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21.09.2014
There are three certainties in life: death, taxes, and the moving of United Methodist pastors. The decision of who goes where is made by a group of church leaders called a€?the cabinet.a€? They begin meeting in the early spring and by May the vast majority of appointments have been made with all the appropriate notifications and preparations. When the pastor of a small church has served for four years, it is a given that the chances for a move increase. The Texas Annual Conference of the United Methodist church covers a large portion of East Texas. When the movers arrived the next morning, I gave them the 4-1-1 on the treadmill, but the head guy seemed confident that he could get it out.
Moving is very stressful.A  Fortunately, we had some help packing thanks to friends and family, but I was still packing when the movers showed up. Whenever I leave a place, I always like to think I leave a part of me there.A  This time it took the form of our treadmill. Speaking of the yard, I was exploring the back yard on the first day and met my first NEIGHbor across the back fence.A  He has four legs and a long face, but was friendly! GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 2PROBLEMS COMMONTO ALL BRANDSWashing machine designs vary widely, but there are some things that all washers have in common.
GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 8DOMESTIC ICEMAKERS8-1 ICEMAKER TYPESIcemakers are divided into two basic types; flex-tray and hard tray. 20121 Kings 8:28 -- But please listen to my prayer and my request, because I am your servant. This past spring we waited for a€?the calla€? from the cabinet, but it never came, so we settled in for year number five. Meeting new people and exploring a new part of the state is an adventure, but making your furniture fit a new house and the dozens of address changes are a pain. I took care to allow more time for braking, and I carefully avoided any sudden changes in steering due to the unpredictable shimmy that followed.
We now look forward to making this house our home as we get to know the friendly folks in our new community, who have already shared many of their delicious home-grown tomatoes with us!
I was raised in Methodist parsonages all over the Texas Panhandle, and thanks to my wifea€™s second career as a United Methodist pastor, Ia€™ve spent the past 14 years doing the parsonage shuffle again. This past spring we waited for a€?the calla€? from the cabinet, but it never came, so we settled in for year number five.A  The appointments all became official at the churcha€™s Annual Conference held on Memorial Day weekend in Houston. Working towards the deadline of moving day plus remembering the things that must be handled in advance (forward the mail, cancel the papers, notify doctors, etc.) causes anxiety. Today, the preacher owns all the furniture, but the conference pays professional movers to move it.A  Thata€™s great, except that professional movers will not take any responsibility for liquids, so I still have to rent a U-Haul trailer to move all fuel, cleaning liquids, extra drinks, etc.
At this point I realized that we would be heading north without the treadmill, but now what?A  I called NordicTrack and they assured me they could send a team out to disassemble the treadmill in a few days.A  I thought this might work since the house would be vacant for a week. The lawn mower I inherited is nice and fairly new.A  I tried to ride it around the yard, but it got extremely awkward since it has no seat.
There are only a couple of items that have thus far mysteriously failed to appear, and I am a€?this closea€? to having room in the garage for BOTH CARS! The next Sunday Beverly gave her congregation the good news; on Monday she started a new book study group, on Tuesday she got a€?the calla€?! I was also painfully reminded by the aches and pains of my suddenly increased physical labor that this is the oldest Ia€™ve ever been! When the man from the moving company came to do our pre-move inspection, we discovered that the treadmill was larger than the door.
There are only a couple of items that have thus far mysteriously failed to appear, and I am a€?this closea€? to having room in the garage for BOTH CARS!A  The last house had limited storage, which necessitated the use of half the garage. No one seems as impressed with my accomplishment as they probably should, but Ia€™m proud nonetheless! Also like manual molds, when it comes time to eject (harvest) the ice from the mold, it invertsand twists, "popping" out the ice. One of the biggest plusses of this system is that (in theory) every pastor has a church and every church has a pastor. Due to an unusual circumstance in a church far, far away, there was an opening for a pastor and Beva€™s name was submitted.A  Five weeks later our earthly possessions were loaded onto a moving van, and we headed for our new home over 250 miles up Hwy. 69 from the left.A  I saw the large SNAP-ON truck head for my lane, but due to a vehicle in the left turn lane, he did not see me. He recommended that I partially disassemble it prior to moving day to facilitate its removal. This place has tons of storage, but limited closet space, of which the other house had abundance.
