How to build a vanity cabinet,free wood storage box plans,baby cradle woodworking plans free 3.0 - PDF Books

I think the most important thing on the list of stuff you need to build a vanity is the pervasive belief that you can, in fact, build a vanity. I started with the three plywood side panels (two sides and a back) by ripping them down from a 4×8 sheet of plywood on the table saw.
I knew that I was going to have to attach the bottom of the cabinet and the lower shelf to the sides and back somehow, and I also knew I wasn’t going to use dowels to do it. I’ll save you the suspense and tell you that sliding that piece in during final assembly while trying to glue and clamp everything was a pain in the ass. And I made sure that when the shelf sat on the ledge, it would be flush with the top of the piece of wood so that it would all look pretty seamless. Also, as you can see, I did the router method prior to drilling for dowels, but the scrap-piece method after I drilled the dowel holes, so it wouldn’t get in my way. The two pieces to be joined should be lined up and clamped completely flush, with the sides to be drilled facing out.
For the manual method I marked a vertical line across both pieces, and then a horizontal line across each piece to find the center for each hole.
I didn’t have one messed up hole with this, and everything was perfectly straight and aligned between pieces.
And once everything looked good I took it apart, sanded all the pieces down with 100 grit sandpaper, and then reassembled with glue.
Since I only have 3 24″ clamps for some inexplicable reason, I actually did these one at a time, and let them dry overnight. The dowels were done the same way on the front and back, it just took a little more maneuvering to dry fit everything. This one had to go in while I was gluing everything, but the bottom shelf I was able to drop in later, thankfully.
For the other side I used the combination of a really long clamp, and two smaller clamps that were rigged together. I glued this bottom shelf and tacked it in with a couple of 1″ finish nails, but clamping it would have worked just as well. I choose to paint it at this point, because I’m impatient and also because it allowed me to procrastinate on building the doors.
I wanted to have them in my hand before building the doors so I could account for the width of the hinge. It required a little sanding and adjustment on the hinges for everything to swing smoothly, and I had a slightly larger gap between the doors than I’d anticipated.
And finally ended up copying the PB door style with thin trim set just around the inside of the frame.
At this point, you basically have a fully constructed cabinet, and how you finish it is up to you.
The whole cabinet was done this way, but it stood out the most on the doors and the detail in the turned legs.
Actually, I totally messed this up and used a filler piece for the depth, which you’ll see in a minute, but in theory you should plan that out ahead of time.
Once your boards are the right size, the sink should come with a template to cut the right sized hole for it. It would be an excellent idea to put a grout sealer on at this point, even if I myself haven’t done that yet either.
In my case it needs some finishing touches, like a nice basket underneath and actual outlets installed above it. It’s actually fine (I built that thing 4 years ago) and I used MDF for kitchen counters probably 9-10 years ago now, and from what I understand those are in great shape too.

