Making shelves from scaffold boards wickes,8 bar pvc towel rack plans metal,wood patio plans free 2014 - How to DIY

05.04.2016
More progress this weekend.The decking was finished yesterday (Saturday), and we started on the walls that will define the equipment room and the finishing room. Another update for weekend's work ended March 7, 2010.On Saturday, we got the balance of the wall top plates installed, plus the headers for the doorways. Update:We've got most of the walls in place - east and west walls atop the loft, and the big walls that run from floor to ceiling through the balance of the space. For the last 6 or so years, I've rented a space near my home to house my considerable collection of tools and sawdust.
I am not happy about leaving my current location, and would not if it weren't for the economics involved. Investors here believe they must get a 10% per annum return for ten years so if they buy a property for more than it is actually worth ( and most are turning over for prices far in excess of their true value) they are forced to ask insane rents. Unfortunately, there's a lot of crap conduit and a electric meter on the back wall which we must work around.Here are some of the materials yet to be utilized. This being supported by the fact that the government has formed a new water billing company (the first steps towards privatization are always splitting off various departments to make quango companies) . As a result there are a lot of empty warehouses etc in Brisbane .My personal view is that you are in business to make money for yourself,not the land lord.
In the distance were the old lights which have been removed."Empty" space as viewed from the Northeast corner.
As it turns out, some shifting occurred as we were heaving the joists into place over the equipment room. My original plan for the walls that have to reach nearly 16' at the edge of the loft down to 14' at the front of the building was to "scab" 2 sections of 2x4 together with a block.
This water billing company has already been on the news here twice in the last couple of days for overcharging water bills. Being that it is a space to feed my need to turn good wood into useless sawdust while hopefully releasing something of use out of what doesn't become dust, paying $ every month whether or not I actually use the space would be highly irritating if I had a testy landlord. There is a row of shelves adjacent to the right-hand wall in the rear of the space that were abandoned by the previous tenant. They sit on the rear wall, and are attached to the rear rim joist, but hang in joist hangars at the front. The walls don't have to support any load except the sheeting, so I figured this was the way to go.
My own bill jumped from a high 400 liter usage to 1400 liter PER DAY according to this water billing company.
With the upswing in my hobby of 6.9's, there were literally months in the last year where the only reason I went to the shop is to drop off the rent money.
I've though about moving a little further out and buying a property where I can build my own workshop. Some rents are so high the adverts state " POA " meaning they are too embarrassed to state what they need to keep their heads above water. I thought they would be great for storage of parts and misc items up in the loft, until we tried to take the shelves apart.
To get everything to line up properly, we had to remove the first two joists over the equipment room, as they were slightly long (better than slightly short!).
Unfortunately, this was a slow and tedious process, as each stud had to be cut individually to a different length and toenail'd into place.
It was 1 #6 red wire, 1 #6 white wire taped black at the ends, and 1 #8 white wire for the neutral.
Obviously this wouldn't work for a woodshop, so I solved the problem by building a floor into the space. My landlord is less than impressed and is accusing me of water wastage and insists I pay the bill or move out.
Right now, we're running the lights with an extension cord to a plug wired into the circuits until we get the rest of the walls constructed. By the time we figured out the cause, we were too beat to trim and reinstall the joists.Sunday found us reinstalling the two joists, finishing the blocking over the equipment room and adding some bracing to the walls to prevent structural shift (and possible collapse) before we get the walls sheathed. It took nearly a full day to do the east wall, and this is the result:We've still got to come back and put some bracing from the studs across to the purlin of the building for added rigidity. This had several advantages - mainly allowing me to run electrics for equipment under the floor, and keeping my back and knees happy by not standing on a hard concrete slab for hours on end. We also removed a lot of conduit that was left behind from the previous tenant, deactivating and obsoleting several circuits at the breaker panel in the process.To make this and other upcoming work, we also built a 10' tall x 4' wide x 6' long rolling scaffold.
Plus they were cheap-o quality - way to wide and deep and way too thin to hold any measurable weight."Empty" space as viewed from the Southeast corner.
One pair will be ganged together to create a pair of doors for the entrance to the finishing room.
It looks like poop, but as we put the sheathing in place, we can correct any out-of-plumb units.On the next weekend, we started on the west wall. Initially, I had plans to store an old '66 Cadillac which I was restoring in the space, and 5,000# cars and elevated wood floors generally don't mix. This kind of stuff is available for rent, but for the cost of one week's rental, we have one we can use for future projects. The scaffold we built is visible in this picture, and you can see some of the lights are up, but not yet wired in. The other two are for the closets that are in the finishing room that house the dust collector, vacuum and compressor, plus storage.Today, we finished most of the walls for the equipment and finishing rooms.