The tray then turns back upright and refills with water for the next freeze cycle.HARD-TRAYHard-tray icemakers have a metal ice mold which is coated with a non-stick coating. When I realized that we would soon be attempting to occupy the same physical space, I firmly applied my brake, sat on my horn and headed for the ditch. Fortunately, I was able to slow down enough to let him on and ease back onto the road before hitting the ditch. The transmission converts the rotary motion of the motor to the back-and-forth motion of the agitator. A driveshaft extends from the top of the transmission to the agitator, where it is connected to the agitator, usually by a spline.
The amount of time spent in the freeze cycle is controlled by a number of factors depending on the individual design, but it is best explained by knowing how the harvest cycle is triggered.HARVEST CYCLEThe harvest cycle occurs when the ice is ejected from the ice mold. During agitation, some washers use their pump to circulate water, sucking it from the bottom of the tub and pumping it to the top of the tub.
The pump is driven by the same electric motor. Also during the agitation cycle, bleach or softener may be automatically added. This is usually done by a solenoid valve that allows some of the recirculated water to flush out the bleach or softener dispenser. In some models there is no water circulation involved; the solenoid simply opens a valve or door that lets the dispenser contents drop into the wash water. However, it should be noted that the accumulation of "run" time is, in one way or another, thermostatically controlled. The timer tells this solenoid valve when to open. SPIN AND DRAIN CYCLES After agitation comes a drain cycle, sometimes combined with a spin cycle. For example, Admiral-type flex-tray machines have a thermostat in line with the icemaker timing and drive motor that opens at 19 degrees, and doesn't close again till the freezer temperature drops to 15 degrees.
During the spin cycle, the same motor that drove the agitator now drives a spin tubewhich is concentric with the agitator shaft. A thermostat pressed against the ice mold senses that it is cold enough to ensure that the ice is frozen.
When the harvest mechanism contacts the ice, it stalls until the ice melts enough to release it from the mold. Cubes in the bin might occasionally stick together a little bit because of this liquefication, but they should be easy to separate.In a hard-tray icemaker, the thermostatstartsthe harvest cycle, but it does notendthe cycle.
The mold heater would open the thermostat and end the cycle way too early; long before the mold was refilled.
When the thermostat begins the harvest cycle, a cam attached to the drive motor closes a "holding" switch. Some brands have a lid lock that prevents you from opening the lid when the basket is spinning.At the end of the spin cycle, or whenever the lid is lifted, most models have a braking arrangement that stops the tub from spinning. This switch keeps the drive motor turning until the ice is harvested and the mold refills with water.
When the ejection mechanism is reset, the mold is refilled and the cam reaches the proper position, the cam allows the holding switch to open.
This ends the fill cycle and begins the freeze cycle.FILL CYCLE AND FILL VALVETowards the end of the harvest cycle, a cam on the drive mechanism closes the fill switch.
This switch opens a fill solenoid valve, usually located on the back of the fridge, at the bottom. Most modern washers use dual solenoid valves, which have both hot and cold solenoids in one valve body. The shape of the cam that closes the fill switch controls the length of time the valve stays open. The thermistor's signal goes to the washer's control board (computer,) which opens or closes hot and cold water valves to control the incoming water temperature.When the water in the tub reaches the desired level, the pressure or float switch closes the circuit to the fill valve. A flow control washer within the valve adjusts the flow for variations in house water pressure, so that the same amount of water flows through the valve regardless of water pressure. After a repair, you can't stand there with the freezer door open, waiting for the next harvest cycle, to make sure the machine is working properly. A few old washers used a pressure switch mounted on the BOTTOM of the tub; these are known as water weight switches. Most icemakers are temperature-sensitive, and as the freezer temperature rises and falls, this sensitivity can cause symptoms to be intermittent.Icemakers can behave erratically, and be difficult to diagnose because of it.
