American trestle table woodworking magazine website,how to make a double barn door,wood joints in construction 2014 - PDF 2016

19.01.2016
The long stretcher between the end assemblies is what will keep this table from racking along its length, so this joint needs to be carefully fit.
The trick is to define the shoulder of the joint accurately with the help of a fence clamped to your work. Now you can assemble the entire base using the same routine you used to join the feet to the legs. With the base assembled, there are likely going to be some parts that aren’t perfectly aligned. Adding the corbels to the stretcher greatly simplifies cutting the detail and fitting the tenon. For the prototype, I made the top using the air-dried cherry boards I mentioned at the beginning of the article.
Again, this isn’t a show surface, so you don’t need to worry about planing across the grain; just get everything flush and in the same plane. Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years. Once you build one, you will also realize that they are an engineering marvel and a clear precursor to the invention that built our skyscraper cities: the I-beam. And the trestle form frequently looks quite fragile, which seems at odds with the fact that these tables are typically the centerpiece of a casual dining area. For many years, I’ve wanted to build a trestle table to replace the store-bought, white-pine apron table my wife and I got soon after college. But if I hated our dining table, then I was equally afraid of the trestle table I wanted to build, which looked narrow, tippy and ready to collapse, so I put it off for 15 years. I left Pleasant Hill that evening during a spectacular thunderstorm, but the fireworks over Harrodsburg, Ky., didn’t catch my eye. After a few hours of CAD work on my laptop, I had another small revelation: These tables require remarkably little material. To keep your hands as far away from the dado stack as possible, use a fence with a stop on your miter gauge to set your cut.
After a week of waiting, the boards were all within a couple points of equilibrium and construction could begin. The feet, legs and braces are each made up of two pieces of pine that have been face-glued together to create 21?2″-thick pieces. CUSTOM MADE & DESIGN and other trademarks, service marks, and designs are the registered or unregistered trademarks of CustomMade, Inc. The redwood for this beautiful table came from a water tower that was built in the late 1800's in south eastern PA.
This is the Tables for the Kitchen and Dining Room category of information.Kitchen tables and dining room tables are basically treated as the same living space in the last couple half century. Table, Dining - Sleek Metal top  How to make a contemporary indoor-outdoor table with a galvanized metal top.
Table, Extendable Mission Style  This extension table should be made of some hard wood, preferably white oak. Table, Floating-Top  The top of this Arts and Crafts-inspired dining table appears to hover above the tapered legs and contrasting slats of the base. Table, Kitchen  This kitchen table is about 12 years old and belongs to my daughter - I customized the table and built the two benches so they nest beneath the table.
Table, Kitchen  Translated from a German wood discussion forum web site, this beautiful table with pull out drawers has a free downloadable file. Table, Kitchen  A master shows you how to use your most beautiful boards to build a kitchen table that seats six comfortably. Table, Round  My dad had built me a round kitchen table for the house I had bought just the year before. Table, Rustic  This large pine table has natural edges and imperfections which are evidence of the living tree from which it came.
Table, Serving - Collapsible (PDF)  Throughout the centuries, this simple design, known as a trestle table, took many ornate forms, but our version returns to basics.
Table, Shaker (PDF)  A two page PDF document with section drawings and metric measurements to build a shaker style table with tapered legs. Table, Stretcher Base  This article shows how stock components were easily modified to get custom results.


