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12.05.2015
But Ferrari is just one of 39 wineries making TrentoDOC, which by definition is a bottle-fermented sparkling wine made from a choice of four grapes (chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot bianco, pinot meunier) grown on the mountainsides of Trentino, an alpine region in northern Italy with Trento as its capital.
TrentoDOC faces a second Goliath inside Italy: Prosecco, which now amounts to 150 million bottles.
TrentoDOC, in contrast, comprises three disparate subgroups that have only recently begun coordinating efforts. The third group comprises the tiny wineries that farm tiny plots (the majority under 2.5 acres) and bottle miniscule amounts.
Being an heirless workaholic, Ferrari ultimately sold the firm in 1952 to the Lunelli family, owners of a wine shop in Trento. With 90 percent of Ferrari production consumed in Italy, bottles arena€™t always easy to come by.
Roberta Giuriali Stelzer begins a walkaround at her winery, Maso Martis, by naming the surrounding peaks as if theya€™re associates needing introductions: a€?Therea€™s Paganella, and behind the cypresses is Monte Bondone,a€? says the pixie-haired proprietor, who established Maso Martis in 1990 together with her winemaker husband, Antonio.
Thirty hectares of vines make Maso Martis one of the larger wineries at the small end of the scale.
As we walk through their cellar, trailed by the family dogs, ita€™s clear that wea€™re in a boutique world.
Tasting these sparklers al fresco on a sunny June daya€”the table laden with strawberries, mountain cheese, millefiori honey, and breadsticks made crunchy with chardonnay seedsa€”ita€™s hard to imagine a better time or place to drink TrentoDOC. Even though Trentinoa€™s metodo classico tradition is the oldest in Italy, Franciacorta, made in neighboring Lombardy, has better name recognition as an Italian luxury sparkler. Statistics only begin to describe Trentino: 80 percent of the region is over 1,900a€™, which makes this a true mountain area. In the vineyards, there are both classic pergolas and newer guyot, reflecting a shift in vine training thata€™s evident in much of Trentinoa€“Alto Adige.
Some 300 million bottles of the worlda€™s most glamorous bubbly roll off the line each year. Therea€™s the family-owned Ferrari, which makes 4.5 million bottlesa€”about half the entire production.


Wea€™re now seeing some of these little guys take their first tentative steps towards the U.S. Ferrari believed that chardonnay would excel on Trentinoa€™s mountain slopes, where the sunny days and chilly nights would provide optimal conditions for sparkling-wine grapes. It was their second generation that transformed the operation in the 1970s and a€™80s, acquiring vineyards, tripling production, and adding labels, including the top-of-the-line Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore, a blanc de blancs (pure chardonnay) that ages 10 years on the lees (yeast in the bottle) and is widely considered the pinnacle of Italian sparklers.
A vertical tasting going back to the 1980s shows a splendid evolution that meets expectations at this tier, with the primary flavors of tart apple gradually being supplanted by biscuity notes, then complex tertiary aromas of sherry, truffles, and wet earth. After getting an enology degree at San Michele alla€™Adige, the budding winemaker went to France.
But its largest producer is not: Ferrari, now 111 years old, makes the sparkling wine that has launched ships, showered soccer champions, feted fashion designers, celebrated movie premieres, and enlivened red-ribbon ceremonies for generations. Instead of those fine string-of-pearls bubbles that result from methode champagnoise (called metodo classico in Italy), you get ephemeral sea foam, the product of the cheaper Charmat method, where secondary fermentation happens in tanks. But the producers there coalesced as a collective marketing unit soon after the whole enterprise took off in the 1960s. Then there are the large cooperatives, each with a TrentoDOC label among their brands: Mezzacoronaa€™s Rotari, La Visa€™s Cesarini Sforza, and Cavita€™s Altemasi. It protects us when storm and hail comea€”which they do, because of thermal excursion generated by the mountains. But they also keep some for themselvesa€”enough to make 60,000 bottles, 45,000 of which are TrentoDOC. With a mindset more like Milan entrepreneurs than alpine farmers, they understood the value of promotion. It takes a month to turn every bottle,a€? she says, describing the riddling or remulage process that knocks the dead fermentation yeast down into the neck of the bottle for later removal. But pinot noir makes up 30 percent of Maso Martis Brut ($39), Demi-Sec, and DosaggioZero (their a€?bikini wine,a€? Stelzer calls it: a€?with no liqueur da€™expedition to cover up flaws, you must be perfect, with nothing to hidea€?). She might not know ita€™s made only in a specific region of northern France, nor that it involves a laborious second fermentation inside the bottle to create the bubbles, but by golly, she knows that Fred Astaire drank it and ita€™s the New Yeara€™s Eve toast par excellence.


It constitutes 70 percent of the Brut Riserva ($49), which spends six months in barrique and five years on the leesa€”well beyond the 36 months required.
It was certainly not common for a young man from Trento to go abroad and study in Montpellier, visit the Champagne area, then go to Germany to specialize in the study of yeast. At $13, Rotaria€™s Brut, for instance, blows any prosecco out of the water, with its nutty-toasty notes, enduring perlage, and uplifting acidity. All vintage or millesimato sparklers, these too are serious wines, but they also offer the fun of having a€?a Jacuzzi in your mouth,a€? as one winemaker put it. A  I learned something from every man I met or exchanged emails with, and Lou taught me a few words in Spanish.A  Ole! We can take a little walk, maybe get our feet wet, and then lie on a blanket and listen to the waves.
I do the same thing myself, when the mood strikes.A  And how about this for being an "in tune with women" kinda guy?A  A few days after I had ordered myself 2 new green dresses and several in black to add to my collection from a mail order company named Newport News, he sent an email asking:A  "So, what are you wearing right now?
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Dramatic, but no drama.A  Short black skirt, or long black dress?A  Heels or boots?A  Camo, or commando? Until then, as in the end,there is much more to come.A A A  Once Upon a Time, a little mushroom popped through the moss covered ground of the Southeast Alaska Rainforest. Grant, Attorney at Law, Juneau, AK From Wedding Bells to Tales to Tell: The Affidavit of Eric William Swanson, my former spouse AFFIDAVIT OF SHANNON MARIE MCCORMICK, My Former Best Friend THE AFFIDAVIT OF VALERIE BRITTINA ROSE, My daughter, aged 21 THE BEAGLE BRAYS! HELL'S BELLS: THE TELLS OF THE ELVES RING LOUD AND CLEAR IDENTITY THEFT, MISINFORMATION, AND THE GETTING THE INFAMOUS RUNAROUND Double Entendre and DoubleSpeak, Innuendos and Intimidation, Coercion v Common Sense, Komply (with a K) v Knowledge = DDIICCKK; Who's Gunna Call it a Draw?




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