But a basic understanding of how a particular design operates can go a long way towards removing the mystery of intermittent malfunctions. The strainers can get clogged up over time and prevent water flow. Shut off the water valves and remove the hoses. Knowing how the icemakershouldoperate may point you towards whatisn'toperating correctly.Has the fridge or freezer seemed warmer or colder than usual? This can point towards refrigerator problems other than the icemaker, such as defrost or sealed system problems. Any higher, and the ice may not freeze fast enough or the thermostat may not trigger a harvest cycle. If you cannot clean the screen sufficiently, you may need to replace it. In some instances, the screen is non-removable, and you will need to replace the hose or valve. Any lower, and the cold may migrate into the refrigerator compartment.Has the freezer or refrigerator door been opened a lot? In some circumstances, this can keep the freezer temperature too high and cause slow or no ice production, or "shelling," where the cube has not frozen completely before the harvest cycle begins.Do not yet discard any "slabbed" ice. If it is too hot or too cold, or if no water is coming out at all, test for voltage across each solenoid coil of the water valve as shown in figure G-5. The ice cubes are "shelling," or not freezing completely before the harvest cycle tries to eject them from the mold. See section 8-2(b).D) The fill tube keeps filling with ice and blocking the flow of fill water. Replace the valve. If you're not getting power to the valve, refer to the wiring diagram for your machine (see section 2-6) and trace the source of the interruption.
Sometimes it's a broken wire, but more commonly, there will be a problem with the water level switch, timer, lid switch, or temperature switch. See section 8-4.8-2(a) SLABBINGThis generally occurs when the ice is not ejecting from the ice mold properly. Replace the defective switch.If your washer is a late-model digital machine with a fill thermistor, a defective thermistor might be sending the wrong signal to the control board. If there are cubes left in the ice mold after a harvest cycle, the new waterfill will overfill the mold for the next batch.
Depending on the design, this may cause the mold to overflow, or it may just cause a thick sheet of ice to fuse together the tops of the cubes too solidly.
In this case, the icemaker can jam and the problem can compound itself rapidly.This can be caused by a number of factors. If your washer has a mercury-tube type lid switch, raising the top of the cabinet may have the same effect on the lid switch as raising the lid. This can simply prevent the ice from dropping into the bin, (Figure S-1) or it can interfere with the ice level sensor arm, preventing the icemaker from shutting off when the bin is full. You will need to jumper the mercury switch to perform any tests when the cabinet top is raised. OVERFILLAs the tub fills, water pressure increases at the bottom of the tub.
Both hard-tray and flex-tray machines are prone to this problem; it is caused by impurities in the fill water.
Before you insert the tube onto the switch, blow into the tube first, to clear it of any water that might have gotten in it. The problem can get so bad that you may see black or gray flakes and sediment in the cubes. In both hard- and flex-tray machines, the solution is usually to replace the ice mold, or just the entire icemaker. But some people would just seal it up so it couldn't overflow, instead of clearing the drain, as they should. If you do this, rinse the mold with a weak chlorine bleach solution and flush with copious amounts of water before you put the mold back into service.
Depending on how bad the drain is backing up, the washer might never fill completely; the solenoid valve will just stay open and water will just keep siphoning straight out the drain. Or, if the drain is a little more clogged and the water is flowing more slowly, the washer might fill and start agitating, but stop agitating after a few minutes and fill some more. The next fill will then cause overfill, and slabbing symptoms may develop.Low water pressure can also cause the valve to leak, sometimes badly enough to overfill or overflow the ice mold.


And since the power to the timer motor is being interrupted, the wash and rinse cycles may seem unusually long. There is a solution, even if you don't want to root out the drain blockage as you should. Your appliance parts dealer has a drain line vacuum break valve, available for just a few bucks. See Section 8-2(c), section 8-3 and Figure S-4.8-2(b) SHELLINGHollow cubes, or "shelling" can occur if the ice cubes are not fully frozen when the harvest cycle begins. Depending on the design, either the harvest cycle is being triggered prematurely, or the cube is not freezing in the allotted time.Shelling may be an early sign of defrost, sealed system or other cooling problems of the refrigerator itself, especially in flex-tray machines. In all washers, it is used to pump water out of the tub at the end of an agitate or soak cycle. The freezer vents in flex-tray machines must direct cold air directly at the surface of the water or the mold, to insure that it will freeze in the alloted time.
Check that nothing is blocking the airstream and that the freezer vent directing air over the icemaker is not damaged, missing or misdirected.In hard-tray machines with shelling symptoms, ice or water left in the mold after harvest may cause overfill and slabbing problems.
