Fine woodworking on planes and chisels lowes,reclaimed wood coffee table plans ana,front door plans free homemade - New On 2016

05.01.2014
Detail of the three small wooden violinmaker's planes made by Smishkewych during his time at the Indiana University Violin Shop.
My experience as an instrument builder translates in new ways to furniture building, which I am avidly engaging as a new editor at Fine Woodworking. The Sloane is a great book because it will help you assemble the tools you need without any huge investment in bizarre stuff--but you can have the chance to make or buy a small plane or two like these if you wish!
HayesFurnitureDesign writes: I've always been intrigued by violins, and since my 6 year old niece has started taking lessons I found myself inclined to build one. Wrong Way, Right Way: When planing small pieces, hold the plane firmly and move the workpiece across the blade-not the other way around. Essentially, a handplane holds a sharp blade at a fixed angle, with its tip extending very slightly from the sole. Woodworking is a solitary hobby and it requires tools and techniques that are inherently dangerous. Home › Forums › Fine Woodworking Knots › Hand Tools Transition Planes - Any good?
If you have to, redo the mouth, true the sole, sharpen the blade with a tad of camber and listen to the whistle as you work. Probably an age thing, but I have a degree of difficulty in understanding the cult of planes, chisels and so on. Never gave it a thought with my fascination for all these power tools I've acquired sinnce then. Boats remain one of the last fonts of commercial hand tool use, because so many angles, curves and finish requirements in combination will allow nothing else. One would think that there could be a whole new beginning for those inclined to manufacture frogs of varying degree! They are easy to tune, can be made to bed the irons very well, and most can have a thicker iron placed in them if desired. Because they are so cheap they can reperesent a pretty good buy for someone just beginning, too.
I am in the dark here: who in this thread has actually rubbished these transitional planes? I've never tried to make a scraper plane, but I've shimmed plenty of frogs to various angles. But I believe some mouth front clearance for the scrapings would be useful, and you'd have to figure that out.
A little while ago I posted this picture of a #7 set up to scrape at 90 degrees (reversed blade bevelled at 45 degrees).


Bob, I agree with Mufti-they are worth jacking up if you enjoy the process.My only caveat is that they are not much good for hard or difficult woods, or rather, they are difficult to use effectively on these woods.
How's about using it as a shooting plane?  Outfitted with a new hard maple sole could ya make it into a real nice smoother?  Think of the possibilities!
My inspiration to build these wooden hand planes comes from James Krenov, David Finck, and perhaps Konrad Sauer.
Hand planes represent an important group of tools, not only for woodworkers pursuing traditional techniques but also for woodshops that rely mostly on machines.
From left: a bronze rabbet plane, a convex-sole violinmaker's plane, a bowmaker's concave-sole plane with palm rest, three wooden planes by the author, a pair of "bunny" planes, and a miniature spokeshave.
The small-scale accuracy of luthiery helps when dealing with precise joint work, such as a recent box made under the tutelage of FW's own Matt Kenney. Actually, there are some great ways to get into instrument making: apprenticing is not at all an esoteric thing, and by simply Googling "violin making apprentice" or "violin making course" you can find a wealth of classes in the US and Canada.
Please upgrade to a different browser or install Google Chrome Frame to better experience this site. When pushed along the surface of a board, the plane takes a very precise shaving and leaves behind a flat surface. Secure the workpiece before planing, either with a vise, clamps, a bench stop, or a bench hook. It is possible to hold a plane upside down and rub a small workpiece along its sole to trim it, but be very careful to keep fingers clear of the blade. Use sandpaper to break the sharp machined edges on new planes to make them comfortable to hold and avoid nicks and scrapes. A blade falling accidentally will likely not cut through leather but can do serious damage to an exposed foot. I find if I do not have shavings thinner at the sides, then the mouth tends to choke- the planes not mine! I do like tools which perform as they should, however the limiting factor seems to be fettling myself to do just that instead of overcomplicating every task. I took a picture of it simply because it was one of the seeming rare instances of making something "other" for a while. If you've not gotten there yet, for an interesting and intellectually challenging bit of reading, try Introduction to Objectivist Epistemology and The Virtue of Selfishness. There are other courses, aimed towards guitarbuilding (by far the most plentiful) and also towards historical instruments (these programs are easier to find in Europe these days).
This is indispensable for surfacing boards, shaping corners, and leveling one item to another.


Most hand-tool users place their workbench surface level with their fingertips when they are standing and letting their arm hang straight down. I've been lucky and had a near miss with a heavy plane blade and chip breaker falling when I inverted an old wooden plane body and just missed my bare toes.
When working in the shop it is important to protect your eyes, ears, and lungs, and take great care when using hand and power tools.
They are made out of walnut scraps, with small japanese steel blades, and spring pins (and in one case, copper tubing) for holding the wedges. We also tend to have an assortment of wacky hand tools that are unique to the trade, aside from the usual saws, planes, and chisels. A favorite specialty plane is the shoulder plane, which can cut all the way into a square corner.
These safety manuals prepared by the editors of Fine Woodworking provide the foundation of safety knowlege every woodworker should know. I don't rank any of the oaks as very hard, or difficult to work, but I would still prefer to use an all metal decent quality plane to work the more difficult hardwoods-which does not mean that transitional planes are useless for hardwoods.
These include purfling cutters (center of the photograph), peg shavers, tapered reamers that match the slope of violin and lute family pegs, and soundpost setters. You'll also notice that these are completely convex bottoms, front-to-back and side-to-side.) One of the main tricks that makes these planes slightly more challenging is fitting the wedge for the blade. Another is adjusting the size of the throat, which at this small scale requires the use of a detail file. Since these planes don't have a chipbreaker, the blades are turned bevel-down and the slope of the wedge helps lever the chips out, as would be the case with a Japanese plane.These little planes are normally used to carve out the insides of bellies and backs of violin and other archtop instruments. But in some projects I am designing, I'm envisioning possible uses for these planes in tight spots for which I might not have a tool at the moment. For example, I'm planning to build a small sewing box in japanese tansu style, that'll include shaped handles along both top edges.
In order to make the gentle curve on the inside bottom of those handles, I'll want to use one of these small planes.



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