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27.02.2014
You can build heavy duty shelves by using stronger brackets, or you could use regular brackets for regular shelves. The storage shelves can be built in any room, but in this project we installed them in a small closet under the stairs.
In our case, we dealt with two different types of walls: on one hand there was a wall made out of drywall, as on the other hand the other wall was made of bricks. For the drywall, we used special dowels and screws, as for the wall made of bricks we used concrete drill bits, dowels and screws, as you can find out by reading this article. In addition, it is essential to use a good masonry drill bit when making holes in concrete.
We choose to build the shelves out of wood boards, as we consider that they are very resistant, and in the same time they look very good.
In addition, we used 2×2 lumber to build the brackets we need, in order to install the shelves. If you want to obtain a perfect result, then we kindly advise you to use a laser level, which is perfect for aligning the brackets.
In this image, you cannot see the real laser line, as we used flashes which diminished the intensity of the laser beam, but we can assure you that the investment in a laser level is well worth it. Nevertheless, if you don’t have this tool, you can still align the brackets by using a regular level, but it will take more time and the process will be a little more complex, as you have to take more measurements.
Pay attention and do not underestimate the importance of this step, because it represents the core of the project.
The drill machine must be hold with one hand like a gun, with the index finger on the start button. In order to install the dowel, you need a drill with torque control and a special drill bit.
After you have finished installing the dowels in the drywall, you have to secure the bracket shelves with screws. If you have to install the brackets in concrete, then you have to drill holes, and then insert dowels for concrete. With your other hand hold the drill’s handle firmly, in order to have greater control.
In order to protect the dowel, we hit it on top with several light strokes, until the dowel is totally inserted in the floor’s surface. The first step is to measure the needed dimension of the shelf, by using a tape measurement. This step is essential to be made properly, otherwise the shelf won’t align in the closet. Firstly, place the second wood board, such as the jig saw’s blade to be exactly on the cut line at both ends.
After you have finished installing the first shelf, you should start building the next one.
In order to determine the position of the new shelf, use a measurement tape to determine the distance.
If you need heavy- duty shelves, you can use both stronger brackets, as well as stronger shelves. If you use wooden shelf brackets, you can apply a water-based primer, and after that a paint at your choice. The brackets should be parallel and perfectly aligned, otherwise you won’t be able to store anything on your new shelves.
After you have installed the wall shelf brackets, verify again if they are well fixed, and then pursue to install the wood shelves. We managed to finish this project in a couple of hours, so it shouldn’t be hard to build wall shelves, if you have a plan before start working. If you will paint the wall shelves, we recommended you to buy laminate shelves instead of wooden shelves, from the very beginning, as they come cheaper and in a great variety of colors. Thank you for reading our article on how to build and install wall shelves and we recommend you to check out the rest of our furniture projects.
And though it is possible to buy floating wall shelves from discount design stores like IKEA, building your own isn’t that difficult. To build your own wall shelving units, you need less than a day’s time and about a handful of supplies. For the complete guide on how to build beautiful lighting fixtures, check out this tutorial by Family Handyman.
And of course, for all your lumber needs for projects big and small, come stop by Schutte Lumberyard.
Natalie Myers added this to Architectural Salvage Stakes a ClaimWest Elm delivers salvaged wood shelving so you don't have to scour for that perfectly weathered yet strong and straight piece.
I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible. I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now. Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items. Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths. The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row. Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need. As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support. After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s).
For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level.
It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall. As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids!
One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself).
Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap.
I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall.
What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side? I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams. The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage.
I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind. With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them. If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up.
I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are. You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time. I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement. I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be.