I solved this problem by building solid blocking into the framework, right up to the bottom of the plywood decking. I was still facing the need to increase the lighting in the existing space, as my nearly half-century-old eyes struggle more and more to work properly in less-than-daylight conditions. It can be disassembled for storage, when required.We've also replaced the bottom section of the overhead door, which was in a sorry state, plus all of the rollers and a few hinges.
In the distance, Tin is hard at work fixing the overhead door.Here you can see the floor structure is mostly complete and the piping for the dust collection system is installed. We've still got some top plates to install, and the sill plates have to be removed where the doors to the closets and the entry to the finishing room are.The equipment room is about 12' x 16' and is mainly to house the planer, drum sander, drill press and router station.
It is said that a 40-something person needs roughly twice the light of a 30-year old to maintain the same visual acuity.
It's not a room as much as an alcove, as there's no door, but "alcove" seems a pretentious term for a workshop.The finishing room is adjacent to the equipment room and will be about 12' x 12' with two closets at the back each about 4' deep and 6' wide.
Actually, when you count up all the 2' long braces we had to cut for the east wall, there's only actually about 2 more 2x4's in the west wall. The door was so far out of alignment that one of the hinges rubbed on the track to the point where the swaging that holds the pivot pin in place was ground away, allowing the pin to partially dislodge, further exacerbating the alignment problem.
We've still got to build the header for the doorway.As noted, the closets will house the noisy equipment - dust collection, vacuum and compressor.
Headroom at the front of the loft is a bit tight at just under 6', but at the rear, it's nearly 7' to the bottom of the roof beams.In this picture, you can see into the shop adjacent to our space.
A very fair trade for a much quicker and more sturdy result which looks like this:We built the bottom in 8' sections first standing each up as we finished it. The sub panel was Square D, a brand I do like, but none of the connectors on top were tight. Next weekend, we'll start the construction of the walls that will frame in our space and seal it off from the neighbors.Here's a view down into the shop space from the loft.
Once all is said and done, I'll probably pay out $500 just for fixtures and bulbs.The floor alone is going to run about $1,000, and I expect the balance of the structure to cost an additional $1,000 - $1,500.
From his perspective, the door could be opened and closed and somewhat secured in a closed position.
We then used shims and bolts to attach the upper plate to the carrying beam that runs front-to-back in the building.
The fact that you needed to be a power lifter to open it, and a mountain climber weighing at least 200# to close it was of no consequence. At the back of the space, adjacent to the blue pipe is where the shelves were that we had to remove - and where the wall stood as well.
Next weekend we'll build the support beam to span the opening for the equipment room and set the ceiling joists in place. One of the disadvantages of using 24" spacing between the studs is that even when you add diagonal bracing, there's still enough give to allow the structure to rack. We came back and added some 2x4 braces that attach to the purlin that runs about 8' feet off the ground, which allowed us to make sure the wall was completely plumb.We've started running the electrical, which is expensive and time consuming. This will allow a larger, more usable loft at the back, which is essentially the roof of the finishing room. My net savings in rent totals $2,400 for the 2 years, plus $800 for the 2 free months I'm getting for committing to a 2-year lease = $3,200. We'll have to build a new wood structure to support the standing-seam metal wall that was there.
There's a lot of weight sitting atop the walls with all those 2x12's, and even more with the decking. Being that this installation is in a metal building, we have to use shielded wire, (called BX or armor-clad wiring here in the states). The wider space will allow a 6.9 or similarly sized car to be pulled in and all 4 doors opened without the need to squeeze by on any side or end. Adding the time value of money since the recoup of costs doesn't come all at once, but over the course of 2 years, and the deal is even more expensive.The unaccountable costs for doing what I'm doing make up the difference. The truck that was making the delivery was a large flat-bed affair with an attached "spider" forklift. Attaching the beam at the left-hand corner to the purlin and the right rear of the structure to the purlin in the adjacent building (through the sheeting) provided some stability, but it was still pretty wobbly.
It's a pain to use, as the corrugation of the cover makes it the devil to string through holes in the studs, and it doesn't like to make sharp turns. Finally being able to have a shop where I don't have to move tools around to work on projects. We're going to completely frame out and enclose the space on all sides.This view shows some of the car path installed. Once we got the decking down, that took out one moment of potential motion, twist in the horizontal plane.
I also plan to run dust collection under the floor, where in the previous space it was above and exposed.
2x12's with solid 2x6 blocking at the front and back of each section to transfer the vehicle load directly down to the concrete below.
The lack of front wall space makes adding any cross bracing impractical and ineffective, so we still have issues with some side-to-side wiggling.I wanted to put a few sheets of sheathing on the walls to stiffen the structure up, but we've still got wiring to do, and I don't want to start that effort until we're ready to do it from start-to-finish. The approach to the property involves a very steep driveway that crests very abruptly - not a good combination for a long-wheelbase dual-tandem axle truck.


