Router table dovetail jig plans free,table de snack haute,toy box 2.0 ipad cheats - New On 2016

06.08.2014
To learn more, read Jeffrey Fleisher's Tool Review on the Leigh RTJ400 Router Table Dovetail Jig. NOTE:The RTJ400 jig is NOT compatible with the Bosch RA1181 Router Table, because you cannot mount a universal style template guide into the table. The template guide mounting hole in your router table should accept a template guide that looks like this.
There is a small error in on the Half Blind Dovetail RTJ400 Quick Reference Instruction Strip included with first generation RTJ400 Router Table Dovetail Jigs. We get some unique mail here at Fine Woodworking, like carvings, miniatures, wood samples, and I once even got a block plane. Wanna Build It?If you're interested in building a rig like this, be sure to check back in the coming weeks for a link to the plans.
Router Glides on SlidesOne pair of slides lets the router move toward and away from the workpiece. Precise ControlThere is a rule and cursor so that you can control the exact length of a mortise and get repeatable results. The PDF of the Plans which includes the drawings and detailed instruction, parts list and sources is done! OTW writes: I have finsihed the Buillding Instructions (text) and am working with Dave Richards to complete the illustrations. It has taken much more time and effort to put all of this together than it did to build it. We are almost done with the plans with the help of a most venerable SketchUP guru and contributor to blogs.
That concern, plus what others have mentioned about dust in the ball bearing (that will eventually gum them up terribly) makes this machine a non-starter in my book.
It's better to stick with a stationary mounted router and 'slide' the workpiece across a fixed table (IMHO).
I think that a set of plans with construction details and an operating manual would answer a lot of your questions.
Your dovetail jig can do more than you think - it can also be used as a dado-cutting guide. When I needed to cut dadoes for a bookshelf I was building recently, I hit upon the idea that my dovetail jig might serve double-duty as a dado-cutting guide.
This single-clamp system, which takes up to a 13"-wide board, works much better than trying to align a straight edge with two clamps.
The Porter Cable 4212 Dovetail Jig is the middle of Porter-Cable’s 4200-series of jigs, and we think it’s the best of the range for most users.
There are plenty of dovetail jigs on the market, and it’s not always easy to choose the best one for your needs. To help make your decision a little easier, in this Porter Cable 4212 Dovetail Jig Review we’ll take a look at some of the features that can make the difference between a jig that’s OK, and one that makes cutting dovetail joints easy and, more importantly, easy to do well. The tightness of your dovetail joint is controlled by adjusting the depth of the router bit and the Porter Cable 4212’s patented router bit depth gauges allows you to quickly and accurately set the depth without taking measurements.
In addition the Porter Cable 4212 has patented alignment lines and on-board instructions which provide clear guidance and mean you won’t have to hunt for the instructions when setting up for the most common cuts. The whole design is all about ease of use and being able to get on with cutting the joints without needing anything more than the jig itself. Not all jigs come with everything you need to get started and the last thing you want to do after you unbox your brand new dovetail jig is to go hunting for equipment that should have been included (or even worse, have to buy it separately).
The Porter Cable 4212 sits between the 4210 and the 4216 in Porter Cable’s deluxe 4200 series, in both pricing and capabilities. But for the majority of woodworkers the best all-round bet is the Porter Cable 4212 giving the best combination of price and options (and you can always buy the template for miniature joints later if you need it).
We check prices regularly for this dovetail jig and by far the best price has always been at Amazon. We think we’ve covered pretty much everything in this Porter Cable 4212 Dovetail Jig Review, but if you still want to read more reviews, the best place for reviews from people who actually use the product is Amazon.
To use this jig you will need a tablesaw, stackable dado set, and a calipers with dial or digital readout. For reasons of design and proportion, you typically make the individual "fingers" in box joints as wide as the thickness of the workpieces. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website.
Dovetails are one of the most popular and often made joints in woodworking, and this sled is designed to make cutting them as simple as possible. If you like the look of hand-cut dovetails, but don’t have time (or patience) for all the meticulous work it takes to create them, then try this table saw method which uses a sliding dovetail sled to cut 90 percent of each joint. With care and a bit of practice, you can produce large or medium sized, “furniture grade” 8° dovetails in both hard and soft woods. You can make the dovetail sled from either MDF or a high quality plywood, such as Baltic birch.