In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves. As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards. Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you!
We wanted a small display shelf for between our canning cabinet and buffet hutch in our dining room. Floating ledge shelves are great because they allow you to change pictures, candles and decorations without the need to remove nails, screws or hangers each time.
A few weeks back – we had a short tutorial on how to quickly disassemble a pallet to get a nice stash of ready-to-use boards.
With your front shelf ledge board attached – now its time to assemble the back board.
At this point  you can either leave your shelf rustic, or apply a coat or two of stain or paint to the wood. Place a thin strip of wood glue or construction adhesive on the side of the main shelf board. This decorative wall shelf made from scrap materials can add a touch of elegance to any room.
Rip a piece of 1” x 3” lumber down the middle at a 45° angle to create two matching cleats to hold the shelf to the wall.
Attach one of the cleats to the back of the shelf inside the box with the bevel facing down.
Attach the second cleat to the wall, using screws into studs and additional anchors in drywall or plaster, with the bevel facing up. On the 28” piece, cut 45-degree angels on each end and only one 45-degree angle on each end of the 7” piece. For added strength, apply a thin layer of wood glue to the joints before nailing them together. To complete the look of the shelf, use crown molding, approximately 3 ?” wide and wrap around the sides and front edge.
You can follow comments to this article by subscribing to the RSS news feed with your favorite feed reader. Looks beautiful but too complicated for those without all the tools you have in your cache.
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Learn to build your own shelves, by reading our step by step guide and pay attention to our tips. Write down the dimensions of shelves, the distance between them, so that you can make a simplified sketch and a preliminary budget for the project. In the center of the picture you can notice the screws that we will use to install the brackets.
However, if you want to build heavy-duty shelves, you must install metal brackets, which support more weight and are more resistant. You probably couldn’t imagine a curved shelf, so keep in mind this aspect, when doing measurements and holes. These are extremely useful and handy tools, as you get better control and more precise cutting than with other types of saws. For proper holes use a good wood drill bit, and try to drill on the median line of the lumber, as to avoid cracking the wood. However, it is better to use the pencil, as you can miss the mark, while you get the drill machinery. In this image you can see the drywall, in which we installed a special dowel, made for this material. The rubber hammer is lined up with the dowel, as not to injure yourself or damage the dowel. We used a jig saw, with a sharp and fine blade for wood, two c-clamps and another wood board with a straight line edge.
Afterwards, you should align the bracket using the same method described above: either a laser level or a regular level. However, do not hurry throughout the project, as you can make mistakes, or even injure yourself.
Do not assume you will figure it out during the project, because things just don’t work like that.
Don’t forget to share our articles with your friends, by using the social media widgets. You custom wall shelves can be built to your exact specifications, as well the finish that complements your room best. The best part of building your own shelves is that in one go, you can build wall shelves for all the rooms you need them for and still make them uniquely different to each room. With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment.
Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves.
I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items.
If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall. I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall). For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart. This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design). Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are). Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall. Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall.
After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side. With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials. My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run. Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ? I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength. These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal. It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money! You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion. If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams. Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling. Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor. I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end.


For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams. You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams. For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that. They are particularly practical because they can be placed anywhere there is a little free space and this includes areas with no free floor space.
Interlocking beveled cleats allow the shelf to attach securely to the wall without any visible means of support. Cut the angles so, when fitted together, you wind up with three sides of a box that is 7” deep. On a table saw, tilt the blade to 45-degrees and split the 1 x 3 lengthwise in identical pieces. In addition to posting comments on articles and videos, you can also send your comments and questions to us on our contact page or at (800) 946-4420. The wall shelves can be easily installed in a closet or in any other room and you can deposit on them books, boxes, shoes, clothes, toys or even tools. In addition, do not insert the screw too much in the hole, because it might damage the wood board. Afterwards, the speed should be increased, but at every few seconds pull the drill slightly out and press it back in again, not to block it in concrete.
Last but not least, fix the whole setup either with the help of someone else, or by using other clamps and two sawhorses. Easy to install, they take up no floor space, yet offer all the convenience of a traditional shelf.
In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed.
I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last. I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…). Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud. The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height).
I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up. You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength.
This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support. Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4. I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place.
I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them. I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily. Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have. You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall. Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying.
As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation. Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on? I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf.
At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement. Another interesting thing about them is that they come in all shapes and sizes and some of them have really creative and fun designs. When you’re ready to hang the shelf, place the other half of the split 1 x 3 on the wall with the flat edge facing down and the angled side facing the wall.
In this article we show you how to build wall shelves in a small closet under the stairs, but they can be installed in virtually any room. Do not forget to use a sand paper to smoothen the edges, after you have cut the 2×2 lumber. This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height. Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks. Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it.
I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal. I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support. Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in. Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame.
Take one of the split pieces and nail it just inside the box with the flat edge facing the top and flush with the back. My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet.
If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s. Cylindrical wall shelves.View in galleryWhen we think of a wall-mounted shelf we almost always envision a flat piece of wood, metal or other material. The pointed side of the angle should also be flush with the back, and the angle’s edge will be facing inside the box.
This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall. I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. Center the top over the box, keeping the one long end that was not routed flush with the back of the box, which is the long edge with no side. They are cylindrically-shaped shelves that come in several sizes and thay can be combined in any way you like. The Typeshelf.View in galleryThis is a wall shelf that actually spells its designating term. Modular shelf by Giulio Parini.View in galleryView in galleryEven though shelves are every practical and functional, when you think about it, you actually don’t even need a sturdy, compact surface to store your books or other objects on.
He experimented with this idea and created this minimalist system consisting of only a few iron rods and connectors.



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