Couch grass lawn,free shed plans uk,wave oval glass 2tier coffee table,built in corner desk ideas 2014 - 2016 Feature

There is no reason why a small clump or two of Couch Grass cannot be grown in the tortoise enclosure (and it would be appealing to the grass-eating species), but please be aware that it is a pernicious weed and can quickly invade large areas if not kept in check. I’ve just checked back in to my allotmenteer site - after an absence stretching over 2 years - to get the site up and running again. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to tend to my plot over the past two seasons, mainly because it has been totally infested with marestail weeds, successfully taking over all growing areas. This year I have tried to dig a part of the plot over, painstakingly removing as much of the marestail roots as possible, but I’m looking to take another couple of methods in use. The problem that Glyphosate based weed killers have is with penetration, so another method I’m going to try out is injecting RoundUp into some of the marestail plants.
Another thing I’m going to do this season is to get my wormeries back up and running, and post about those developments on these pages as well. Couch grass (Elymus repens) is our weed number one - more due to how common it is than how difficult it is to control.
It’s a rather invasive weed that, if not controlled, quickly will take over a large area. Glyphosate based weedkillers like Roundup is extremely effective against even heavy infestations of couch grass, and (if used correctly) should kill off the lot in just one application. Leave the weedkiller to do its job for about 3 weeks - and promptly treat any new tufts of grass that may appear in this period of time. Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) - also known as mare’s tail - is one of the allotmenteers (or gardeners in general) worst nightmares. Horsetail mainly spread through its creeping underground rhizomes, which can go down as far as 1.5 metres. By regularly removing new shoots as soon as they appear above ground, the plants seem to weaken, and infestation can be reduced quite a lot over a couple of seasons.
Horsetail is resistant to most weedkillers - at least those that can be used anywhere near other plants and produce.
Some success can be achieved by using a systemic glyphosate based weedkiller like roundup in late summer when the plant is growing fast.
Any new growth after the first application should be treated promptly - and further treatments later in the season - or early in the next season may well be required. It has shallow, fleshy roots that spreads very quickly through the soil, and can go down up to 5 meters. Bindweed is extremely difficult to control organically - but with a couple of years persistent digging and hoeing it is possible to get rid of the plant.

Bindweed is effectively and easily trated with a systemic glyphosate based weedkiller, such as roundup. The second contender in our countdown of allotmenteer enemies is the omnipresent bramble (Rubus fruticosus).
This nuisance perennial weed spread in two ways - through its root network or by layering new shoots from its long stems - and doesn’t represent much of a problem if you have got one or two of them on your plot.
If, however, you have inherited an overgrown plot with brambles on it - you’re in for a bit of a fight, as they can soon take over un-controlled areas. Not all allotmenteers wager war on the bramble though - some even grow them near the perimeter of their plots - mainly due to its excellent anti-intruder qualities. Start out by cutting all stems back to the roots - and dispose of them - preferably by burning them. When going down the chemical route - you still have to cut back all stems - and dispose of them. Japanese knotweed (Polygonum Cuspidatum) is to gardeners what MRSA is to hospitals - a super-weed!
Another method is to let the plant grow to a height of about 0.90m (3 feet) in spring, and then apply the weedkiller! Particularly the perannual nasties that keeps coming back year after year, and spread through underground rhizomes. I will try to keep a balance between chemical and organic warfare - bearing in mind that at least one of the weeds (though not very common on allotment sites) is nearly impossible to combat either way. In the USA and Australia, Bermuda Grass (Cynodon dactylon) is often called Couch Grass, so do not confuse the common names. I’m basically back to where I started about 5 years ago, only my plot is in a slightly better condition due to all the hard work I put in those first couple of years. I’ve found a systemic weed killer, called Kibosh, which apperas to deal with the marestail very well. Couch grass looks like any other tuft of grass, but under ground it spreads by rhizomes and long white spagetti-like stems, which will produce new shoots, from where new tufts will grow.
If, however, its roots spreads and gets itself entangled in the rootballs of fruit bushes and shrubs on your plot - you have a problem!
While digging, make sure to remove every bit of root you find, to avoid the couch grass re-growing and the problem worsening.
The growth starts out in spring as asparagus-like shoots, and later in the season develops into fir-tree like plants as shown on the picture.

Before application of the weedkiller - run a rake across the patch you want to treat - or trample down the plants, in order to break the protective cuticle on them. Any bit of roots left while trying to eradicate the plant can grow into a new plant, and it can end up on your plot hidden in the roots of new plants, manure or soil. Next you must consistently hoe out any shoots that try to come out in summer, as this will significantly weaken the roots for the coming season. This is to prevent the bramble to continue layering itself while the chemicals do their work - and to limit your use of the chemicals to a small area. While a glyphosate based weedkiller like roundup will do the job (usually requires more than one-two treatments), other weedkillers (brushwood type) are more efficient. This is due to the nature of the plant, which will spread through its root network as well as through bits of plant material distributed to other areas. The rhizomes of the root system can penetrate to a depth of 6 feet underground - and the plant will re-shoot from even the smallest rhizome left behind. Ideally an application should be made in early autumn before the plant dies back for winter.
A second and third application in a season, when new shoots have reached a height of 3 feet, is not uncommon.
This period can be cut in half though, if a specialist contractor with access to stronger formulated weedkiller treats the plants. They are notoriously difficult to get rid of, and though you wouldn’t think they can stop vegetables etc. To avoid any other plants being affected by the weedkiller, make sure there’s no chance of the spray drifting onto them - or apply the weedkiller onto the leaves of the bindweed - using a paintbrush. Do not use a spade for this, as the bramble will re-shoot from any roots cut through by the blade.
The advantages with using the glyphosate based weedkillers is that they are readily available and that they don’t leave residues in the soil.
This can, however, be a difficult task because the plant can grow to 2.1m (7 feet) or more over a season, and growth is quite thick as well, so access can be difficult. The brushwood weedkillers are harder to get hold of - and will linger in the soil for around 6-8 weeks.

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Comments to “Couch grass lawn”

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