Figure 1: Once you've had the triangular braces cut at 45°, attach them to the inside piece of the pin fence, then glue them up to the baseplate.
Figure 2: Nail down the 8° wedge ramp to the base of the sled, but don't put any nails into the middle section where the saw blade will pass through. Figure 3: Attach braces to the tail fence to keep it perpendicular to the base, then set the glue-up to cure overnight. Butt the tail fence (piece 5) up to the inside of the ramps and fasten it in place, using three more triangular braces to keep it perpendicular to the base, as shown in Figure 3.


Figure 4: Attach the miter bar to the bottom of the jig with with short washerhead, to help guide the sled. To guide the jig, I fastened an adjustable miter bar (piece 6) to the underside of the jig’s base with short washerhead screws, as shown in Figure 4. Figure 5: To create the locations for your dovetails, make four registration slots in the jig's fence, glue in some blocks to cover the blade exit and protect your hands. With a regular, not thin-kerf, blade fitted, start the saw and carefully “cut in” a registration slot on the pin fence as shown in Figure 5 on the following page. Figure 6: These markings are exaggerated for display, but mark out the narrow sides of the pins on the outside face of the boards and the waste areas (Xs here). To use the jig, start by marking out the width and spacing of the dovetail pins on the outside-facing side of all your project’s pin boards (label the outside face, to help you orient the board for cutting later). Figure 7: Using your sled, begin by making the right side cuts on each pin of the dovetails.
Figure 8: To remove the waste from the sides of your dovetail pins, make multiple passes with your sled over the table saw.
When all the righthand cuts are done, move the jig to the saw’s left-hand slot and repeat the process, this time cutting on the waste side of the left-hand edge of each pin. Figure 9: Use your pin board and a square to mark the placement and depth at which you will cut your dovetail tails. Once pin boards are cut, use the pins themselves to transfer the dovetail layout to the inside face of each corresponding tail board (Figure 9). Figure 10: Spin the jig around to cut the dovetail tails, using the ramps to make the left and right hand cuts. Now flip the jig around front to back and use the tail-cutting ramps to saw out the tails (Figure 10).
Step 11: Using a narrow bandsaw blade, cut away the waste between the tails, setting the fence away at a proper distance.
Rather than chopping out the waste between tails by hand, it’s quicker and neater to saw the waste out using a band saw (or scrollsaw).
I'd like to get the plans for this jig if they are available and the adjustable guide bar for the miter slot.
For those that are looking for plans, look at the beginning of the article where it says, Dovetail Sled's Diagram and Materials List, click here to download the PDF. While walking my 7 month old one day, we wandered into the library and happened to make our way to the woodworking section (his idea, I swear). I prefer using the router table, swapping out router bits is much easier then saw blades for me, I just recently purchased the. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. MLCS now sells the less-expensive Fast Joint system that you can use with a router table to make similar fancy-looking joints. Fit the male and female templates in the Fast Joint jig, install the correct bushing in your router table, chuck the bit into your router, and lock the work piece into the jig. Then just start routing. The router base is left attached to a homemade aluminum insert that rides in a plywood carriage. But the most interesting thing I've gotten in the mail has to be the horizontal router table sent to me by a reader from South Carolina. Matthias Wandel has plans for his version of a horizontal slot mortiser, which by the way, I just completed. I've cut long sliding dovetails and other sorts of edge detail of long stock (well not all that long, but longer than the rail travel of this machine). I just turn the dovetail template around so the backside becomes a straightedge for the router base.
For long boards, I support the back of the workpiece to keep it from racking and distorting the elevated jig. In practice it’s very intuitive to use and switching between templates, joints, and different-size boards is quick and easy. These days, quality and features are always improving and so they all do the job, but the best make it easy to do it well.
If there’s one thing that can wreck an afternoon in the workshop, it’s having to chuck a few expensive pieces of wood into the scrap bin because your jig let them slip in the middle of a cut. They all share the same steel base but come with different templates for different dovetail joints. In practice this dovetail jig is so solidly made that you’re unlikely to ever have a problem. At the moment they include free shipping and from what we can tell when comparing prices with other online merchants, Amazon do currently have the best deal, especially with the free shipping option. Before you cut the actual box joints, keep in mind that the width of your box sides must be an increment of the finger width. Before you cut the front and back, cut one notch into a scrap piece, just as you cut the first notch into the side piece earlier. Straight & Dovetail router bit set gives you the best quality cutters to make perfect box and dovetail joints.