Shelling is usually a sign of low waterfill, which allows the mold to get colder faster, triggering the thermostat into a harvest cycle too quickly. Others use a solenoid-activated butterfly valve in the pump body to re-direct the waterflow. Check and adjust the water level (sections 8-5 thru 8-8) or check for low water pressure or the incorrect water valve. Over time it will freeze the tube completely shut.To melt the ice from the tube and clear it, you can use a blow dryer, or blow hot water into the tube with a turkey baster.
The impeller blades can break off due to junk entering the pump; if this happens, the pump may seize up, or it may just stop pumping.
Sediment from improper installation or low water pressure may prevent the valve from closing fully.
If the pump is belt-driven (as it is in many washers) the pulley driving the pump may shear off, or the belt may break. If you have this symptom, especially if it returns after clearing the ice blockage once, start checking for water supply pressure or sediment problems. The belt may ride over the locked pulley, or the motor pulley will continue turning under the belt; this will burn the belt and possibly break it.
There may even be enough tension on the belt to stop the motor from turning. The symptoms can be confusing. For example, a common complaint about a Whirlpool belt-drive washer is that it isn't spinning, accompanied by a strong burning smell. I've seen people tap into hot water pipes, but the piping should be long enough so that water does not fill the icemaker while hot, or the water may not freeze fast enough. The washer doesn't enter the spin cycle because the spin is interlocked with the drain cycle. It is far better to use a cold water line if possible."Saddle valves" are often used on a new installation to pierce into an existing pipe, (Figure F-1) and generally work pretty well. However, you must be careful of using dissimilar metals; for example a copper valve on a galvanized steel pipe. A water supply drawn from a saddle valve on a galvanized pipe is an invitation to scale and sediment problems.Similarly, a saddle valve installed too close to a hot water tank can pick up calcium sediments from the tank itself. Scale and sediments can block the saddle valve and cause low water flow.Low water flow through the saddle valve may cause the same symptoms as low water pressure at the solenoid valve inlet.
If you can't see anything jamming the pump, feel around the inside of the pump inlets and outlets with a pair of needlenose pliers.
They can also get into the solenoid valve seat and prevent the valve from closing fully, causing symptoms from fill tube freeze to slabbing. However, the only long term solution is to secure a better supply, directly from a copper cold-water pipe if possible. Depending on how badly the drain is clogged, there may be a little water or a lot, or it may only overflow every second or third load.
It's a little cheaper, easier to cut and install, and less prone to leakage when you have to move the refrigerator. However, some people feel it's more prone to leakage than copper simply because the material is stronger. That's not been my experience, but it's your call.If you do use plastic, make sure you insert the brass sleeves into the ends (Figure F-2) before installing the compression fittings.
Even if you're not there when it happens and the paper dries out, it will have crinkled up, and you'll know your drain's backing up. If it isn't the drain, run the machine with a full load. Without them, the ends of the plastic could collapse and leak.HOT WATER OR COLD?I've seen people tap into hot water lines to feed the icemaker, but I highly recommendagainstit.
Without moving the machine, get right down on the floor and look under the machine with a flashlight. But when the temperature of the water drops, the heat flow slows to the same rate as if you had just filled it with cool water in the first place. Common complaints and contaminants are chlorine, rust, sand, dirt, sediment, dissolved calcium, organic substances such as PCB's, THM's, herbicides and pesticides, chloramines and detergents, causing bad taste, odors or even health hazards. This book is not intended to be a primer on water filtration; I would in no waybegin to try to pretendto be able advise you what contaminants you need to guard against in your area. For that, you need to hire a water chemist, or talk to your water company or neighbors who might have been through this already.
Some washer pumps have a hole that allows water to weep out when the seal starts to go bad. These contaminants you can pick up independent of what your water company supplies you, through old or inadequate water piping or other house conditions. If the bleach dispenser gets old and brittle, it can crack or break off, and the flush water can leak out.But since the dispenser may only be flushed at certain times in the cycle, this will appear as an intermittent leak. You don't think the pipefitters washed all the bugs and dirt out of the tubing before they brazed it in place, do you?INLINE AND UNDER-SINK (CARTRIDGE) FILTERS(Figures F-3 and F-4)In my opinion, about the only good thing about inline filters (vs.
If a consistent imbalance in the basket has caused it to wear a hole in the tub (not an uncommon experience to old-style GE washers) then you may be able to fix it with an epoxy patch.
