Make your own barn door rollers video,woodworking hand tools india,make desktop icons permanently - 2016 Feature

13.04.2015
If you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now. So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries.
You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to. Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door. This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it.
Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track. I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. I'm Sabrina, and I love to make pretty things, visit inspiring places, eat really good food, and take lots of photos along the way.
My bedroom transformation is well on its way with the completion of my barn door headboard! I wasn’t planning to make a headboard out of barn doors, but I guess it was meant to be.
Our loft is on the small side, and we don’t have a basement, garage or other large storage area. It was dark by the time we got home with the doors, and I couldn’t work on them immediately. I waited until the next weekend to clean the doors so I could work outside during daylight. I filled the first bucket with warm water and a mild detergent (a few drops of Shaklee Basic H—but you could use dishwashing liquid) and the second bucket with clean warm water. Once the doors and board were sufficiently scrubbed, I propped them up outside to let them dry. The day after scrubbing the doors and board clean, I decided to treat the wood using a Borax solution. I mixed 3 cups of Borax into 1 gallon of warm water and stirred to dissolve as much of it as possible. After treating the wood with the Borax solution, I let the doors and board dry all day outside and then for another six days inside since I had to wait for another weekend to continue the process. Instead of working outside in the wind, I covered the guest bathroom in the plastic drop cloth and brushed down the wood board in the tub. If I wanted to stain the wood, I would have done that after thoroughly cleaning the wood from the Borax treatment.
The true test came when I moved the decorative pillows that were leaning up against the doors. I’ll share how the updates are going, but in the meantime, please let me know if you have any questions!
Sabrina - I’m excited to share that my barn door headboard is featured in Bob Vila’s Thumbs Up blogger contest! Rustic barn door Headboards look extremely contemporary and add a cultural look to your barn. The cookie settings on this website are set to "allow cookies" to give you the best browsing experience possible. Other parts include a site-made Z-brace, lag screws (which we painted), and a fruitwood stain we used to mimic assembly details of a door you’d find on an actual bar.
On the wall in the backer location, make a small mark showing the center-line of the backer on the right side. There’s really nothing that says “I did this” like making all the pieces to a project such as a door—something people touch and use everyday.
Three winners will be chosen to receive the following prize packages, each will include: 1.


They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware! It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place.
Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle.
This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them. The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us. Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes. We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater.
Though I live with my husband in Atlanta, GA, I consider the world my home, and I can't wait to see more of it. I found lots of info on building your own headboard using wooden boards, and I also ran across tutorials on faking the reclaimed wood, but there wasn’t a tutorial on reclaiming your own wood from a barn and making a headboard out of it. I knew I wanted to replace our headboard, and I was searching Craigslist for reclaimed wood when I ran across a listing for an old barn being taken apart and sold by the board.
The barn was an honest-to-goodness barn, complete with the charming stench of horse manure.
I originally planned to turn one door on its side and mount it to wooden legs, but then I realized that it would have been far too narrow for my wide king-sized bed.
I realized that it was really important to figure out a good spot to store the doors while I worked on them.
I removed the dangerous nails that were sticking out and wedged the doors between the treadmill and the wall in our office, covered in one of those plastic blue tarps. Because I live in a loft-condo, I’m very limited in the options I have for cleaning large items like these doors. I dipped the brush into the soapy water and began scrubbing the doors down, alternating every now and then with clean water to rinse off the soap and dirt. Borax has the same primary ingredient as Boracare (borate), but it’s much safer for people.
My original plan was to spray the solution onto the wood, but that worked for about three minutes before the spray bottle became clogged by the Borax crystals solidifying. My plan was to lay out a huge plastic drop cloth on my patio, move the doors back outside, and brush the crystals off. Then I realized that there was no way the barn doors were going to make it into the guest bath tub gracefully, so I moved the drop cloth and set up a little work area in the living room.
Downward strokes ensured that the crystals and any remaining dirt fell down onto the drop cloth instead of flying through the air.
I moved the old headboard out of the way and carefully moved the single doors into place, side-by-side.
I want to get a pair of those little furniture wedges to try to tilt the doors toward the center a bit and minimize the gap. Since they are white, I honestly expected them to show at least a little red dirt, but they were spotless! I attended a Benjamin Moore color workshop at west elm tonight, so now I’m jazzed about picking paint colors. Whether it's letterpressing custom stationery or creating photographic memories in a far-flung destination, she's smitten with the process of creating and is always learning a new hobby. The only suggestion I have is to either let the wood age and weather to the gray color you’re looking for, or perhaps you could prepare a driftwood stain (gray-colored stain) wash and treat your wood with that. Putting a barn door in your bedroom might sound a little weird but as you can see, it looks very nice.
After getting them home, I have seen a lot of bent nails all over the doors and I cant get them out without damaging the wood.