June 12, 2011 By Beckie DIY Diva built this gorgeous sink console complete with a double cabinet, lower shelf, and tiled top. Thank you, thank you, thank you for all the sweet comments you left on my post yesterday of my bathroom reveal.
When the comments started rolling in, you just made my day!  It felt like I was getting a ton of “high fives,” and I was lovin’ it! A lot of you asked me questions about the makeover in the comment section, and I will be answering them in some upcoming posts. I had a lot of questions about how Cy made the vanity, so I am going to do my best to share it today. To save some money, we decided to use a leftover piece of butcher block from our kitchen renovation for the vanity top and have Cy build the whole thing.
However, why Cy chose to build this vanity at about 10:30 at night, upstairs in the addition, by the light of a single lamp, I cannot recall.
This may be confusing, but he cut off the bottom of the newel posts to be the top of our vanity legs. Next, he attached small pieces of wood with glue {PL Adhesive} and screws to be the “anchor pieces” for the wood sides of our vanity.
Cy followed this same process for all four corners of the vanity legs on the top and bottom.
We also thought the sides of the top of the vanity looked a little plain, so to make it look more custom, Cy added another small piece of trim around the sides. I absolutely love the contrast of the shiny chrome against the butcher block and wood walls.
The towel bar is practical because it gives me a place to hang my hand towels, but it also provides a way for me to hide the ugly plumbing beneath my vanity.  Love that! Since we had the butcher block left over from our kitchen renovation, it helped to save us some money in this project. So, we could have definitely saved some more money on this project if we had had the luxury of more time to complete it. To answer more of your questions about our renovation, I will be sharing a post about our wood planked walls.. I will also be sharing more about our split bathroom shower curtain, AND we will be giving you a complete cost breakdown of our bathroom makeover. This colorful Craftsman-style light can be mounted alone over a medicine cabinet or used in a pair to flank the sides. Because truly, there's nothing wrong with this little vanity, and I've even added a step drawer. And after requests, I took some measurements and did some inspecting, and am posting plans so you can build what I've dubbed the "Builder Grade Vanity" for your own home.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion.
I love the drawer under the vanity, in fact I almost purchased one at Lowes when we redid our bathroom- All that storage gone to waste!
I think I remember some discussion of casters underneath the step over on the toe kick drawer plan.
Shockingly, once I had the rough plan and the parts I just dove right in, but I also spent a lot of time in the process looking quizzically at my pieces, trying to figure out my next step. Once the guide was set up I ran each piece of the same dimension through it to make sure everything stayed square.
You see the stop is raised on the one wing of the stand and I used that the same way I used the table saw guard, to make sure each piece was cut to exactly the same level.

The first ones I marked and drilled without a jig, which is the kind of experience that makes you think about sticking a screwdriver through your eyeball since it’s almost impossible to drill a straight centered hole with a hand drill. But the nice thing about dowel joints is that if you mess up a hole, it will be covered up in the final piece, so you can always drill a new one. I used the reverse clamp method for one side, which meant building a frame larger than the cabinet and then using the clamps backwards to push the cabinet tight against the side of the frame. I almost made a big mistake here because there wasn’t quite enough room to tilt the shelf on an angle and drop it in place, but thankfully the shape of the legs gave me some wiggle room and I was able to make it work. I did a decent amount of planning and measuring once I had the tile and before I cut my MDF down to size so that I would only have full tiles. Unless you live in a garage and are desperate to have a working bathroom in your house, which is entirely dependent on finishing this vanity counter.
But regardless, you can bet I smile every time I see this knowing that I spent about $400 in materials for a vanity that costs $1400 from Pottery Barn. Around $212, Wilmette Lighting Company modern bathroom vanities, antique vanity Sagehil Designs introduces the American Craftsman Vanity. Style The simplicity of this single open vanity cabinet will create that feel of spaciousness in an otherwise small bathroom, by Craftsman ,Bungalow Bathroom Design at Vintage Tub & Bath. In this category, we have grouped together our Arts and Crafts style of bath vanity lights Bathroom lighting in a craftsman or mission style. I've recently bought a bathroom vanity with mirror but it has no storage and this is why I decided to make one based on your plans.
For more in depth instructions on making a dowel joint, check out this post, but I’ll give you the high-level. Using plywood is a great option, and I use a tile membrane over any surface I tile these days anyway, but the MDF has also totally held up for me in more than one sink-based situation. Style The American Craftsman Bathroom Vanity Cabinet 30 Inch is based on design elements of the American Ars and Crafts movement. The American Craftsman Bathroom Vanity Cabinet 36 Inch features ample scale and proportions combined with simple lines to make this design a new classic. Follow your All Bathroom Vanities Sagehill Design American Craftsman Vanity AC4821D in Bathroom Vanities Period style matching antique brass hardware.
I think if I had to make a vanity, I would slap that puppy with some beadboard and call it "Cottage Chic! I tried searching for it and couldn't find anything that resembled instructions for making that portion of the vanity. I’ve spent the last decade tearing houses apart, putting them back together again, and writing about it on this website. I am absolutely drooling over this vanity, especially considering the cheapo cabinetry that graces my bathrooms.
Model K5102OLZ Choose from a wide selection of craftsman mission bathroom vanities Bathroom Vanities.
If building a piece of furniture from top to bottom intimidates you a bit, consider refurbishing another piece to achieve the same look.

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Comments to “How to build a vanity cabinet”

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