Being behind the fridge instead of under the sink, they are harder to get to, and easier toforgetto change.Cartridge-type filters, on the other hand, have replacable cartridges which are relatively easy to get to and change.
One motor is used to do both.Within the transmission there is typically a crank gear and connecting rod arrangement to provide the reciprocating motion to the agitator. Some even have water shutoff valves built right into them to make filter changing even faster and easier. However, some designs use a differential gear, slider, eccentric, or other design. The spin motion comes directly from the rotary motion of the motor, through some clutch arrangement. They are little, if any, more difficult to install initially, and replacement cartridges usually cost less than a new inline filter. Usually there is some kind of reduction arrangement in the belt or gearing. There must also be some mechanism to change between spin and agitate. There are two ways that this is most commonly done. Some washer designs use solenoids to engage and disengage clutches and transmissions. For the agitate cycle, a solenoid (sometimes the same one) disengages the clutch and engages the transmission. For specific information see the chapter about your brand. Many washer designs use a direct-reversing motor. When the motor turns one way, a mechanical arrangement such as a helical shaft, centrifugal clutch or torsion spring engages and spins the basket.
When the new membrane is new, probably half of the water that enters the RO system goes down the drain to flush themembrane. When the motor reverses, the brake locks the basket and the transmission engages, so the agitator agitates.The basket braking arrangement is often a part of the clutch arrangement. If you don't change the elements frequently, then when the membrane gets older and plugged with contaminants, as much as 15 to 20timesas much water goes down the drain as comes out the faucet. Also, water flows through the RO membrane very slowly, so it can drop water pressure at the tap considerably.Most manufacturers recommend AGAINST an icemaker water supply coming from an RO system.
If you see any of the problems shown in figure G-8, replace it. Broken or worn out belts are a common problem.
See the chapter on your brand for specific details about changing the belt(s) on your model.
I have been personally using an RO system on my Whirlpool crescent cube icemaker for two years now and I am tickled with the results; ice as clear and clean tasting as our drinking water, and no scale or calcium deposits. But if you understand the risks, and the RO system doesn't drop the water pressure too low, it can be done.8-3(b) FILL SOLENOID VALVEWater fill volume is controlled by a couple of things. If the shaft is rotating but the agitator is not, replace the agitator or spline insert.2-5(c) TRANSMISSIONSTransmissions in general are pretty bullet-proof, and rarely experience problems beyond a little oil loss.
For one, the length of time the valve stays open, which is usually controlled by a cam in the icemaker head, which closes a switch for the proper amount of time. Aflow control washerwithin the valve adjusts the flow for variations in house water pressure. However, if the water pressure is below about 20 psi at the solenoid valve inlet, problems can occur. Try turning the motor by hand, or pull the belt so everything rotates. Be careful you don't pinch your fingers between the belt and pulley! Check to see that every pulley that the belt rides is rotating. If the cube is too small, it may not eject properly, and the next fill may cause overfill.Water solenoids operate using a pressure diaphragm with pressure on both sides of the diaphragm.
Disengage the drive system (remove the belt, etc.) Try to turn the transmission drive pulley with your hand.
Also check the movement of the pump, and any tensioner or idler pulley that may be present. Do not try to rebuild your own transmission. Typically, rebuilding requires special tools that drive the cost above that of buying a rebuilt transmission. Different icemakers require a wide variety of fill volumes, from about 3 ounces in certain GE units to as much as 8 ounces in Admiral-type machines. The valve bodies might look the same from the outside, but you must make sure the valve is the correct one (has the correct flow control washer) for the icemaker you're working on. Due to some parts business politics, I can't mention brand names in this book, but your parts dealer will probably be happy to privately let you know which ones they are.2-6 TESTING ELECTRICAL COMPONENTSSometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. If someone has previously replaced the solenoid valve, and you experience low flow problems or slabbing in an icemaker, double check that the valve is the correct one. It is ESPECIALLY important in diagnosing a bad timer. If you already know how to read a wiring diagram, you can skip this section. This is acriticallyimportant point.8-3(c) TESTING AND ADJUSTING FILL VOLUMETo test fill volume, remove the icemaker from its freezer wall mounting (but leave it plugged in) and initiate a harvest cycle if possible. If you're one of those folks who's a bit timid around electricity, all I can say is read on, and don't be too nervous. Baby bottles are generally just about the right size for testing fill volume; most are graduated in both cc's and ounces. A good rule of thumb is that one fluid ounce equals about 30 cc's.Water fill level can be adjusted onsomeicemakers.