Hopefully, next weekend, we'll get all of the walls built and raised to define the space, at which time we'll be ready to finish the electrical so we can put the sheathing up.W. We've already made one return trip for an additional 15, and I think we still need about 10 more.The wiring for all of the 220v (standard line voltage here in the US is 110v 60hz) equipment I ran in conduit, partly because we had a bunch of spare conduit and extra 12ga stranded wire, but also to allow easy upgrading of those circuits, should the need arise. It will be nice to not have all the piping exposed - fewer horizontal surfaces in a dusty environment like a woodshop is a very good thing.I'm also going to have additonal space for a proper bead-blasting booth, and the finishing room can serve double-duty for my powder-coating setup.
Worse, there are obstacles in the form of adjacent buildings and a fence at the edge of the property, less than 30 feet from the street.
The truck needed to be up in the parking lot where the materials could be safely offloaded.
I was able to heat my previous space with a "salamander" heater that runs on Kerosene, but that puppy is loud, and Kerosene is $6+ per gallon now. The first attempt up the drive came to naught - as the front axle came across and past the crest of the drive, that caused the rear axle to lift off the ground, and all forward motion stopped. The driver reversed back out on to the street a bit and in the driver equivalent of the proverbial BFH, poured on a LOT more power to start up the slope. However, we divided our efforts, with me working on getting the conduit installed for the 220v circuits while he prepped the boxes and ran the BX. I've got a line on a nearly new HVAC unit which was installed in a friend's house down on the shore which was heavily damaged by Hurricane Ike. What commenced was a mechanical ballet where he moved forward and backwards and slowly backed and twisted the load through the gate - very impressive.We started laying the floor structure out on Monday the 15th. As a result, I've got a lot of checking to do to make sure I've not forgotten something, like how to get power to a particular circuit. I took Thursday and Friday off last week, and we finally got the structure complete to accept decking, which is now about 33% complete. I'd originally planned to attach the stairs directly to the edge of the loft, but the best location for the stairs was at the extreme east edge of the shop, and I really wanted to put the bandsaw right below where the stairs would attach.
This wouldn't work, and the simplest solution was to add a 4' x 4' landing above the saw and attach the stairs to that. When I started on the drawings, I figured the east edge of the landing would be attached to the east wall, and I'd just cantilever the west edge of the landing out from the joists that support the loft. These paths are 12" wide and are made of 2x12's with solid blocking to transfer the load of the vehicle directly to the concrete slab without adding load to the floor structure. Then the "oops" moment when I realized the beam that spans the open space for the equipment room makes it impossible to cantilever any support out for the west edge of the landing.
I definitely didn't want a post at the corner of the landing - this would be in the way of the saw. Add to this an additional 112 2x6 blocks that the 2x12's sit on, each of which was scribed and cut individually to make sure the 2x12 top sits flush with the surrounding floor structure. We also installed the ducting for the dust collection system, as well as piping for the vacuum. Here's a picture of it installed:We ganged together 3 2x4's for the stud that it's attached to, alternating the pieces to create a strong beam. The stud has sole and top plates with bolts through the plates and into the ends of the studs.
Try as I might, I couldn't figure out a way to route the pipes without this single right-angle run down the length of the shop. The plates are screwed to the sole and cap plates, eliminating the need to toenail the stud like the others, and the inherent risk of that type of attachment.
I've got a drill and the required bits that are up to the task, it's the drill operator that's ill-equipped. The bit has a threaded spur on the front, and once started, basically pulls itself through the wood - until the spur peeks out on the exit side - then the pulling stops.
Everything in this new shop is hidden in the walls, ceiling and floors - fewer horizontal surfaces means fewer places for dust to settle which means an easier-to-clean and therefore cleaner shop.Hopefully this weekend will see the end of the wiring task, all remaining bracing installed and the front wall of the loft constructed.
The bit rarely breaks through cleanly, which results in a lot of splinters, many of which only get severed at one point around the hole and promptly snap back into place after the bit passes by, thereby blocking the hole for the bit to be pulled back through. As the weather warms up here, we're quickly realizing that we are going to have to do something about the insulation (or lack thereof) on the roof.
Since we're "mid span" in the building, we don't have any exposure to the east or the west, only to the north. However, even with a mild 75deg F sunny day, my bald head can feel the IR coming off the roof more that 15' above. I was planning on insulating the side walls, but dismissed the idea as both expensive and unnecessary for a non-living space.
The additional advantage of relocating is now we have everything organized where it can be used as needed without having to stack and restack material. We do plan on adding HVAC to it, both for comfort and also for the badly needed dehumidification that air-conditioning brings. We plan on leaving the thermostat at 90+ when we're not there just to see if that's enough to ward off the moisture without breaking the bank.
When there's no insulation on the roof, any leaks that develop are easily tracked and repaired.



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