How to build closet door frame uk,adjustable coffee table legs 800mm,hallway console table ireland number - .

10.11.2015
The Secret Stairs looks deceptively easy to create on your own, but this kit is specially designed with custom parts for a seamless, invisible fit and can be installed into any set of new or existing stairs that are standard construction and carpeted. If you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now.
So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries.
You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to. Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door.
This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it.
Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track.
I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. It's taken me weeks to get the courage to share the closet of a three year old with the world, but it's taken me months to take what was just a clever idea and turn it into .
Here's the bottom.  You can see how I simply built bookshelves, attached them to the inside of existing closet doors, put the doors on hinges, and added a couple extra square feet of storage to a tiny closet.  Oh, those hooks are Command hooks from 3M - So easy to use, I love them! When open, the doors opens completely flush, giving you the most room to access the inside of the closet (as long as there is not a wall or something in the way).  No those are not my bookcases (the saggy white ones), they are the last of the flat pack particle board furniture that I have in my home.
When closed, the bookshelves sit in the door frame, taking up what used to be completely wasted space.  And in a house the size of mine, with exactly three closets, every square inch of a closet is prime real estate. The weight of the doors rests on wheels, so you can load the doors up.  In one closet door, I was able to store ALL of Grace's books. Think of the possibilities - pantry items, toiletries, towels, accessories, and did anyone mention shoes? And best of all?  I can close the doors live my dream of a simple, bare home, free of clutter.  No one (besides you, my friends) would ever know what's behind my closet doors.  All for around twenty bucks a door!
So wanna make your own?  Here's how I did.  You will need to alter your shelves to your own closet specifications.  So get your measuring tape out! If you missed the previous two posts, I talked about the design process for our new closet, and the purchase list and building process. Two weeks worth of planning, two weeks of purchasing, building and painting, just under $500 and here’s our new extremely efficient and organized closet!
Each of the towers is fastened against the wall with an L bracket on top of the tower so we don’t have to worry about it falling over.
To trim out each of the towers, we used the nail gun to fasten some shingle molding on the top of the towers, and baseboard molding along the bottoms. We chose closet rod supports that also supported a shelf on top so that we would have two shelves along the back wall. Along the bottom of the back wall of the closet we re-used some ClosetMaid shoe organizers we previously owned. Montana’s side has a thin tower with just shelves so that its symmetrical with my side.
We’re liking the cedar floor so far, it gives a great fresh scent to the closet instead of smelling stale and I don’t have to worry about bugs eating away at our wool!
Now that we we have a better organized system, we still have leftover room, and thats after we put back ALL of the clothes that were in there before, AND added all of our shoes that used to take up their own closet!!! One thing that could have drastically cut down the price of our build was the plywood used. Another area where we could have saved about $30 would have been by getting the basic grade closet rods instead of the heavy duty brushed nickel. Tiffany and I started by priming all the plywood on the inside since I figured that would be easier than doing individual pieces once they were cut. Then I started measuring and cutting, and measuring and cutting… to be exact, there were 127 pieces to be cut to size. Then you you just pull off your jig, and set the locating pin in the hole you drilled, and slide the first hole of your jig over the locating pin.


