Diy barn doors for led video light effects,easy wood furniture plans rau,dollhouse furniture plans free 5.0 - PDF Books

Well here it is, my Door led strip light project that I have been trying to complete for the past couple of weeks in between rain, the vehicle at the panel beaters (an issue between me and a rock?the rock won!!), work etc etc etc. I have wanted to do this for a while now, so all the bits were purchased or found in the shed, garage or anywhere else they were hiding.
These instructions are (or whatever you want to call them) are quite long but as you do the doors (if you take this project on) you will see it is actually easy. I don?t think I have left anything out but if you do find something please let me know and I can change it. 2 x 30m rolls of 3mm automotive wire in red (I used green as that is all they had) and black single core (with twin core I believe there would be too much wastage and stuffing around) I got these rolls as I can use the rest of the wire for other jobs but if you have some scrap wire around that you can use then go for it but the wire doesn?t need to be any bigger in size. I purchased a 5m strip light (5050) and got it cut down into the sizes that I required and 200mm of wire soldered on to each section of strip light, it did cost me more but as I can?t solder really small stuff it was worth it. All the power wires for these led door lights come directly from a 12 blade fuse block under the driver?s quarter panel and have 4mm blue ring terminals crimped to them.
I could have run one wire to each side then bridged into it for power to the 2nd row doors but I wanted to keep all the circuits separate from each other. Make sure all wiring is secured with cable ties where it won?t rub and short out and are away from all seat belt mechanisms. I'm great at multi-tasking--I can waste time, be unproductive, and procrastinate all at once.
To start off I had to find out how the door switch was wired in so I started off with the driver?s side rear door first (don?t know why I just did). After I figured the switch out and what terminals to bridge across I started to pull the patrol apart to start wiring it all up. 1.Remove door switch, disconnect plug from switch (this side has a little more wire with it so it comes out a little further making it is easier to get apart than the passenger side).
Make a small bridging wire to go between the white female plug and the black door switch (if you do all the doors you will only make 3 of these, as the driver?s door is different).
2.Remove kick panel and peel back door seal on both sides of back door (I left it in place at the top and put it through the grab handle or rested it over the front seat, but removing it may be easier), remove seat belt bolt cover and undo seat belt bolt (ours needed a 14mm socket), remove plastic seat belt clip and gently pull out cover over wheel arch so as to make it easier to get to white plug and to run wire through to door switch (I wedged a block of wood in here to hold the gap open). 3.Remove panel covering lower half of ?B? pillar, this cover will come out easier if you remove the small cover over the driver?s seat rear mount. 4.Connect up bridging wire to door switch and to white plug (I wrapped elect tape around the end so the terminal cannot fall out) See pics on how this was done.
Gently feed white plug and earth wire for LED back through hole and screw door switch back into original position making sure no wires are caught anywhere and the seal around the switch is properly fitted. 6.Gently ease out the rubber boot that the wires run through between the door and the body, this allows you to feed the earth and power wires through easier.
When the wires have come through the rubber boot separate the tie wire from the wires as you will not need the tie wire until the next door. 8.Feed wires through hole in door left by rubber boot making sure they are not too tight and let them dangle inside the door and refit rubber boot to both door and body. Once you have managed to unclip this end, hold onto the armrest cover and pull back gently (towards the door catch), this will slide the arm rest cover out from its hole, place it to the side (where it won’t get damaged). To remove the elect window switch undo screw in door handle (hollow in arm rest), lift up at rear and pull back gently and the front section of the armrest with the elect window switch should come out.
Bare a bit of wire on the ends (at door) and twist the pos wires together and the neg wires together making sure the pos and neg do not touch each other (the wires on our lights were a solid grey for positive and grey with a white stripe for negative, if you are soldering your own wires to the strip lights you may wish to use a red and black wire, but it doesn’t really matter). I put a dob of silicone under the wire at a couple of places to hold it, it is up to you if you want to do this.
14.If you are happy with it, refit the fuse to the holder and check light to ensure it still works as it should.

