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20.08.2015
I found the plans for the trash can vortex top and the actual cart from one of my ShopNotes magazines.
Man, when are you guys going to quit posting brilliant things on here so that I can get off of this computer and actually make some of it?!?
DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. Hi drifter, the information you've read about not glueing frame members seems to be a bit odd. Sorry for the delay in showing this as I've been busy with other things.Got the rotten frame members replaced.
Click here to remove banner ads from this forum.This Forum Is Hosted For FREE By ProBoardsGet Your Own Free Forum! Thanks for the post.It kind of hurts to see a woodshop go, but it is nice to see living space being created. For now they are setup in the attached garage but this coming summer they will be relocated to a 30X40 steel building.
The design is basically a hollow oak box with a dado at the top centre for the dispensing stick to slide in and out. The toughest part about the gumball machine is the dispensing stick, I notched out the wood (a dado) so a couple of gum balls can rest on the stick ready to be slide out. I’ll certainly admit that the crowning achievement on this project (in my opionion) is the dispensing arm. I got the plans for the vortex from Phil Thien's website a year or so ago and he made it out of wood like did if I remember correctly. From your description, I gather you are talking about the vertical and horizontal framework struts on the side wall?? A lot of the repair techniques are similar for both young and old vans, so people might get some good ideas from your situation that they can apply to their own vans.The more pictures the merrier! There was another horizontal frame member at the left along the side wall about where the wiring is. Cabinets are installed and getting close to stain and poly.I installed a pocket door where the cow door was.


I can suck up a lot of dust, chips etc before I have to empty and the bag in the ShopVac stays fairly empty.
I need to do something about dust and this looks like a winner, especially for a good price. However, I always promote the glue-and-screw timber option wherever possible, so my ideas are based on that.Following are some sketches of butt joints with different methods of getting a good solid joint. As the standards were not as good as todays standard of building mobile homes, this one leaks lots of air in and is poorly insulated so the cost of living in this mobile is quite high. Originally the frame was put together using what look like very oversized staples at each joint in the frame. Use brass screws if you can afford them (expensive!!) but any bright galvanised screw is ok. The main piece I have to replace is the vertical frame member in the right corner, & it butts in between the horizontal pieces that run across the back above & below it.
While you've got access to the rear wiring, have a think about putting in a dedicated earth lead to at least the two rear tail-light fittings.
It's amazing what a little bit of knowledge can do, & I even surprise myself at times what can I do with wood. Looking to lower costs I came up with the idea of letting my woodshop go and make it into a house.I dont have many pics of the shop before I started on it.What a mess!
Of course I had to alter the plans due to the size of my vac and larger trashcan but it all came out good. I've read that you should not glue wooden frame members together, so they don't split or break with movement when you're travelling.I can't seem to be able to get these types of fasteners where I live, & was wondering what else I could use. Then there's the horizontal bits that run the length of the van that join the front face (wide part) of this corner piece.Thinking about it while typing this, I presume I could drill the holes at a 45 degree angle, & after gluing, use longish screws so they go through both pieces of wood to hold the vertical piece in place. Doing it the way you've shown means doubling up on every frame member on the lower half of the back wall so the wall lining sits flush across the van. At the moment the earth return from all your lights (bar one) is actually the aluminium cladding, with all the associated problems of joins, sealants, corroded screws, etc, getting in the way of a continuous circuit back to the car battery.
I am so glad I built this, all from plywood I ripped from the basement when I moved in from the shed I was in …brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.


At first I did not add the hose reel holder but I might have to, after i finish my storage bins I found in a different issue of Shopnotes.
I'd thought of those wavey metal strips that you hammer into 2 pieces of wood to hold them together.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
This method replaces the need to try and drill holes in the timber and poke the wiring through. But that means it won't be flush with, & will stick out from, the wall lining on the top half of the back wall. The manufacturers put an earth lead from the tow plug to the nearest clearance light at the front (cheapskates!), and then rely on the cladding as the earth for the rest of the van's traffic lights.Grab a spool of white automotive cable, and at least hook up the two rear light fittings and then feed the cable down the back wall cavity through to the chassis below.
Glad this can help someone, I know I have gained a wealth of knowledge from all the good people here so I like to post something that might help others.Like i said I used some scrap plywood, so I feel the price is right.
It means you can leave the wiring all hooked up in position as it is, and just fit the timber into position with the wiring slotting into the notched section. Can't double up all the top half frame members because then the lining won't sit flush around the window. You'll then need to anchor a short length of white wire to the front drawbar and connect it into the tow plug to complete the circuit.cheers,Al.
I don't want to have to remove any of the outside cladding if I can help it, & only want to be able to fix it from the inside.By the way, this is not the Franklin I posted pics of in my New Member thread.
The notched out section MUST be the minimum width and depth possible, just enough to sit the wires in comfortably, otherwise you'll weaken the timber if you go too deep.
The problem I've found with the old nails on my vans is that they were plain steel, and have rusted solid in the timber due to moisture levels over the years. A notch 8mm wide x 8mm deep should be more than adequate.Whatever you do will be a vast improvement on what's there at the moment ;), so just keep adding bits of timber and glue and screws and swear words, and eventually you'll end up with something as solid as a rock! It's not quite old enough to qualify for this website, but I already have a photo of what needs to be repaired if it would be ok to post that so you can see exactly what I'm talking about.Cheers mate.




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