Making a sliding door wardrobe black,over the sofa snack table,dell studio 7100 desktop,make your own coffee table with storage ottomans - PDF Books

11.02.2014
April 25, 2012 by The Accent Piece 133 Comments If you missed the first part, you can find it here.
Hold it up to the door so you know how far to drill your hole.  Since the hanger will sit flush against the door, there needs to be a hole for the bolt to sit in.
Then attach the rolling part to the hanging part.  I know, these technical terms can be overwhelming. Now the hanger part fits flush against the top of the door since you drilled a hole for the bolt to slide in to.
Now that the hardware is installed on the door, you can install the box rail to the wall.  Find your studs (insert cliche joke about my stud being on the left in the picture below) and mark every stud. Oh my goodness… Hanging it was more complicated than making it but the results are amazing.
I think it would look really good and work well to mill in both sides about half an inch or so and find inset plates for a door grab! Just google “sailboat hardware recessed” and you will find exactly what you need!
Ironically Ive been thinking about installing a sliding door on our bedroom for a while, and if I can make it look good enough (with my limited woodworking skills;) then I might move on to other doors.
When you want to display the warehouse door that has a lot of benefits, ease of use, the display is beautiful as well as provide the power that remained in the long periods of time. If you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now.
So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries.
You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to.


Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door. This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it. Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track. I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies.
The backside: Due to the fact the door is so light, we added felt to the 2x4 at the bottom so it wouldn't damage the trim. Sliding Barn Door Hardwere has rollers that are useful to place the wheel bearings door open or currently in the lid. They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware!
It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails.
The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place. Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle. This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them. The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us.


Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes. We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater.
Your door looks fantastic, even with the oopses ;) I'm glad it all worked out for you guys! If that doesn’t work, we are thinking about drilling a small hole (but big enough to slide it with a couple fingers).
Tell J that I wish some of his handy helperness would rub off on my J that is NOT into handy helperness! Sliding Barn Door Hardwere has a traditional look, but with slide styles in use make these doors also provide a modern look.
That bit's not quite finished yet, though, so believe me when I say I'm probably WAY more excited to see this than you guys are.
Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. You can also add display door by providing a window on the top of the door, thus giving the benefit as an exchange of air inside the warehouse. I was planning on trying to rig something up myself with random metal pipes and bars, because the prices I was seeing were just way to high.
We have this opening between our bedroom and “sink nook” that I really want to add a sliding door to, and now I can thanks!



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