How to change oil pan gasket on 5.9 cummins,replacing the screen on iphone 5c,the secret life of pronouns online,secret chiefs 3 lyrics - PDF Books

The web's largest and most active community resource for Nissan and Infiniti owners and enthusiasts. Lastly, I used Castrol high mileage ATF and shifts are fine, not much different then before but then again I didn't really have any issues. You can hear it when you walk the streets, How many people they reach, How they use music to teach. TownCivilian - All of my bolts were the same length as well so I don't think you will have an issue. 740fizza wrote:TownCivilian - All of my bolts were the same length as well so I don't think you will have an issue. Did you guys see the posts about people changing or cleaning there MAF sensors and it changed how the QX was shifting? I used some gasket sealant to help the gasket stay in place while buttoning it back up, but it probably didn't really help much. I've got no leaks despite the overtightening - is it worth my time to go and retorque them to something like 13 ft lbs? How check transmission fluid ford 6r75 6r80 2007, How to check transmission fluid in ford 6r75 and 6r80 2007+ expedition, 2009+ f150, 2011+ mustang 6-speed automatic click to share on twitter (opens in new window) click to share on google+ (opens in new window). Copyright © 2012 Autos Weblog, All trademarks are the property of the respective trademark owners. Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions.
AlvinC answered a question about my Ford truck that only someone with an in-depth knowledge of his subject would have known what was going on. Because of your expertise, you armed me with enough ammunition to win the battle with the dealer.
I do know, after going though this with JustAnswer, that I can somewhat trust my mechanic but I will always contact you prior to going there. I would (and have) recommend your site to others I was quite satisfied with the quality of the information received, the professional with whom I interacted, and the quick response time. First thing I did once under the truck, was remove the one bolt from the driver side and passenger side motor mounts respectively. To raise my motor, after removing the two bolts that hold the motor down, I secured a come along to the rafter and the other end around the vibration dampener. If you don't have a rafter to secure a comealong to, or a cherry picker, you can raise the motor until it hits the firewall by using a bottle jack or a floor jack, and then cut out some wooden blocks to fit between the motor mount and the cross member and then lower the motor onto these spacers. If you do not plan on actually removing the oil pan, at this point, you are good to go, I will now show the next steps for removing the oil pump and thus allowing you to insert the new oil pan gasket. IF YOU ARE IN FACT DROPPING THE PAN THAN SIMPLY LEAVE THE PICK UP TUBE SECURED TO THE PUMP AND ONLY REMOVE THE ONE BOLT THAT SUPPORTS THE SCREEN PART OF THE PICK UP TUBE TO ONE OF THE MAIN BEARING CAP STUDS. Once the two bolts are removed from the oil pump, let the pump drop down into the pan, like you did with the pick up tube. I ended up removing the driver side header in order to give me more room to remove the oil pan.
The last time I did this I had the stock set up and ended up zip cutting the cross over pipe and simply rewelding it after the job was completed. The clearance is sooo limited, just to gain that extra little bit of clearance, I removed a bolt from the cross member.
So now that I've cleaned the mating surfaces, I have the new steel cored rubber gasket installed. Once the pan is through the tight squeeze and resting on the cross member, re-install the plastic clips.
If you did not remove the oil pan, what you have to do is move the gasket, starting from the front of the block between the block and the oil pan and past the main bearings and connecting rods, until you reach the rear of the block. Because I removed the pan, I have assembled my pump and new pick up tube and dropped it into the oil pan. If you did not remove the pan, then you have to slide the pick up tube into the pan, followed by the oil pump. So anyways, now that you have that shaft in the oil pump (with the tapered part of the shaft facing upwards) carefully guide it up through an opening in the block, which is out of sight, and using the oil pump bolt holes as a guide, get that shaft into the distributor.
Now reach into the pan and pretty much using one hand, bolt the screen part of that pick up tube, to the stud on that main bearing, loosely .
Now, because the first time I ever did this, I missed the distributor, put it aaaaaalllllll together to see ZERO oil pressure when I started up the motor. After reconnecting everything and installing a new oil filter and adding new oil, refilling the rad, I start up my motor and with my fingers crossed, I look for no oil leaks.
