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For those who are creating double-doors, divide your width measurement to determined the width of each individual door.
Next, measure how tall you want your doors to be, and take into account about an inch for space between the door and floor. Once you know how many pieces of wood you plan to use for each door, mark each individual piece by the height measurement you took before. If you plan to use the sliding door system you will need to keep into account where the stud is that the track will be mounted to, as well as the length of the sliders. Flip over your door and repeat these steps, positioning your top and bottom wood at the same measurement. Next, take a protractor and measure the angle that you will have to cut your wood, and mark the angle straight across with a pencil.
This is a bit difficult to explain, but I hope the photo above can help show what I am trying to say. When building your doors, when you measure the height you need to take into account how much space you want separated from the bottom of the floor. Hi Kristen, there’s a link in the post for how we created the hardware for the doors. I’m not sure how that works, try googling the problem – my platform is WordPress if that helps! Also, it looks like a lot of people have installed a reinforcement header board to mount the hardware to for extra support. Our could sway forward if pushed, but we considered creating something so that wouldn’t happen but never thought it seemed overly neccessary. I bought them from a little country store called Grampie’s country store or something similar in Nova Scotia. I have been looking for something to do with a living room close to my front door that is open.
Step 1 – Design your door layout We chose beadboard paneling boards, which had tongue-and-groove edges. Although this barn door idea seems to be really catching on lately, for indoor home use, the hard-core barn door track & trolley systems are soooo darn expensive!
I was just about to give up and step down my expectations and just do a simple bifold door into the bath. Without your very considerate post here, those of us out here who could never afford the fancy tracking that all other barn door idea pages are pointing you to, would just be out of luck.
Sorry I did ramble here, but really…I couldn’t be any more excited and relieved than I am right now! Ok so this is perfect for our closet door solution for our office to 4th bedroom conversion (10 weeks til our little bundle arrives!). I was all set to make my own barn door, per your instructions, but I found a reclaimed one at our local architectural salvage. I love the look of these doors but yes the hardware is so expensive plus I too am impatient.. A barn door track system will turn any doorway into an amazing room that you would expect to see on pinterest. Commonly known as flat track hardware or sliding barn door track, this look is becoming more and more popular each month.
Make sure if you are creating these doors to go along with the sliding track that there is enough room for them to open. Remember this will probably be a bit less or a bit more than the measurement you took, since it’s determined by the amount of wood you are using.

This is to create extra support to hang your doors if you are hanging them from the sliding track. Lay an 8 ft piece of 1×4 diagonally across your door from one corner to the other, the same way you would have drawn a straight line. Again, drill pilot holes through the diagonal piece into each vertical 1×6, and then drill your screws through your pilot holes.
I have been wanting sliding barn doors for our office that opens to our family room, but the price of the railing alone has held us back! My question is that I didn’t see in your tutorial where you said what the horizontal piece of wood is on the backside of the doors at the top? If you use thinner wood like I did (which allows the doors to be lightweight) adding this piece of wood adds thickness and security for the sliders to hold onto the door.
I built these for our master Bathroom, cant wait to hang them once the master bath is finished.
Some people prefer to use a conditioner on their wood prior to staining to ensure the stain takes to the wood evenly.
I’m in the process of building my own barn door and this is the best step by step I’ve seen so far! The only things I did differently was I didn’t pre-drill the screw holes (I used pine and it is soft enough to go through without any problems) and, the best part, I screwed the Z boards from the BACK of the door = no visible screw heads!
Now I have an idea thank to you, my husband can totally do this and it will look really cute. We don’t have a door into our bathroom area too (at least there is one on the toilet room door!), so this would be an awesome fix. I never thought of making a barn door myself, I thought you had to be lucky enough to find an old antique door! I think two doors in one room would look really nice, you’re so right about the architectural interest. Like you, we really wanted a barn door, but just don’t have the budget to spend $300-400 on an interior door.
Minwax for both, the brown is Polyshades in Walnut, and the blue came in a tube like paint almost. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
Also, we don’t find the doors drag because the 90 degree elbows bring the pipe out from the wall, allowing some space between the walls and the doors. Unfortunately, I don’t have a cost break down, but I can assure you building both the doors & the hardware was fairly inexpensive! When we moved into our new home and started living in a master suite with no door to the bathroom, I knew this door would be the perfect solution. Although we have lived with it for 2 years now so who knows if we will actually do anything about it! I’ve been adamant about having a pocket door for the bathroom (we currently have a regular door, but it takes up too much space) and after seeing your post I think this door would be better.
I mean, the cheapest one I found was about $368, and of course that’s not including the cost of shipping a very heavy product. I’m trying to get a bath and a half out of one bathroom and the doors were causing me problems. Well we started yesterday and with the help of your tutorial it was a breeze for my husband to complete. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois).

After doing a little preliminary research, ordering the hardware would cost us upwards of $100, and waiting on shipping. This door provides some architectural interest and would be so much easier than a pocket door. This is a great solution to give me more space in the bathrooms and not have the doors swinging out into the living area. I know how you feel about the cat, my husband has a red heeler that’s pretty much the bane of my existence when it comes to cleaning up all that shed hair!
Actually, the walk-in close is on the same wall with a single door with a full-length mirror on the outside. I have been trying to figure out, for a very long time, how to afford $$ to do this door between my master bed and bath. The sliding track hardware industry if fairly new so there aren’t many companies that make this type of detailed metal work. Want to see how to build your own barn door completely from scratch, all for $140, including the hardware? I’d rather have two of these barn doors and convert the mirrored door to a standing mirror. The plate also comes in shiny silver metal, so we sprayed ours with hammered bronze paint before attaching it. We needed about 5 feet of it, so my husband used our grinder with a cutting wheel and sliced off about a foot. Now, if your door is in the center of a wall, then you’re totally fine without this little L-bracket. The bright side is that they also serve as a stop before the door smacks into your other wall.
You’ll need to find the studs on your wall, and measure from your end point on your rail to where your studs are and mark them. One little one for the screw to go through, and a larger one for your drill to fit through. This is so you can screw the rail into the studs without them blocking the trolley mechanism. Here’s a visual Step 5  – Attach trolley rail to the wall See how large the hole is on the rail? You can just spot it about halfway down from the Husbane’s hand to the end of it on the left.
It’s large so you can fit a drill extension bit through it to drive a screw into the wall behind it. You’ll want to attach it into studs in at least two places, and on the end with the bracket.
We specifically did not cut down our 8 foot boards until the end here, because we knew we wanted the door to extend past the rail. You can stick with the ones that come in the box with your trolley wheels, or get your own smaller ones (which is what we did).
We had a little scratching to our paint due to the door sliding, so tonight we plan to pop this bad boy off and hot glue on a little scrap felt for easier gliding.
I think I’m also going to try applying a wax to mute and antique that bright blue just a bit.

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