TwitterContact us if you want us to link to your free woodworking plans or if you want to advertise on this web site. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. This large cherry dining table measures 75" x 46" until the three 12" insert leaves are added. The simple lines and beautiful antique heart pine make this 7'6" x 36" country dining table quite elegant.
This beautiful table is made entirely of three antique walnut pieces that have been air-dried for over 50 years. The work is under control at all times and it’s easy to keep your digits away from the knives.
Lay them out, then work from both ends to the middle, which will eliminate blowing out your grain. I wouldn’t recommend trying this with a router that has a round base plate – a flat area on the base is more accurate. Use light sawing pressure and work around all sides of the joint to keep the saw cutting true. If you are not going to paint your base, be sure to carefully match the grain so the corbel and stretcher look like they are one piece. You want the top surfaces of the base to be in the same plane, though that’s a challenge to achieve during glue-up. For the project shown on the cover, I asked Senior Editor Robert Lang to make the top because he was writing the story on splines in this issue. It might look brighter than what you expect from Shaker furniture, but it’s likely dead-on.
I cringe (and then marvel) at how my 5-year-old gymnast can vault herself off its edge while the whole thing stays rooted. They show up in Gothic churches, prim pilgrim homes and in severe, stripped-down Shaker meeting halls. Still, despite their spare charm and long history, there are some things about the dimensions of trestle tables that don’t conform to our typical expectations for tables.
But when you look at the historical record, the widths of trestle tables are, quite literally, in your face. They show up in taverns, meeting halls and other communal dining rooms, and the surviving examples exhibit the marks and scars of heavy use. The pine apron table was a testament to everything I disliked about commercial furniture: The top was pieced together using narrow, knotty and poorly matched boards. But during a recent day trip to the Shaker Village at Pleasant Hill, Ky., I sat at the tables there. The joinery in surviving trestle tables is remarkably robust: usually wedged or pegged through-tenons. To ease construction, I milled the mortises in the feet and legs before face-gluing these components together. From a traditional place to sit down and eat, to being a office space and a place to watch the kids do homework while you work in the kitchen. It will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid pieces of clear stock. My dad likes to build things rather massive, and the base for this round table was especially massive.
Its two pedestals are secured to a horizontal stretcher with stout tenons, locked in place by wedges. Importantly, they are easy to disassemble, which is helpful in getting giant tables delivered and installed with ease.
Many a settler took stock of his fortunes and made plans for a new life seated at one of these small tables. If you want some extra insurance, add a couple clamps across the foot and brace to snug things up. At almost 5′ long, it’s too lengthy to wrestle over the table saw (without special equipment).
Don’t waste away the area that will be later removed with a handsaw at the top of the stretcher – you need this material to support the base of the router.


I actually found this easiest to do with the stretcher laid on low sawhorses and one knee holding it in place while I sawed. For details on applying a painted finish, see “How to Paint Furniture Like a Professional” on page 30. It is so lightweight that I can lift the end of the 8′-long prototype with two fingers to vacuum up bits of macaroni and cheese. The version shown here, which now graces our magazine’s office, keeps the editors close at hand as we plan the next issue.
They are a form of furniture that has been boiled down to its bare bones – take any one part away, and a trestle table will surely collapse. For the tabletop, I had set aside two flitch-cut cherry boards from a local farm that were each about 18″ wide, if you measured the bark. Fully acclimated yellow pine usually reads about 9 percent moisture content (MC) in our shop. This technique allows you to mill the mortises with a saw (such as a table saw, band saw or handsaw) instead of a boring machine, and it results in more accurate joinery.
When he heard the Air Force base in Mississippi had a well equipped wood shop, it became a no brainer; bring the wood with him, After building a canoe, he decided to sell some which I was only too happy to buy. Each piece can stand on its own or can be designed as part of a collection of matching or complementary furniture.
For the prototype table, I used a tenon saw, but because the joint and stretcher are both huge, securing the work and sawing to the line was a challenge.
Then clean up the shoulder with a block plane and chisel and begin to fit the tenon in its mortise.
Drill clearance holes through the braces and ream them out to allow the top to expand and contract. I like the narrow width; eating and entertaining is a far more intimate affair because of it. I had purchased these cherry boards green for about $90 and had been drying them in my shop – I thought they were quite the bargain.
Cutting up the 2 x 12s wet does two things: First, it speeds their drying by exposing end grain – most of the moisture enters and leaves wood through the end grain. If the veneering is properly done these will serve the purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to the white-pine core, being an advantage.
So we struck a compromise and built another table together, this one based on my own design.
However, if you are going to drawbore the joint, you should drawbore the tenon first and then wedge it – not the other way around. I tried a couple other techniques that combined hand and power tools, but in the end, the best solution was to use a router with a straight bit, followed by a handsaw. There’s plenty of room for the place settings, but the narrow width brings an unexpected, welcome closeness. Second, it helps squeeze the maximum thickness out of the parts – bows, cups and crooks are minimized by cutting a larger board into smaller pieces. And the two end assemblies attach to the stretcher with a big pegged and wedged through-tenon.
The circular facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the circle of the size wanted and then veneering the outer surface of this.
The pegs add an interesting detail, and were commonly used instead of glue when these tables were originally made. We usually expect muted tones from the Shakers, but those somber colors are probably the result of fading and patina from age. We had very specific and out of the usual size requirements, and needed fast delivery for Holidays.



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