I hope this is helpful to anybody out there who is going to attempt one or both of these gasket replacements. Nope, I didn't prime it, it is the one I bought for the motor around 30,000 km ago and I didn't prime it then.
What really sucks, besides having to replace all these gaskets, is I burned my thumb on a piece of molten steel (you know those little balls that spray off while you are welding) on thursday so I am basically doing this with one hand.

I will now start removing a lot of what you see here to allow me to remove the valve covers.
I am not only using the reuseable gaskets but I am going to add silicone, and loctite for the bolts to be sure. Just a note, I used steel wool with the reducer to get the backed on stuff off but it took little effort. After the belt is removed I remove the already loostened bolts to allow me to remove the fan and the pulley behind it. Next I removed the upper hose which supplies coolant to the throttle body and unplug the egr valve. At the center of the intake manifold, on the pas side you can see the other end of the egr pipe. After you have unplugged all the injectors, temp sensors, AC, oil sender, distributor and whatever else you can see, including this knock sensor at the rear pas side of the motor, you can carefully remove the wiring.
I went and painted my valve covers and while they are drying I went back to the heads to remove the crappy cork gaskets.
If I still had my big bumber mounted on my truck, I probably wouldn't have removed the rad and such.
On 4WD models anyway, towards the front side of the pan, there are two clips holding in a couple of hard lines, going into the transmission. As for torque, I used the good ol' German "goood-en-tite' specs Thanks for that bit of info. But I wasn't sure if they changed the pan between 4x4 and 2wd tranny or not.Does that mean there are 2 types of gasket and filters out there?
Not knowing the torque spec, I probably overtightened the pan bolts a little and the sides of the gasket squeezed out somewhat and the sealant is visible.
I also added recommendations for adding an in-line Magnefine transmission filter, as well as other fluid exchange options (a simple drain and fill, or cooler line fluid exchange) at the top of the post. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. Avoiding cork for the replacement gasket and using the one piece rubber gasket, will save you from another weekend of wrenching to do the same job prematurely. You will note, the pull is at a slight angle and to prevent the come along from sliding towards the hood of my truck and damaging it, I secured a bessey clamp on the rafter to prevent this.
You have to remove this first, because the pump and the tube will not come out as one unit, it has to be brocken apart.
Then starting with the pick up tube, remove it, it will take some articulation but it will come out and then remove the oil pump the same way. If you still have the stock set up, you will have a cross over pipe connecting or rather welded to the passenger side exhaust pipe. I prefer this method simply because you avoid the risk of breaking any exhaust bolts which are notorious for breaking upon removal.
In order to get that extra bit of room in order to allow me to remove the pan, I had my dad with a vey large pry bar up top, prying the motor towards the rear at the driver side motor mount, where in this case it was a bit lower than the passenger side. They come with these nifty plastic clips which thread into the block, thus keeping the gasket in place. Now, you have just picked up a bunch of oil along the way, so you have to be sure you remove all that oil residue before you install the plastic clips. I purchased a new pick up tube because it is recommended to replace it, when the old pick up tube has many many miles on it.
Then bolt the pick up tube to the oil pump, torque it down and then torque the nut on the stud. So this time, what I did once the pump and tube were bolted, I put a wrench on the vibration dampener bolt, slipped my head up so that I can clearly see the oil pump drive shaft and turned the motor over.
I used the reuseable high performance valve cover gaskets and torqued the bolts to spec and rewired and installed everything in the reverse order of removal. I was planning on removing the pan to make a better inspection of everything, but I wasn't able to remove it last night. Then using a pair of slip joint plyers I will squeeze the plastic clip on the sides which will allow me to slide the cable through the bracket.
This step is not needed, but I prefer to have that extra room to work on dismatling the rest of the motor. I've got no leaks so far and the hard line I forgot to bracket back in is just fine, too.I also notice that the shift from 1st to 2nd is rather hard (but still seems to shift faster than before) sometimes, but I believe that's just how the car is from what I've read. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. So with my dad prying at this point it not only raised the motor a bit more, but it also pushed the motor and tranny back so that I just had enough room to remove the pan.
