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I've been reading a lot lately about "modders": people who modify industrially-produced objects such as cars, bikes, clothes, and now PC cases.
It's interesting that places like Central Computer, that have been nerd-havens for so long, are now catering to a new kind of nerdism.
You people commenting obviously did not go to the site link, the video shows it all, including the external SATA drive. 2) I'm not sure how oil could affect this in the long term, but it could be acidic or corrosive in some respect. I might do this sometime soon, but I'll stick to my air cooling for now, even if it means dealing with a bit of humming. A lot of the computer mods we’ve featured here on VCTB are fairly extreme, and possibly beyond the skills of the beginner. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Introduction Over the past months I have been using a couple of mice, the Logitech G303, Razer Deathadder Chroma + Taipan, Mionix Naos 7000 and the great Zowie EC-1A. Literally fed up with recent Logitech quality iessues, used to have their products for almost two decades where many of them were top of the range. These 25 Outrageous Computer Case Designs Will Make You Hate Your Own Tower…I Want One Of These Now!
Desktop PCs ruled the computer scene before laptops, tablet PCs, and smartphones came into the picture. Get more stuff like this in your inboxJoin over a million subscribers in our community, and never miss another List25 article. If you want the strongest, most adaptable, and most upgradeable PC, you should build it yourself.
You can buy the best components to be found on the Web, and they'll be useless if you can't actually turn your computer on once you've finished building it. It probably wouldn’t do anything for a while but do you really want to waste a 32GB SD card? Really like the 3D printed case and soldering directly to the USB port on the PI leaving the other one to be exposed! This is an awesome project c: I can imagine such a small laptop with some emulators, and joystick input, would be great for some retro gaming on the go.
I am now working on a gamepad that will slide in and replace the keyboard transforming it into Picade-to-go.
The screen has a composite input and I soldered that input directly to the back of the RPi’s composite connector.

The raspberry pi that I have does not have a composite video connector… only an HDMI output. As for the wifi adapter- any will do as long as it’s small and reliable and has a good range. Here, then, is a guide to building a simple transparent plexiglass case for the hardware you love. Although many say that owning a PC is no longer that practical due to portability issues; hardcore gamers, PC builders, and artists say otherwise. A power supply unit (or PSU) may be the most unappreciated of components, but without it, nothing else will work, so don't forget to give it the thought it deserves. The RCA socket would have been removed from the Pi and the cable soldered directly just for space reasons.
But imagine the look on your friends' faces when you show them a computer in an aquarium filled with mineral oil. Aside from the fact that you can modify various components in the motherboard to make a computer achieve its optimum performance, its case can also be modded for extra appeal and attention. The less complicated or intense the build, the lower a number you can get away with—for most people, 500 to 750 watts will be fine.
In most cases, the most important one to pay attention to is the +12V rail, as that's what will be driving your video cards; one of these capable of supplying 34 to 40 amps should be enough for the most powerful cards you can currently buy, and is likely to be more reliable than using multiple +12V rails for the same job. People have made them into PVRs (personal video recorders), retro gaming machines, weather stations, in-car PCs, jukeboxes, and so many more creative ideas.
But if you're using high-end parts, particularly energy-sucking video cards (or more than one), your power needs could raise to 1,000 watts or even more.
When I started this project four weeks ago, I just wanted to see if it was possible to make an ultra portable, mobile Raspberry Pi that you can take to-go. Checking your components' power usage or thermal design power (TDP) is vital—get a power supply that's too weak, and your computer may not even turn on. As I was building my Pi-to-Go I kept saying to myself, it would be cool if it had this, and then I would find a way to make it happen.My mobile Raspberry Pi Computer is now complete and because this is an open source project I wanted to show you everything, including how to build one yourself. I will even provide links to the parts I needed to purchase and the 3D printer STL files to print your own case. Okay, lets move on.LCD ScreenThe LCD I used is from an after market backup camera system that can be installed in a car. The screen is a low resolution and I hope to find a better upgrade for my next version of the mobile RPi to-go. It uses a composite input and is able to display a resolution of 640 x 480 pixels.Battery PackFirst off, be very careful when messing with lithium-ion batteries.

Because I own a company that sells only laptop parts, it is only natural that I would use a laptop battery for this build.
Laptop batteries are built in such a way that you cannot just plug something into them and use them for a battery pack. I knew it would be possible but I just needed to figure out the best way to get power out of it and how to charge it back up in the best and safest manner. I ended up using a battery for a Dell Latitude D600 laptop and just removed it from the Dell battery case. See picture for pin outs.Charging the battery was easy, I just purchased an after market laptop battery charger.
It connects directly to the battery's 9 pin connector and also has a battery level indicator built-in.Internal Powered HubOne major problem with the Raspberry Pi is a lack of power. But the problem is not there, it is that the USB port can only supply in the neighborhood of 120ma per port, which is not enough to run much. The power from the battery pack is 11.1 volts and the power required for the USB hub was 5 volts.
What I did was connect the battery to the LCD screen which had an input of 9v-13v, and I knew that the LCD screen would have some components that would require a 5v power source (LED LCD back light for example). All I had to do was find the onboard voltage regulator and solder on leads across the 5v capacitor and solder those to the 5v input on the powered USB hub. Now we have clean regulated power for all of our devices.Extended Storage64GB SSD, yes I did!
If I simply just installed a larger SD card and added a large swap file, or swap partition, I would eventually burn out the SD card. I opted for a 64GB Sata II solid state hard drive made by Samsung (model # MMBRE64GHDXP) and again I have a bunch of those in stock so it was convenient.
I used an external USB hard drive caddy's circuit board to connect the SSD sata HDD directly to the internal power USB hub.
The back of the case has a Raspberry Pi logo cut into it and it is illuminated when the device is powered on.
I used a back lighting LED and the acrylic strip from the back of a backlit laptop keyboard. I cut it to the shape to fit just behind the RPi logo and soldered leads that connect to 5v power.

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