How to make panel doors with a router 724v,canadian woodworking magazine download blogspot,altra bookcase with toy chest nyc - Plans Download

17.08.2015
When picking the materials for the main panel, it all comes down to the anticipated finish.
Our next (and final) part to this series will look at constructing and assembling the pieces to our raised panel doors. Door-making is not as difficult to master as you might think, and this project will give you all you need to know to build a simple interior door. Making your own doors is not as difficult as you might imagine, and the design possibilities are almost unlimited.
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of using dry, straight-grained lumber for a project such as this. The materials list shows the material required to make one 30" x 80" door, a common size, but it can easily be adapted to suit doors of other dimensions. Adding raised panel doors allows you to be more creative with the style of door that you choose to replace existing kitchen doors. BELOW: Raised panel door with routed edge and pine profile, but without centre raised panel. Research the type of style that would work best for your kitchen design and then shop around for mouldings and trim. Cut the frame section, or have these cut, to the exact outer size required for each door - the actual size of the door once it has been finished. Use a table saw, mitre saw or mitre box and backsaw to cut the frame ends at a 45° angle. Cut biscuit slots, or drill pocket holes to join the frame together, but don't join just yet. The back centre panel needs to be the width and length of the door minus the size of the frame and plus 6mm in order to fit into the grooves set in the frame. If you have a router you can use a slot cutter to create the groove in the frame to fit the back centre panel. If you want a raised panel in the centre of the door, cut Section D to size, allowing extra space for a pine profile around the outside of the panel.


Assemble the frame around the centre back panel by inserting biscuits and then glue together.
Note: The one disadvantage of joining by the pockethole method is that holes will be visible at the back of the door.
A quick and easy way to fill pocket holes is to cut some pine dowels to a 45° angle at one end. Sign me up for free emails from Fine Homebuilding with the latest news, tips, and techniques. The final step was to cut out the holes for the door lock, the door handle and the window crank. The Main Raised Panel - This panel is the body of the door and it makes the bulk of the impression. The main panel of a raised panel door is actually floating, to account for the natural movement of wood due to heat and humidity. The upgrade from run-of-the-mill builder’s doors to solid-core Colonial-style doors in this project made a dramatic improvement in the look of a house. I make a number of doors each year in different styles for clients whose homes range in age from brand-new to more than 80 years old. Knotty pine is inexpensive, easy to work with and the knots can be sealed to prevent them from bleeding through the painted topcoat easily by applying two coats of shellac-based primer. When I began this project, the moisture content of this material was approximately seven per cent, which is just about the perfect level for making doors and means future dimensional changes of the frame should be minimal. Simply by building up and adding pine profiles, moulding or trim, there are a variety of door styles that you can put together. Because our overlay door overlaps the opening on all four sides, we'll make it 25mm longer and 10mm wider than the opening. Cut a piece of 3mm PG Bison SupaWood to the exact size of the door; glue and clamp this onto the back of the door.
The panel cutter is the largest bit of the kit, and the MLCS bit adds a back cutter to make the panel fit flush with the back of the door.


When the grain will shine with a stain finish, the choice of wood comes down to cost, look, and personal preference. These pieces integrate seamlessly into the stiles, which are the horizontal pieces that fit along the top and bottom of the doors. Leaving a bit of a gap in the door is mandatory to make sure the door doesn't warp after installation. There are plenty of configurations to choose from, it will all come down to matching other styles in the house and personal preference. If you want to paint your doors, substitute PG Bison SupaWood (MDF) for the solid stock and birch-veneer plywood for a glass-smooth finish. Use pine profile, moulding or trim - Sections E & F - to create a frame around the front centre panel and glue this in place. If a joint slips out of alignment, loosen the clamps on that joint, adjust the joint, and reclamp it.
We cut the wood with a table saw to get the basic square shape, and then used a little hacksaw and sandpaper to shape the rounded corners.
Because the bit is so large, multiple passes should be planned to make the cut smooth and clean.
Take a look at a few inserts like the space balls or spacing tape to make sure the panels don't rattle when kids slam those doors. Sidenote - assembling the center panel in a large door may require gluing up a few smaller pieces into one larger panel, use the glue joint bit to make them up and cut to size.
Also, be sure to cut the endgrain of the panels first so that any blowout will be handled when cutting with the grain. The nice part about this type of hinge is a simple installation by drilling a single large hole and securing with a few screws.




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