The plastic clips are also designed to allow the pan to slide over the clips and at about an inch below the block, locks the pan in place just below the block. DON'T FORGET THE GASKET But here is the tricky part, you have to install the distributor to oil pump drive shaft with the retaining clip towards the top (this prevents the shaft from being pulled out of the oil pump and falling into the pan when removing the distributor. I'm always trying acetone on stuff and quick start alcohol spray, but neither works as good as what you're using.

The problem is they rust quit badly on the side which connects to the hard lines and these cheap bolts have a tendency to have their heads snapped off rendering them useless. No idea why the first post said 7 quarts, unless I did something wrong IMO it's rather difficult to read the dipstick. I'll need to slide under my truck to see which gasket lining-patterns it follows.By the way - did anyone use gasket sealant or liquid gasket to the tranny to make sure no leaks?
I did get stuck in the mud recently and I did put a lot of strain on the transmission - high revs in reverse and other gears. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles.
You are basically doing all this re&re of the bolts for the pick up tube and the oil pump blind. I took a closer look at the pan and I'm 99 % sure the oil leak is coming from the rear of the pan.
Do I pull it out, wipe it off, then insert it all the way or just until the rubber stopper hits the metal clamp thing, then read that? JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals. The tricky part is putting them back in and getting the front bolts started, it's very easy to cross thread the front pan bolts since it's so tight there.
Though how will I make sure the gasket stays in place while I'm trying to reinstall the pan? Nonetheless, $20 for some Valvoline Maxlife ATF from AAP after online discount is very cheap insurance! I'm almost certain there's enough fluid in there right now though as I filled at least as much as I drained if not slightly more, but it never hurts to make sure.My pan's magnet had some sludgy black stuff all over it, along with a fair bit of metal fuzz. My PSF also smells a little burnt, and I did the turkey baster method using 3 pints of Genuine Nissan PSF (what a rip off) and for a while it smelled perfect.
And as far as I can see, you can only really use an open end wrench on some of them since it's so tight. I don't know how that could have become burnt so quickly either, but $9.78 for a gallon of Valvoline PSF (vs. Filter looked ok, just some small metal flakes visible in the screen, and its exterior was dark grey with dirt or something as can be seen in the first post in one of the pictures (I thought it was painted grey, heh). Finally, i too did not have the torque specs to the pan bolts so i just tightened them to the point of minimal resistance then i stopped. The fluid was pink on the dipstick pre-change, but during draining and in the pan it reeked pretty badly as old PSF would. It should downshift on it's own per the speed you are going, right?My fluid has been changed before, by just draining the fluid and puting new fluid back in, but I wonder if the filter is clogged, causing the pressure in the tranny to be lower then it should.
Then again, I think someone above said this is not really a filter, but more a does this mean that it's not really possible to clog up a filter like this one? This change was done at 120,340 miles; no idea whether transmission fluid was changed before.740fizza, I had no issue with removing those brackets (hooray for Florida), but I forgot to reclip them when reinstalling the pan! Also, I noticed that the two pan bolts that hold those brackets are slightly longer than the rest; Nissan just gave me 18 of all the same size.
The lines in question are supported by brackets on either side of the pan too, so is it really necessary to go buy two slightly longer bolts and install these brackets?I did use gasket sealant (not that gasket-in-a-tube stuff) on the pan itself, then stuck the gasket on and aligned it with the screw holes. I guess it stopped the gasket from sliding around too much while my friend held the pan up, but maybe it was completely useless. It has always done what I explainaed above and it's has not gotten any worse or better.Joe. Hope the sealant won't cause any issues.I was unable to find the torque spec for the pan bolts themselves in the FSM, so we tightened the bolts hand-tight with a socketed screwdriver then until resistance was felt with a ratchet. Not only that, but we had to back out a couple bolts that were cross-threaded, which made the orange sealant flake off.
I assume that if one of those bolts causes a leak, I can just buy a new bolt and swap it out? Though I think that if the gasket seals properly the bolts won't be an issue; I've read that people just clean and re-use the old bolts. I tightened the filter to just before I couldn't tighten anymore, after cleaning off the four bolts with brake cleaner.The entire process took us about 3 hours to do. We didn't ramp or jack up the car, since I could fit under there easily (I'm rather small), though my friend didn't have such an easy time. I think if we had ramps it would've been somewhat quicker since there's more room to work with.

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