The jig cuts dovetails far faster than you can cut them by hand, and you can size the pins and tails and customize their spacing to suit just about any project — join drawer sides, build a box or small chest, etc. However, I think the jig is best for quickly cutting workmanlike joints that are serviceable for jobs like joining parts for tool chests and totes, drawers for kitchen or shop cabinets, and so on. Glue each pair together to form the wide ramps (pieces 4) that will support the tail boards at an 8° angle.


Center the bar and use a large try square or framing square to set it dead square to the base’s long edges. Move the bar to the other miter slot and cut in the second slot, then flip the sled around and cut in both registration slots on the tail fence side.
Hold the stock firmly against the left-hand pin fence, with the pin board’s inside face against the fence. After you finish the first piece, flip the jig over to use the complementary template and lock in the mating work piece.
Once I square the workpiece to the straightedge, the dovetail jig's upper clamp holds it securely. It’s a fantastic combination of price, options and ease of use – what more could you ask for? You also get 2 carbide-tipped bits and 2 template guide bushes so you’ve got everything you need to be up and running.
We've found a dial calipers essential because box joints must be cut with exacting accuracy. For thicker or thinner stock you adjust the size of the jig's pin and the width and height of the dado cut accordingly. If the fingers are too wide, say .255" in our example, tap the end of the jig closest to the blade with a hammer as shown above. Otherwise, you'll wind up with less-than-pleasing partial fingers at the bottom of your box. Position this notch over the pin as shown at left, and butt the top edge of the front piece against the scrap before making a cut. As shown, this jig is capable of handling stock up to about 12" wide (you can build a jig to handle larger work: simply increase all dimensions proportionally to build a bigger jig — just keep all the angles the same). Glue and nail two triangular braces (pieces 3), cut at 45°, to the inside face of each pin fence, then attach them to the baseplate, as shown in Figure 1. Glue and nail each ramp flush with the long edge of the base, as shown in Figure 2 (don’t drive nails in the area around the middle section of the ramps, where the table saw blade passes during use). Set the finished sled’s bar into one of your table saw’s miter slots and adjust the bar so it’s free of side play, yet slides smoothly.
To make the jig safer to use, glue square 2x4 exit blocks (pieces 7) to the base at the back of each slot, directly over the saw kerfs you just cut. Figure 6 shows the angle of the pins in red for illustration; no need to mark pin angles on your boards, since those are set by the fence angles. Use the left- and right-hand ramps to cut along the right- and left-hand tail marks just as you did with the pins, moving the jig from one miter slot to the other as necessary. If your jig is registered, Leigh will send you a replacement Quick Reference Instruction Strip.
We've run articles on horizontal router tables in the past, but this one is a bit different.
I learned enough about what I liked and disliked in the first one that I now have a second one. For each box you make, you cut the sides consecutively, and the front and back consecutively. Make the remaining cuts in the front piece by removing the scrap, placing the notch over the pin, and proceeding as described earlier.
To keep the jig from sliding beyond the point where the saw blade passes through the exit blocks, clamp a stop block into both of the saw’s miter slots. Now cut on the waste side of each mark that delineates the right-hand edge of the pin (Figure 7). Hold the outside face of each tailboard against the fence and make sure to cut on the waste side of each line.
Between the height of the base board, the height of the ramps, and then the height of the cuts needed in the actual stock, I didn't have enough blade height to cut the actual dove tails. Any minor error in the width or spacing of the individual "fingers," even .001", multiplies itself with every finger you cut.
With the pin aligned, temporarily clamp the jig to the miter gauge, then affix the gauge to the jig with screws. As with all of our Infinity router bits, we only design and manufacture the cleanest cutting, longest lasting router bits in the business. Use a square to draw a line across the end of each pin board to indicate pin depth — just a thin hair deeper than the thickness of the tailboards. For all of the following cuts, hold the top edge of the workpiece toward the jig pin for the first cut. Now, put hand pressure on the jig to hold its miter-gauge bar firmly against the right side of the tablesaw channel. To get a sense of how the table works check out this quick (and rough) video of me using it back in the shop.
During this and the following steps, apply pressure to the miter gauge to hold its bar firmly against the right side of the slot. Place the just-cut notch over the jib pin and repeat to cut fingers along the full width of the workpiece.



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