Easy wood joining 5sos,what tools to make cabinets,glass top polar bear coffee table - Good Point

How to Make Reinforced Joints - Assembling Your Project - Built-ins, Shelves & Bookcases. Similar techniques can reinforce many simple joints used to build utility shelving or casework. Even traditionally strong joints such as the mortise-and-tenon can be strengthened with a peg that locks the parts together.
Metal and wood reinforcements for simple joints are normally placed where they're inconspicuous, such as at the back of a bookcase or inside a cabinet. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY.
The language of the joiner is filled with words that we know well from ordinary usage but here have new and distinct meanings: Lap, edge, butt, and finger joints are technical terms to woodworkers. If you are just making your first foray into the land of the join­ers, you’d probably do best to start with a simple joint like a dado or a rabbet.
So here they are, the basic kinds of wood joints, in some­thing approaching simplest-to-hardest order.
To put it another way, a miter joint is a butt joint that con­nects the angled ends of two pieces of stock. The rabbet joint is much stronger than a simple butt joint, and is easily made either with two table or radial-arm saw cuts (one into the face, the second into the edge or end grain) or with one pass through a saw equipped with a dado head. The dado joint is perfect for setting bookshelves into uprights, and can be fastened with glue and other fasteners.
Lap joints can be cut with dado heads, as well as with standard circular sawblades on radial- arm or table saws.
Though precise cutting of the fingers is essential, finger joints require only relatively simple ninety-degree cuts that can be made by hand or using a router, radial-arm, or table saw. Finger joints, like dovetail joints, are sometimes used as a decoration, adding a contrast­ing touch as well as strength to the joined pieces. The good news is that there are some jigs on the market (though they’re hardly inex­pensive) that make layout and cutting dovetails a snap.
Just as most craftsmen consider mortises and tenons the best choice for connecting rails to stiles, legs to aprons, and for other frame joinery, they favor interlocking joints for assembling the sides of boxes, drawers, and chests — what is commonly referred to as box joinety.
This unity of movement allows you to cut intricate mating surfaces when making interlocking joints.
Interlocking joints include various types of dovetail joints, finger joints, and lock joints, all of which require multiple cuts.
The jig is designed to work on either a table saw with a dado cutter accessory, or a router table with a straight bit. 6-3 Place the first adjoining board end down against the face of the jig and slide it to one side until the edge butts against the stop. 6-4 Loosen the clamp and move the board sideways until the notch you just cut fits over the stop. Woodworking Tools and Installation TipsThere are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner.
A glued miter joint holds up well in a picture frame but isn't strong enough for the corner of a cabinet door or face frame without reinforcement, such as wood dowels.
Use metal plates and brackets from the home center or hardware store, or make your own plywood gussets and wood corner blocks. Please consider updating your browser to the latest version of Internet Explorer or Google Chrome. Joinery jargon gets still more compli­cated when you add in some other kinds of joints, like mortise-and-tenon, tongue-and-groove, dovetail, dowel, dado, spline, and rabbet.