See sections 8-5 thru 8-8 about your design.8-4 SLOW OR NO ICE PRODUCTIONThere are a number of things that will slow or stop the production of ice. If you are working on an icemaker where you can do so, a good start is to try to manually trigger a harvest cycle and watch what happens.
The wiring and switches that are shown as thick lines are inside of the timer. The small circles all over the diagram are terminals.
However, there a few common causes.8-4(a) FREEZER TEMPERATURECheck the freezer temperature. Any wiring enclosed by a shaded or dotted box is internal to a switch assembly and must be tested as described in sections 2-6(c) and 2-6(d). Switches may be numbered on the diagram, but that number will not be found on the switch. In most icemakers, a freezer temperature above about 15 degrees may cause icemakers not to harvest or to have other ice production problems. If the freezer temperature is hovering right around the thermostat temperature setting, the icemaker's thermostat may open and close, causing slow or intermittent ice production. If the freezer temperature is not low enough, check the refrigerator's temperature settings.High freezer temperatures may also mean that therefrigeratorhas cooling problems such as defrost or sealed system malfunctions. If adjusting the controls doesn't lower the freezer temperature, see Chapters 4 and 5.8-4(b) POWER SUPPLYCheck that the icemaker is getting power. Unplug it from the freezer wall socket and see if you have power between at least two of the terminals.8-4(c) WATER SUPPLYCheck also that the icemaker is getting water. If possible, unmount the icemaker from the freezer wall and manually initiate a harvest cycle. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet. Following the gray-shaded circuit in figure G-9(a), the electricity flows through the black wire (L1) to the push-pull switch.
This switch is located inside of the timer (you know this because it is drawn with thick lines) and it must be closed. The power then goes through the violet wire to the water level switch (which must have a LOW water level,) then through the pink wire back into the timer.


It then comes out of the timer in a red wire with a white stripe (R-W) that leads to the lid switch (which must be closed.) From the lid switch, it goes through a red wire to the spin solenoid. Finally it leaves the spin solenoid in a white wire, which leads back to the main power cord (L2). If you're not sure whether a certain switch or component is a part of the circuit you're diagnosing, assume that it is and test it. If you have a motor problem that you think you've traced to the timer, don't bother trying to figure out which switch goes to which part of the motor. The electronic one has a circuit board and an on-off rocker switch on the right side of the icemaker head.Most of the symptoms and the malfunctions between the three designs are similar. However, the internal differences between them are pretty pronounced, so testing and troubleshooting are quite different.8-5(a) MODULAR CRESCENT CUBE DESIGN OPERATIONThe harvest cycle on these icemakers is thermostatically triggered. Looking at the diagram, the push-pull switch controls a lot of other things besides the spin solenoid.
Very shortly thereafter, a cam on the drive shaft closes the holding switch, keeping the motor circuit energized even after the thermostat opens back up. The motor then stalls, with the ejection fingers applying pressure to the ice, until the mold heats up enough for the cubes to separate from the mold.
You may need to use jumpers to extend the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is; there is no magic way. If the ice level in the bin is too high, or if you raise the arm to the shutoff position, this switch opens and interrupts the thermostat circuit. The icemaker then will not enter a harvest cycle until the sensor arm is allowed to return to its full down position. During the harvest cycle, a cam raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch keeps the motor turning.
So you've just replaced the pump, and you're standing there with the lid open, admiring how well it's pumping out, when you notice it still isn't spinning. There is an adjustment screw on the right side of the icemaker head; one full turn equals 40cc's. Some models have water level adjustment dials on the right side of the plastic icemaker head cover that attach to this screw. For example, if your basket won't spin at all, you will check all the obvious stuff (lid switch, spin clutch solenoid, transmission, etc.) But will you think to check the imbalance switch? This screw simply moves the fill switch closer to the cam on the drive shaft, keeping it open longer, or vice-versa.
The maximum adjustment on these machines is one full turn in either direction; any more will damage the icemaker head.