When reinstalling the electric window switch panel, you need to first locate the tang on it (see pic below) into the slot in the armrest, then push the the rear of it down into place. 15.Now that everything is back together (with the rear door anyway), I put a small dob of silicone under the wires from the light, just to make it more secure.
The passenger side doors are pretty much the same as the driver’s side rear door in that the switch and plug only have one wire and so need to have the bridging wire made up. Be sure to re-fit this cover before re-fitting the cover panel over the lower section of the B pillar. Cable tie the wires securely to make sure they won’t rub and short out, especially near the seat belt mechanism!! So last year when I was in Minnesota at I came across this vintage enamel barn light shade for $12 and I snagged it.
All I did was put them together, take down the boob light, and then wire the new light in it’s place. This light would be our third industrial inspired light in this house, with our kitchen pendant lights and the boy’s basket light being my earlier lighting creations.
I also just have to mention that widening the window above the bed was one of the best design decisions that we’ve made.
The lower lights in the picture above are two 250 watts (500w total) to light the green screen (one stand cost $24), the one in the upper right is the back light (kicker) and the one in the middle is my spot light – but the spot is not working well so I am going to build another softbox for this location. I cut out sheet metal barn doors for the back light (kicker) and painted them with high heat grill paint. Here you can see my microphone and behind it is the other $24 work lights to light the other side of the green screen. This is my home made softbox, two 500 watt work lights pointed at a window screen frame covered with parchment paper. I am trying out Sony Vegas and was able to key out the green screen really well in my test, so now I need to figure out how to use the manual mode on my new Sony HDR-SR7 HD hard drive camera.
June 16, 2014 by Stephanie 4 Comments I seem to make a lot of headboards for family and friends. The inspiration barn door headboard was a king and very tall so we adjusted the size to fit a queen and took 2 feet off the height. For the two outside boards and the three cross bars we {my husband} cut off the tongue and groove. I haven’t delivered the headboard to my daughter yet, but she has seen the pictures and loves it.
All text and images on this blog are Copyright Stephanie Norris, except where credited otherwise. I have not attempted this on any other patrol at this stage so I cannot and will not make any assumptions of it working or the wires being the same across the models.
I do apologise for it being longwinded but as some may appreciate it does take a lot to explain things in writing and I wanted to get down as much as possible to hopefully make it easier for others. After unscrewing the switch from the pillar and only finding one wire I went about playing with different ideas of bridging out wires, terminal posts and the like until I figured out how I was going to do this.
Crimp a small female red blade terminal to one end, feed this wire through holes (under wheel arch panel) where switch wires were and push this onto 3rd male terminal in black door switch.
Secure white plug with a cable tie or a bit of elect tape as it can flop around behind the panel. Now you need to work out where you want power to come from for the lights as you will need to feed both the earth and power wires through the rubber boot together. Now go back and secure the earth wire with cable ties from the switch through to the rubber boot at the ?B? pillar.

Undo the 3 large screws (that you can now see as the armrest covers have been removed) securing the centre of the door trim to the door. I lined up a slot in the bottom of the door with the wire just so it is tucked out of the way. Once you have it connected put a 5 or 10amp fuse in, the door light should come on, now push the door switch to see if the light goes out, it should (and the interior light should go off as well if there are no other doors open), if it doesn’t…have you re-installed the door switch!! Once this is done then you can cut the wires to the right length (I left them slightly longer as it makes them easier to join).
Then refit speaker, door trim and all the bits in reverse order to how you disassembled them. Then fit the armrest pad in the same way - front end in first, then drop the back end down, and give it a gentle tap with the heel of your hand.
Of course in our last house I DIY’ed some lighting as well, including an industrial kitchen pendant, and a hanging ORB light. I love it too, it took about trying three different comforters before I finally found one I really love. Usually they are upholstered, so when my daughter sent me a link for this barn door headboard she loved, I instantly wanted to make her one. I like to try new things, so why not? To get the wires through the rubber boots I used a piece of tie wire about 2mm thick and about 2 ? feet long, gently feed the tie wire through the boot being careful not to puncture a hole in the side (as it is soft rubber), you have to wiggle the tie wire and the rubber boot so it goes through easier, after coming out other end leave enough tie wire so the power and earth wires can be taped to it (taping it to the last couple of inches is usually fine). Unclip door trim from door (I used a screwdriver or wedged it out with my fingers but if you have a door trim removal tool all the better as this can save the paintwork, and or damaging the door trim).
Before joining them, feed them through the small slotted hole near the speaker and slide a piece of heat shrink over both the wires to protect them from the edges of the hole (you may need to put the heat shrink over the wires already attached to the strip light because when it is all done these might be the wires going through the hole, it depends on how long they are). After the plastic seat belt clip and the seat belt bolt were removed, the cover was prised open and was kept this way with a block of wood so I could get to the white plug. Thank goodness he is a good sport when I tell him I need his help when I have a project I want to get done. It was a team effort to make this barn door headboard, and I am so happy with the way it turned out. I have written these out for others and to hopefully make it easier for them to do, I am not qualified, nor do I have a degree, so for anyone attempting this project please use common sense and observe all safety regulations (if any).
Start to pull the tie wire through the boot leaving enough cable inside the pillar so it can all be cable tied securely (to make it easier to pull through the rubber boots you can spray wires with a silicone spray, WD40 or CRC).
Once all the clips are out grab the trim near the top and gently push the door trim upwards so it slides out from beside the window. Now slide another piece of heat shrink over each wire and join wires together using normal size blade terminals (I used these so I can easily replace the lights if needed), slide heat shrink back over joins and heat up so it shrinks and seals the connections and keeps them together (or you can use elect tape if you want!).
The door switch on the passenger side rear door doesn’t have much movement as the wire is too short so you will have to be careful in getting the plug apart. But instead of using regular wood, we decided to use cedar tongue and groove just to make the project easier.
My passion is to decorate & design and you will usually find me knee-deep in do-it-yourself projects for myself, friends and family. Now route the wires so they are neat, and secure the wires inside the door with cable ties to the existing wiring loom but make sure that they are clear of the window when it is in the down position.

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