbreck. It was great fun, but I don't feel up to submitting a full report just now - one will follow, with some pictures.
I managed to rescue the other, but the next day it was clear it had problems, and the vet confirmed this (broken tarsus). And for me, there's no point in drinking wine if I can't 'get' the wine, unless of course I have a pressing need to get drunk (which, fortunately is rare).This point about 'getting' a wine is an interesting one, philosophically.
All IMHO.The programme began with oysters, which are raised to a certain size, cemented to ropes in threes and then left in the water for a year before harvesting.
If red wine has health benefits, it is almost certainly not because of its antioxidant properties. It was great to catch up with him again - and almost bizarrely, it was because he was attending a lecture on the health benefits of moderate wine consumption.
As long as you drink a few glasses of resveratrol-rich wine, then you can carry on gorging yourself on fine French cuisine, and forget about pounding the pavements in an attempt to stem a bulging waistline and incipient type 2 diabetes.
James retorts by introducing a whistle which he christens 'the Ozzilator', destined to be blown whenever he deems Oz to be entering wine bore territory.The first wine stop is Bordeaux, and Pichon-Longueville Comtesse Lalande. Tonight I'm sipping one from Yalumba, described as a bush vine Grenache from 70 year old vines.
They took a burger and the food scientist chap prepared a row of bottles containing the ?chemicals? that had been added to it. This is one to stock up on and my prediction is that it will improve with a year or two in bottle.St Hallett's Gamekeeper's Reserve 2005 is a really interesting, affordable red. The vet seemed keen to treat the bunny, but with costs estimated at ?350+ we thought this was ludicrous.
They bottles are made from clear glass, but rather than have a standard punt at the bottom they've got a lovely solid sort of chunky glass foot to them.
It suggests we all think that there is an objective side to wine tasting: that there is something of the wine that is there to be 'got'. James gets frustrated with Oz who is talking oysters with one of the growers rather than eating them. I quickly reassured him that most of what he was about to hear was bollocks because of confounding (a rather brutal summary, but one with more than a grain of truth to it) and the best reason for drinking red wine is because it tastes nice and is mildly intoxicating.
It's a wine you can drink now, but rarely for Australian Chardonnay this will likely improve over the next 5-7 years, rather than just survive, and if I had a few bottles of this I'd not be tempted to crack them too early. Here the producers decide to tackle the drink-drive issue head on: James doesn't taste the wine at all.
But the facts speak for themselves: I was born in the season when Man City last won the 1st Division title (now the 'Premiership', of course). The punters were shown this row of chemicals (all of them white powders) and Hugh then asked a burger-eating chap how he felt about it.
A blend of Shiraz, Grenache and Touriga from the Barossa, it reminds me of Marc Kent's Porcupine Ridge Syrah. Irrespective of differences in perception, education, and cultural leanings, the wine itself possesses something that we strive to capture in our tasting.I digress. I do wish people would speak to someone knowledgable on wine and health issues before issuing this sort of disinformation.
Meeting Tony reminded me of how much I enjoyed my time as a PhD student - it would have been fun to work as an academic.Tonight I'm drinking Californian Pinot Noir. As an aside, the label design is lovely, and the cork is physically perfect - it's one of the best looking corks I've ever seen. Sensible enough, but it does make it rather hard for the poor chap to learn anything.Then we have the embarassing scene where Oz and James share a Jacuzzi of grape juice and are later hosed down wearing nothing but some rather odd-looking posing pouches.
It has to be 'old vine' or 'bush vine', or some other such laudatory descriptor, or people will probably just ignore it.
The guy looked fairly clueless, but on pressing by Hugh he sort of agreed how horrifying and disgusting it was. It's quite hard to learn to taste Port well (in this respect, it's a bit like Champagne - you need to practice lots, which is no hard task). One of my guilty secrets is that I've quite liked many of the Californian Pinots that I've tried. Next stop is Pichon Baron with a rather bemused Christian Seely and his wife, who serve three wines to our hosts. Rather than blend it with Shiraz and Mourvedre, I think there should be more straight varietal Grenaches made.This one has lovely pure, sweet red fruits with a silky texture and some earthy, grainy tannins. Hugh had more luck when the food scientist read the ingredients list on a Tikka Masala ready meal, because he found it contained E120 (cochineal). The key is not to be fooled by the fruit or the sweetness, but to look a little deeper, to the structure (at least when you are evaluating serious wines) .This one shows good concentration, lots of fruit, and a lovely spicy tannic structure.
We let the rabbits have run of the garden during the day, sometimes (it was tricky to catch them afterwards).So farewell bunnies. Visually, these wines are incredibly appealing, and despite what we'd like to believe, appearance matters a fair bit.The bottles are screwcapped, but Stormhoek have done their closures homework and the caps have the saranex-only liner.
After an abnormally warm October, November has seen the onset of some reassurringly cold weather, and even a bit of frost in the morning.


I guess Pinot Noir in California, despite the Sideways effect, hasn't been touched by quite the degree of pretension and price escalation that has bedeviled Californian 'Cabs'.
Here are James' comments:2001 Suduiraut - model aircraft dope1989 Pichon Baron - Trebor fruit salad (an old sweet)1988 Pichon Baron - Bonfire.
Hugh turned to a girl (whose intellect resembled Alice off the Vicar of Dibley) and triumphantly announced, ?That comes from beetles!? The girl obliged, a look of horror crossing her face, ?I?ve been eating beetles, ugh!? The irony that this is in fact a natural food colouring was lost on all of them.