Next came 1 x 2 pieces that I wood glued and pocket screwed together on the backside before using the nail gun to secure the entire face frame to the front.
While I continued in the basement Montana was upstairs installing the cedar plank floor using the Cedar Safe Closet Liners. Finally we were able to start installing the closet rods on the back wall of the closet and carrying the towers upstairs. It took me most of a day to install all the drawers… but alas they finally came together.
Sometimes I think back on the days when I was single and lived alone and maintained a spotless organized apartment and I laugh at what my past self would have thought when visiting our house now. As I mentioned in our house tour, our master bedroom has a sitting room that was originally a 4th bedroom before previous owners knocked out part of the wall. We also had lots of open wall space, but not enough shelves for Montana who doesn’t have as many hanging clothes as folded. For a long time I’ve struggled with wanting to put built-ins in the closet, but wanting to wait until we refinished or replaced the very worn hardwood floors in the bedroom.
After browsing through some of their pre-designed sections and I found the prices to be very reasonable I convinced Montana that we should get an ALGOT system to harness our clutter for at least a few years until we decided what to do with the master bath and the floor.
Back to the drawing board, literally… I stayed up until 4am New Years Eve drawing multiple versions of plans for built-ins that we could make ourselves and that would use every inch, while still letting us easily access stuff in the corners.
I thought about putting in track lighting or rope lighting in each tower before I finally chose Utilitech White Swivel Recessed Lights to install in the ceiling around our attic access that could point in different directions. I was a little afraid to try the CedarSafe brand on the floor because it had very mixed reviews with many people saying their boards were warped or cracked, but it was cheap, and I figured if it didn’t work, then in a few years when we refinish the floors we could easily replace them then. The Secret Stairs is accessed using an electromagnetic lock (via key fob) and has no obvious opening mechanism to tip off burglars. They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware! It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place.
Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle. This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them. The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us. Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes. We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater. They make a HUGE difference in the room since the light is coming from multiple directions now instead of just from the wall above the closet door.
I liked the brushed nickel  because it matches our hardware and really felt much more sturdy. You can only drill 5 of the 6 holes each time you move the jig, since you always have 1 of the holes used by the locating pin. The top of each of the towers got a 1 x 3 instead of 1 x 2 since it looked a little more polished. I toyed with the idea of using it as a full size dressing room, but decided that probably wasn’t best for resale.
This is a bad picture, but the only light was just a bulb screwed into the wall above the door.
Montana has become quite the master electrician in the last few months and was excited to get to tear apart the ceiling.
Cedar is popular because it keeps bugs from eating little holes in your favorite sweater, but it also smells nice and fresh and is especially great for masking smelly boy shoes. My parents used cedar closet lining for all of their closet floors about 20 years ago and they’ve held up fine.
That bit's not quite finished yet, though, so believe me when I say I'm probably WAY more excited to see this than you guys are.


Cost was definitely a factor against it and I will say that we considered lower quality plywood and MDF to save money. I was afraid the basic grade closet rod would have sagged from the weight of our clothes since it was going to be across a 71″ wall. Needless to say Day 1 for me was mostly measuring and cutting, and putting pieces into organized piles so I wouldn’t forget which pieces went with what.
Tiffany helped me get the boards all squared up and we used wood glue before securing with corner clampsand pocket hole screws. Most of the boards were warped just enough that the tongue and groove ended up being mostly useless. To make the closet as symmetrical as practical I decided to put the double closet rail across the entire back wall of the closet.
I chose the swivel type so that we could point each bulb directly at the section of the closet we wanted to illuminate. Home Depot sells a brand of cedar planks called CedarSafe which are meant for lining closet walls but we decided to use the planks instead for the floor. Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length.
The towers are only 15″ deep, so we can still reach each corner fine and just put the clothes and shoes that we use the least, furthest into the corner. MDF would have saved us about $100, but the boards at Home Depot were all fraying on the edges, and I was afraid that would give us some issues based on how many cuts we’d have to do.
It comes with an adjustable bit, a fence to hold it square against the edge of your board, and a locating pin to make sure your holes are all evenly spaced when you move your jig down the board. Because we were putting drawers in 2 of the 3 towers, getting the tower square was very important.
The boards wouldn’t stay clicked together and if you tried to pull them into each other to force them straight they would end up cracking. Part of the problem with our walk-in is that it’s relatively squarish and has too many corners with overlapping wire shelves. Then Montana and I would each get a 2 foot wide tower with a combination of drawers and shelves which would go in the middle of the side walls. You also really need to use a clamp so you don’t accidentally move your jig in the middle of drilling a hole. I wish we would have had a few more corner clamps to help us along,  it turned out ok, but definitely not perfect.
Again, the drawers need to be extremely square so that you don’t have issues using them with your drawer slides.
On the plus side, its ready made and I’m sure could be put together in a day or two tops. Right inside the door I would have a full size hanging section that mirrored a 1 foot wide tower with shelves on his side.
I read reviews on a bunch of different shelf pin jigs and I’m happy I went with the KREG Shelf Pin Drilling Jig because it is a great product! The factors going for Purebond were that its Formaldehyde-free, made in America, and has a BEAUTIFUL smooth veneer coat.
Also, our wire shelves didn’t have a separate clothing bar that you could slide clothes on, so putting clean clothes away was always a battle with trying to find an open little square. Also, IKEA has a very convenient planner tool, so as long as you know the measurements of your space its VERY easy to play around and design exactly what you want. In the end we decided the extra money was well worth it for a much superior cabinet-grade product. Some people would say thats because the walls and ceiling cover more square footage forcing you to spend more money on the product. They are literally the only reason I’m not ready to go to Home Depot tomorrow to start on built-ins for our office.



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