With the introduction of the biscuit or plate joiner, any number of these joints are strengthened or varied thanks to the presence of the little, football-shaped wafers. When you join two squared-off pieces of wood, you’ve made a butt joint, whether the workpieces are joined edge to edge, face to face, edge to face, or at a cor­ner. The classic ex­ample is a picture frame, with its four butt joints, one at each corner, with the ends of all the pieces cut at a forty-five-degree angle, typically in a miter box. Mi­ter joints may also be fastened with nails, screws, dowels, or other mechanical fasteners. A rabbet (or re­bate, as it is also known) is a lip or channel cut from the edge of a workpiece. A router or any one of several tradi­tional hand planes, including a plow plane, will also cut a rab­bet. A lap joint is formed when two pieces have recesses cut into them, one recess in the top surface of one piece, the second in the lower surface of the other. Dovetail shaped laps are sometimes used to join the ends of pieces to the midsection of others (dovetail half-laps).
Gluing is usual, though other fasteners, including dowels or wooden pins, are also common with lap joints.
A spline is a thin strip, usually of wood, that fits snugly into grooves on surfaces to be joined. Flooring, bead-board, and a variety of other milled, off-the-shelf stock are sold with ready-made tongues and grooves on opposite edges.
For rougher work, as with certain kinds of novelty siding and subroof or sheathing boards, the stock is face-nailed.
The mortise is the hole or slot (or mouth) into which a project­ing tenon (or tongue) is in­serted. It’s also one of the most challeng­ing to make, requiring careful layout and the investment of considerable cutting and fit­ting time.
There is an important difference between these two types of joinery Mortises and tenons join boards whose wood grain is oriented to shrink and swell in different directions.
Frame joinery is often very plain; if it were too elaborate, gaps would open up between the adjoining members as they expanded and contracted. It's the number of cuts that cause an interlocking joint to look intricate, not the complexity of the cuts. The width of the stop on the jig, the width of the cutter, and the distance between them must all be precisely equal. For example, if the fingers are xh inch wide, the adjoining parts might be 5 inches, 5V2 inches, or 6 inches wide, but not 5V* inches or 57« inches.
To be certain that they are long enough, cut them about V32 inch longer than needed so they protrude slightly when the joint is assembled. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. The clearance hole must be very slightly bigger than the shank [shank: Smooth, narrow part between the head and core of a screw. Not to men­tion such combination joints as cross laps, dado rabbets, dove­tail laps, and keyed miters. Pretty soon you will find that it’s fun to figure out which will work best for a given project or a particular application.
A butt joint is the simplest to make, requiring little shap­ing beyond cuts made to trim the workpiece to size. A typical rabbet joint is one in which a second piece is joined to the first by setting its end grain into the rabbet.

Some cabinetmakers differentiate between groove and dado joints, insisting that grooves are cut with the grain, dadoes across.
The waste material removed is usually half the thickness of the stock, so that when the shaped areas lap, the top and bottom of the joint arc flush. The edges can also be shaped with table or ra­dial-arm saws; in the past, matching hand planes did the job. Glue is used only infrequently, as one of the chief advantages of a tongue-and-groove joint is that it al­lows for expansion and contraction caused by changes in temperature and moisture content. Most often, the mortise and tenon are both rectilinear in shape, but round tenons and matching mortises are to be found.
As early as the sixteenth century, this joint was identified by its resemblance to bird anatomy.
Its shape is a re­versed wedge, cut into the end grain of one piece, that fits into a corresponding mortise on a second workpiece.
The mating surfaces of simple corner joints (butt joints, miter joints, and rabbet joints) are relatively small. A half-blind dovetail (3), which can only be seen from one direction, is often used to join the front corners of drawers. It's simple enough to make small finger joints in thin stock on a router table, but the procedure becomes progressively more time consuming as the fingers grow wider and the stock gets thicker.
If you can't divide the finger width into the board width evenly, you'll end up with partial fingers on one side of each board. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together.
Rabbet joints are frequently used to recess cabinet backs into the sides, or to reduce the amount of end grain visible at a corner. Whatever you want to call them, grooves or dadoes are cut easily with a dado head on a radial arm or table saw. Once the surfaces to be joined have been cut to fit, a table saw can be used to cut matching kerfs.
The mortise-and-tenon joint is harder to shape than other, simpler joints (both pieces require considerable shaping), but the result is also a great deal stronger. Dove­tails are traditionally used to join drawer sides and ends and, in the past, for many kinds of casework furniture.
But box joinery, such as dovetails and finger joints, can be as fancy as you want to make it. Often, there are no long-grain-to-long-grain surfaces, just end-grain-to-long-grain and end-grain-to-end-grain.
A lock joint (4), also called a tongue-and-dado joint, is another joint that can only be seen from one side. The multiple cuts in an interlocking joint multiply the surface area and often provide a healthy measure of long-grain-to-long-grain gluing surface. While you will be able to view the content of this page in your current browser, you will not be able to get the full visual experience.
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