If you continue to use this website without changing your cookie settings or you click "Accept" below then you are consenting to this. The rail backer is a piece of 1-by and its job is to project the rollers and door slab past the existing door casing. That bit's not quite finished yet, though, so believe me when I say I'm probably WAY more excited to see this than you guys are. Bring an old blanket to protect your seats and cargo bed from the doors, as they may be filthy and full of nails. I didn’t want them to be in the way, especially while they were still straight-from-the-barn dirty.
It took me a couple of hours to scrub down the barn wood board and both doors, front and back. I ended up changing from my leather work gloves to latex gloves and soaking a sponge with the solution. This weekend was insanely windy though, and I was worried about the crystals flying into my hair and my eyes, even though I am a safety nerd and wear the oh-so-stylish safety goggles and dust mask while I work.
I don’t have any photos of that, but it seriously looked like a HazMat area with everything covered in plastic and me waving around my gong brush while decked out in goggles and a face mask.
I vacuumed the drop cloth with my DustBuster a few times while I was working, and when every surface of the doors had been brushed, I rolled up the drop cloth and stuffed it into a garbage bag. However, before placing the barn door near the bed, it had to be properly cleaned and disinfected as it could have contained a lot of germs.
The door makes the space private, helps to deaden noise coming into and going out of the kitchen, and works great with kids. Having the rail 6 inches above the head jamb looked great, and projecting it 3 inches proud of the rail on each side worked nicely, too. Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. I immediately thought of using a barn door for the headboard, thinking it would be cooler than a store-bought headboard and easier than building my own from scratch. I also bought one standalone barn wood board in case I decided to add extra width to the headboard. That might have worked, but I would have been worried about damaging the wood and metal hinges. I then pressed the sponge onto the surface of the wood, making sure to cover every exposed piece of the doors I could reach—front, back, top and bottom.
The doors are a little crooked, so I placed the single barn wood board behind the middle of the headboard, where the two doors should meet and instead leave a rather large gap. I had also thought a warmer shade of white would match the warm wood headboard better, but the Benjamin Moore color consultant suggested I use a cooler white on the walls with the warm wood headboard as the focal piece. If you want to explore this wonderful experience, click on the link and follow the simple systematic procedure for making an elegant and sturdy rustic barn door headboard. A barn door is a door slab that slides left and right on wall-mounted hardware—stout rollers suspended from a steel bar—in front of the door opening. From a design standpoint it adds color, texture and function to an otherwise empty doorway. That’s wide enough to cover a little casing on either side of the door, but thin enough to slide fully open. This took way longer than spraying would have taken, but I was satisfied that I was able to sufficiently soak the wood in the solution. If you have old nails that can’t be removed without damaging the doors, I would try hammering them and bending them to lay as flush to the surface of the doors as possible. For an additional $300, you can, per their description, “Change the style of our bed by adding a barn door headboard.
Theoretically, any pests in the wood will either dry out or eat the borate in the wood and die.
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