When adjusting the level, do it gently and do not attempt to force it AT ALL.TROUBLESHOOTINGAside from water supply problems, what usually goes wrong with these machines is that the thermostat (bimetal) fails.
In some designs, it also prevents the tub from filling or the agitator from agitating while the lid is open. To jump the thermostat and trigger a harvest cycle, just jumper between the T and H test point holes.
To reset this interlock, the lid must be opened and closed or the timer turned off and back on.
THEY ARE THERE FOR A REASON.2-6(a) SWITCHES AND SOLENOIDSTesting switches and solenoids is pretty straightforward. In this case, you would see the ejection fingers pressed against the ice, trying to eject it, but it would not eject.
Under power, test for line voltage between the L and H test point holes; if it is energized, then power is going to the heater. Unplug and test for resistance between the same test points; the heater should test 72 ohms. If it shows no resistance, it's shorted.2-6(b) WATER LEVEL SWITCHESWater level diaphragm switches are usually shown on a wiring diagram by the symbol in figure G-10.
If not, replace the mold.If the drive motor isn't turning at a time when it should be, test for 110 volts between L and M to see if the motor is energized.
The numbering or lettering of the terminals may differ, but basically all switches are tested the same way. To test the switch, first fill the tub to the highest water level.
Some have water level adjustment dials on the right side of the plastic icemaker head cover.The harvest cycle on these icemakers is thermostatically triggered. See the chapter about your brand for details about the labelling of the switch leads.2-6(c) TIMERSThe timer is the brain of the washer. In addition to telling the motor when and which way to run, it tells any clutch solenoids when to engage, the fill valve when to open, dispenser solenoids when to open, etc.Most washers still have mechanical, that is, motor-operated timers.
Very shortly thereafter, a cam on the drive shaft closes the holding switch, keeping the motor circuit energized and turning even after the thermostat opens back up.
Some newer machines have digital timers and control (computer) boards. Diagnosing digital machines is often a matter of reading the digital fault code or performing a self test. Testing procedures and fault codes for individual models can usually be found on a paper located inside the console. A mechanical timer is nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches. Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your washer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem. The fingers then continue pushing the ice out of the mold.The thermostat stays closed throughout the first rotation of the ejection fingers. Near the completion of the first rotation, another cam attached to the driveshaft closes the fill switch, butwater fill does not occur. The shutoff switch is closed, and offers a lot less resistance than the water valve circuit. If you buy one, and it turns out not to be the problem, you've just wasted the money.In a wiring diagram, a mechanical timer may appear in two different ways (Figure G-11). Near the completion of the second rotation, the fill switch closes again for about 7-8 seconds, and this time the mold fills with water. Replace the timer or timer drive motor, or have it rebuilt as described below. Timers can be difficult to diagnose. If none of the other components are bad, then it may be the timer. Remember that a timer is simply a set of on-off switches. Timer wires are color-coded or number-coded.Let's say you've got a spin solenoid problem that you think you've traced to your timer.
During the harvest cycle, a cam raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch is still closed, which keeps the motor turning. When you remove the plastic cover, you will see the motor gear turning and disengaged from the larger ejection drive gear.
Make sure the timer is in the "on" position and slowly turn the timer all the way through a full cycle. The motor gear can be pressed back on and glued with superglue.Some of these machines have a "chiclet"-type thermal fuse (figure X-8) attached to the underside of the ice mold, near the icemaker head.
If this fuse blows, the icemaker will not harvest, nor will the motor start when you try to manually initiate a harvest cycle. Whirlpool Direct Drive models (chapter 4) are this way.You must simply test the timer one click at a time. Be patient!) You should see continuity make and break at least once in the cycle; usually many times. The Whirlpool Direct-Drive models (Chapter 4) are prone to this confusing problem, though it's not too terribly common. The symptoms are that when you open the lid at the end of the cycle, the tub hasn't drained. The other two microswitches are the waterfill switch and the holding switch, both cam-operated. The motor doesn't get a chance to start in the opposite direction, so it continues to run in the same direction (agitate) until something interrupts the circuit and stops the motor. Fortunately, they're pretty much commodity items at this point, and can be replaced for well under a hundred bucks.8-6 GE "BULLET" OR "BARREL" CUBE MACHINESThese machines produce five cylindrical cubes per harvest. If it's a common one, your parts dealer may even have a rebuilt one in stock. For the most part, if your timer is acting up, you need to replace it. If there is an ice dispenser in the door, you may need to turn down the crescent cube size a little to get the cubes to go through the door properly.OPERATIONThe harvest cycle begins thermostatically at about 16 degrees. An ejection shaft through the bottom of the ice mold is attached to an ejection pad, which pushes the cubes vertically from the mold. For example, with the temperature switch shown in figure G-13 set on "Warm wash, Cold rinse" all the switches marked with a "WC" will be closed. There is no WC marking next to the middle switch, so the switch should be open.You should see no continuity with your VOM. During the harvest cycle, the mechanism raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch keeps the motor turning.
