Rockler dresser plans,desk plans pdf download,garden bench design ideas 4 homes,free wooden puzzle plans delhi - Videos Download

29.10.2014
As you can see it was missing its original carved wood handles, thus leaving three holes to fill behind where each had been. Once it was distressed, I went over it with a light stain, just to finish the exposed wood parts. So while it is not necessarily what I had in mind at first, sometimes those flaws (like the holes) that you have to work around force you to think a little more creatively! You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. This classic American Shaker-Style dresser is modernized with some skillful techniques and attractive flared maple. Ever since Rob Johnstone’s Shaker End Tables graced the cover of the August 2010 issue of Woodworker's Journal, I’ve had figured maple “on the brain.” If you’ve worked with it before, you know what a treat it is when the finish goes on and the wood’s shimmery chatoyance lights up before your eyes.
Big dresser drawers like these can get heavy when loaded with clothes, so I employed a couple of strategies to fortify them for long life and easy daily use.
To make accurate side panel dadoes, use a slotted router jig, rub collar, and a straight bit. The dresser’s skeleton consists of a pair of dadoed side panels that support five web frames.
The five web frames won’t benefit from a face frame to help true up their front stretchers, so be sure to surface your rails and stretchers (pieces 2 and 3) dead flat.
Since I planned to use flame maple for the drawer faces, I made my five front web frame stretchers from flame maple as well, instead of the plain maple I used for the rear stretchers and rails.
Using mortise and tenon joints will increase the strength between the web frame stretchers and rails, so employing a hollow-chisel mortiser will make short work of this step. I settled on mortise and tenon joinery to attach the frame parts — these stout connections will prevent the frames from racking and ensure nice, square carcass corners.
Nailing down down the frame with short brads during the frame glue-up saves the need for extended clamping and is easy to remove when necessary.
You could assemble the five web frames and then nibble their front corners to fit around the stopped side panel dadoes, but I notched the stretchers first at the table saw.
Keep your slotted router jig close at hand so you can use it to cut out dadoes on the stretchers and frames. Next, I reached for my slotted routing jig again to plow dadoes across the inside faces of the four top stretchers; they hold the vertical drawer divider square and lock it in place.
Wrap up the web frames with one final step: select one as the topmost frame, and outfit it with pilot holes for screwing the dresser’s top panel in place later. To fit the drawer dividers into the web frame, make some small cuts on the front corner of the boards. You’re nearly ready to turn some loose parts into a carcass, but not before making the drawer divider.
Fix the web frames to the side panel dadoes with a small amount of glue, drive brads diagonally across the joints, and then clamp some scrap MDF braces to hold the frames square.
Start assembling the carcass by gluing and screwing the drawer divider between the two top web frames to form a subassembly. To carry out the glue-up, I laid one side panel on the bench, set the drawer divider assembly in place in its dry dadoes and stacked the web frames on edge so I could install them one by one. Use a miter saw to cut out the base sides to fit the joints perfectly, before marking and cutting out the shape of the feet. The dresser’s base consists of a front and two sides (pieces 8 and 9) joined at the corners by miters.


