How to shim an interior door frame,simple project plan for building a house,floating wall shelves for books 2014 - New On 2016

Interior doors are so pervasive in our daily lives that we scarcely seem to notice them anymore. The difference between a prehung door and a slab door is that the prehung door is built into a jamb and has the hinges in place.
Installing or replacing an interior door is a simple task if you follow the proper steps and have the right tools. Once the jamb is in place any design of door, or “slab” from colonial patterns to French doors can be installed using specific door knobs and hinges to match.
When we talk about a 30″ door, we are talking about the width of the door slab itself. Both the number of hinges used and their size depends on the type of door and how thick it is. Go no deeper than the thickness of the hinge and smooth the bottom of the mortise so that hinge is flush with the edge of the door. If the hole saw is not capable of cutting all the way through, turn the door over and use the pilot hole to drill from the opposite side. Split-jamb pre-hung doors work well in situations where the rough frame is wider than a standard opening.
With a split-jamb door, each half of the jamb is installed separately, beginning with the side that holds the hinges.
Set the side with the door stop in the opening and tack through the casing about 12-inches from the top.

Inset the other half of the split-jamb into the first half and gently push it into place until the casing reaches the wall. Yet a properly selected and installed interior door can enhance any decor and perhaps force us to take notice. This means that once it is inserted in the rough stud opening, it only needs a lockset and trim and it is finished. At the top is the head jamb and this is flanked on each side of the door frame by a side jamb, one for the lock side and the other on the hinge side. Check the accuracy by laying it on a flat surface and then note the position of the bubble. Hollow core interior doors usually have two hinges while the heavier, solid-core doors should have at least three. By laying the door flat, the paint or stain will be much easier to apply and will not run or leave drip lines.
Measure the door frame between the jack studs (vertical studs) starting under the header and at floor level to make sure the combined width of the door slab and the door jamb will fit. Insert cedar shims firmly between the jambs and the wall on both sides, one under the other over top. Turn the door on its edge and anchor between two sawhorses to provide steadiness for working on the hinges.
Depending on the thickness of the door, determine the location of the hinge butt and draw the outline on the door edge.

Predrill the holes for the hinge plates and attach hinges to the door with screw supplied with the hinges. Fit the door inside the frame and shim the bottom so that the top of the door slab and the sides have equal spacing. Place face plate and latch assembly into the hole and hold in place with screws supplied with the lockset. Swing the door so that the latch touches on the doorframe and mark the position of the latch on the doorframe jamb. Once the first half is completely installed, the second half slides neatly into place using a nifty tongue and groove joint.
Use 6d finish nails to nail through both halves of the jamb right in the center of the stop. Add the width of the door slab to make sure that the combined door unit will fit in the door frame.
Note that if you want to keep your washer and dryer in the bathroom, you should install a 32″ door (or greater), if space allows.
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