Test the switch similarly for all settings.2-6(e) DRIVE MOTORS, START SWITCH, AND CAPACITORSA motor that is trying to start, but can't for whatever reason, is using one heckuva lot of electricity. So much, in fact, that if it is allowed to continue being energized in a stalled state, it will start burning wires.
To prevent this, an overload switch is installed on motors to cut power to them if they don't start within a certain amount of time. If the motor is trying to start, but can't, you will hear certain things.
The icemaker will not be producing ice, and you're sure the freezer is cold enough, but manually jumping the thermostat produces a harvest.There are two test connections on the underside of the icemaker head. In both, a small rectangular plug in the bottom of the icemaker head can be removed to reveal two small holes. In some extreme cases, you may even smell burning. If you hear the motor doing this, but it won't start, disconnect power and take all the load off it. For example, disconnect the drive belt, pump drive system, etc. Try to start the motor again.
When the harvest cycle is initiated, it takes about eight minutes for the tray to rotate completely around and refill. Above 19 degrees, it will not produce ice at all.You can tell if the motor is turning by looking at the end of the motor shaft as shown on the illustration. You can discharge it by shorting the two terminals on your capacitor with your screwdriver. There is an adjustment screw on the right side of the head, but the factory glues it in place during construction. Be careful not to touch the metal part of your screwdriver with your hands while you do this. After discharging the capacitor, disconnect its leads and test it.
In fact, the factory doesn't want you messing with these machines at all; if they malfunction, the solution is to replace them. I have had a couple of these icemakers apart and I'd have to agree with the factory in this case. Initially, the meter should bounce towards the right of the scale (good continuity), then slowly move back to the left side a bit as the capacitor builds resistance.Reverse the two probes on the terminals. If you do not get these readings, replace the capacitor. STARTING SWITCH Only GE-built machines have an external, replaceable current-relay starting switch. After you replace your old one, try pulling it apart and reassembling it and you'll see what I mean.A conversion kit is available to convert the refrigerator to a crescent-cube design, and I would highly recommend it. See the GE chapter for testing. Most other machines have a centrifugal starting switch mounted piggyback on the motor. Testing the switch is most easily accomplished by replacing it. Remember that starting switches are electrical parts, which are generally not returnable. Instructions will be included in the conversion kit.During the harvest cycle in this design, the twisting action of the ice tray ends with a relatively violent SNAP! If you test the switch by replacing it, and the problem turns out to be the motor itself, you will probably not be able to return the starting switch for a refund. Over time this can have several adverse effects.The icemaker can begin to pull its wall mounts out of the freezer wall.
Cubes on the high side of the mold may be too small, while cubes on the low side may be too large or even slab together, and fail to eject.The plastic mold (tray) can crack, especially around the hub. If it is, there are a number of things that could be causing the icemaker to stop making cubes, but the solution to all of them seems to be to throw a new gear and pin set in both the front and back of the icemaker head. Gear alignment instructions are included with the new gears.There is no way to manually initiate a harvest cycle in these machines. When you replace and realign the gears and reinstall the icemaker, it will immediately enter a harvest cycle and fill with water.Time only accumulates on these icemakers when the cold control (the refrigerator's thermostat) is closed and the compressor is running.
If the doors remain closed, the ambient air temperature (outside of the fridge) is low, and the compressor doesn't run much, you may experience low ice production.
Thus, the icemaker must be plugged in at all times, even if it's not being used to make ice.
If you no longer use the icemaker and wish to remove it from your machine, a module is available that replaces the icemaker with a smaller "box" unit that just performs the defrost function.



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