Assemble this miter clamping jig to pull the base joints together, along with a square back-up block, pin nails, and C-Clamps.
Glue and clamp the three base pieces together; a miter clamping jig, square backup block and a few long pin nails will ensure tight-fitting connections. When the glue and cleats have been set, start routing the cove profiles on the upper edges of the base with your router table. The dresser carcass rests on three long cleats (pieces 11 and 12) glued and screwed inside the base. Screw the base into the carcass through the base cleats, then add blocks to reinforce the back feet of the piece.
A last reinforcing step is to add triangular support blocks (pieces 13) behind the rear feet. To make cutting the dovetails easier, the author used a Leigh D4R Pro Jig to cut the tails on the drawers. You can cut the sockets all the way across the tail pieces, as they will hide the drawer bottom grooves. Flip over the finger templates on the jig and it will be set to cut out the sockets and pins for the drawer faces without having to change out your equipment.
I used Leigh’s new D4R Pro Jig to cut variable-spaced dovetail patterns to connect the faces to the sides.
While you want thick drawer bottoms, the fit will be tight, so rabbet them on three sides to fit the grooves and use featherboards to ensure the proper thickness. The drawers are pretty standard, but there's not much room for error so make sure they are absolutely square before you start nailing them down.
Assemble the drawers in the usual way, but check your drawers very carefully for square during the clamping process — there is so little clear space inside this dresser, given the nature of these inset drawers, that square boxes are absolutely critical.
Test the drawers in each opening to get a proper fit for the shims, and then install the drawer slides, our author used Accuride slides for this project. As I mentioned, shims (pieces 30 and 31) were my solution to “floating” the drawers evenly in their openings.
When each drawer fit nicely, I sliced the shim strips into shorter segments to tuck behind the drawer faces and longer ones for the rear stretchers. Finish sanding off and rounding out the top panel before attaching it to the rest of the carcass and the dresser is complete. Matching the two different colorations of maple provides a challenge, but our author figured out a three step process to get them to blend nicely. My challenge was to match the darker reddish quilted-maple top with the rest of the blonde flame maple. I really would have loved to refinish this piece as it would have been gorgeous, but I would have had to find the right pulls. I allowed that to dry over night and then gave it two coats of a satin rub on poly, just to finish it up. Start the construction process by gluing up two blanks for these two big panels (pieces 1), making sure they’re flat and square. It’s also important to match the web frame stock thickness carefully to the dado width on the side panels; you want a good friction fit of the frames in their dadoes to help strengthen the carcass. The front two stretchers on this pair of frames have stopped dadoes, just like the side panels.
It’s a two-piece assembly of a vertically oriented front edge (piece 4) joined by a tongue and groove to a longer horizontal rear member (piece 5).


While that glue dried, I made several long braces from MDF and outfitted them with dadoes that matched the dado placement on the side panels.
Starting with the bottom web frame, I spread glue along only the first six inches of the dado (this allows the side panels to expand to the rear without cracking the panel or breaking a longer glue joint).
Each was fitted into its dadoes in the MDF braces and rested in a 6" bead of glue in the side-panel dadoes.
I installed mine at this point when I unclamped the braces to help square things while the glue joints set.
Cut overly long stock for these three parts, and miter the corners to refine the fit of these joints. Give the carcass and base a good sanding up through the grits to 180, and fasten the two components together with 1-1?2" screws driven into countersunk holes in the cleats.
I installed these flush with the back edges of the web frame stretcher, using a combination of pocket and countersunk screws driven into the feet and down through the stretcher.
The finishing solution came in three parts: I polished the raw wood with 320-grit sandpaper to clarify the figure, then I applied Zinsser’s amber shellac thinned 25% with alcohol to help tone the two color variations. So, after almost a year’s wait, Rob agreed to let me give figured maple another “go” on this Shaker-inspired dresser: quilted maple on top and flame maple for carcass, drawers and base. Clamped in place, these would hold my web frames vertically as well as square and parallel to one another as I assembled the big case.
I clamped the frame to two braces and pinned it to the side panel with several 1-1?2" brads.
The difference here, was that I drove shorter 1" brads at a steep angle through the bottom edges of the web frames to pin them to the side panel. Once they’re airtight, cut the extra length off of the sides and create a template for marking the curved cutouts that form the foot shapes. After attaching the hardware to the drawers, I removed the dresser’s back panel and laid pairs of long shims across each opening.
With the shims fixed, the slide hardware could be pulled apart and the carcass portion screwed down to the shims.
This way, the top panel can move seasonally toward the rear but still show a consistent overhang in front year-round. But even if you build your dresser from plain-figured stock, make your divider’s “show edge” from edge-grain stock and not end grain. Accuride outfits the slides with elongated holes that made it easy to tweak them left or right to give the drawers even side-to-side reveals in their openings. I got to work filling holes with the last bit of my favorite filler, Wunderfil from Rockler, and then gave the piece  thorough sanding all over. Notch the top and bottom front corners of the divider to fit into the stretchers’ stopped dadoes. As you install each frame, make sure the front edge lines up flush with the front of the side panel.



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