No wine costing just ?5.99 (Waitrose, Thresher, Sainsbury, Co-op) ever deserved to be this tasty.
For the last few months I've been the only one who can handle them (they were biting Fiona and the boys, but not me), and I developed a mild affection for them despite their unfriendly nature. On the back label there is an innovative freshness indicator, telling punters when the wines will drink best.Reassuringly, it's not just style without substance. The wine this evening, to accompany some home-baked bread and a big slab of Comte, is a Maury.
We'll end up with out of focus shots of oysters soon!'James gets to choose a wine to match with oysters and comes up with a beautifully phrased analogy with baroque music. Look, I agree that it?s best to eat food that?s been messed about with as little as possible, but to use this sort of manipulative, fear-based propaganda about ?bad? food isn?t the way to go. From the far south of France, these are fortified wines made in a similar style to Port.Mas Amiel Vintage 2004 Maury, FranceBeautifully packaged, this is a fortified Grenache made by the addition of spirit to part fermented wine. If you are approaching Pinot Noir from a Burgundian perspective, then this is pumped up on steroids with bulging biceps and pecs that look like rather taut breasts. Professor Thomas Walle at the Medical University of South Carolina published a rather damning paper on this in 2004, in which he concluded that in humans very little dietary resveratrol gets to where it is needed in the body.
Tappanappa Whalebone Vineyard 2004 Wrattonbully, Australia is the second release of Brian Croser's new red wine, from a vineyard he first made wine from in the 1980s. Matured in old French oak, it doesn't have any noticeable oak influence beyond just a hint of sweet vanilla right in the background. After the tasting we headed over to Tendido Cero, one of my favourite eating places, where we ate and drank well (my choice - a bottle of the 2004 Finca Sandoval from Manchuela - dark, spicy and mineralic, with a bit of the new world and a bit of the old).Tonight's tipple is the dregs of one of the wines tried last night. It's not as alcoholic as Port - weighing in at 16% this is only a little stronger than many modern table wines - and it is made in a Vintage Port style, with the wine ageing for just a short period in cask before being bottled. But what I like about it is that it is savoury and quite complex, with a similar sort of flavour profile as an extremely cool climate mountain Syrah. Virginian tobacco.After a stunt where Oz drives a 2CV across a field with a basket of eggs on the passenger seat (they don't break), it's off to the Roussillon to pick grapes and try making wine. I reckon this is a reasonably serious wine, but one that needs to be drunk sooner rather than later. The result is a complex, vividly fruity wine with a nose of spicy, herby red and black fruits that leads to a palate with lovely vivid, spicily tannic red fruits that shows warmth and grip. Interstingly, the featured domaine is Matassa, which is run by Tom Lubbe and Sam Harrop (who I know well).Next stop is Provence, with Oz' brother, and then Oz and James try their hand at making their own wine from some supermarket grapes. The remarkable thing about this wine is that it is made without any addition of sulphur dioxide, the almost universally used wine preservative. It's quite perfumed, and for this reason I'd recommend it as a wine that will give lots of pleasure, but only if it's drunk relatively soon (in the next three years - my wild prediction is that beyond this it will descend into soft, spicy anonymity).
It's a very well mannered Pinotage and the trace of greenness works well in combination with the chocolatey richness.
Quite sweet, but this sweetness is well balanced by good acid and spicy tannins, so it is not at all cloying.
Marimar Estate Dona Margarita Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004 Sonoma Coast, CaliforniaFrom a 12 acre organic vineyard six miles from the Pacific, with 2340 vines per acre (high density) trained low.
They then present this wine blind at a market, with two other wines - one expensive and one cheap.
A thought-provoking wine that's drinking very well now but which will probably also age nicely into a mellow softness.
Almost everyone prefers the expensive wine, although one nutter opts for the bizarre homebrew.Overall, not a bad programme. Raw unpolymerized tannin has the ability to gobble tremendous quantities of oxygen when wine is young.
Oz has been away from telly long enough still to have some sincerity about him, and he remarks that James has 'moments of lucidity in the midst of his bombast'.The programme falters a bit with a Generation Game moment in a Michelin 2* restaurant when James gets to make a dessert. Aged in a mix of half new and half one year old French oak barrels for 11 months before being bottled unfiltered.
It's great to see wine on TV again, and given the constraints of making a wine show for newbies, this was pretty good. Concentrated, structured and stylish, I'd expect this to become aromatically much brighter over the next decade. A beneficial side effect of micro-oxygenation is the creation of a rich, light structure which integrates aromas. Then it's off to Pic St Loup (a region I have great affection for) where James gets to try his hand at food matching: the dish? This wine has a deep colour, with a nose of sweet dark cherry and blackberry fruit, complemented with a bit of spicy oak. This is going to keep the wine from smelling spoiled later on when the microbes have their party.Paradoxically, working properly with oxygen doesn't oxidize the wine -- rather it increases its ability to take up more oxygen. The chemistry of phenolic polymerization is well understood, and in this case, Vern Singleton's 1986 paper on the vicinyl diphenol cascade explains why polymerizing tannins become more reactive than their precursors. It's fresh, purely fruited and focused with some elegance, but it is currently quite primary and tannic, with a bit of high class oak evident. There's some aromatic purity and elegance, with sweet dark fruits that have a brooding depth to them. It's not a wine for everyone: some will find these bold, savoury flavours just a little too dangerous.



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