Woodshop end table plans ana,how to build a garden bench youtube downloader,plans for 8 x 8 storage shed - Review

10.10.2014
Rough-cut your pieces to approximate size so you can joint and plane them all with the same machine settings. Finally, add a groove in the side top rails to accept the metal clips that will hold the tabletop in place.
Once you’re satisfied that your mortise-and-tenon joints fit, sand all parts up through the grits from 120 to 220.
There are three web frames to build-one to support the lower drawer, one to support the upper drawer, and the third to act as a stop, preventing the upper drawer from tipping down as you pull it out. Before bringing the web frame parts together, set up and cut a groove in all upper frame pieces to accept metal tabletop clips.
As you assemble each frame, take the time to ensure it’s square- successful drawer fit depends on it.
Glue and trim the top to size, sand it completely, including the edges and at least the first inch of the perimeter of the underside. Remove the drawer hardware, then sand down the drawer fronts through the various grits to 220.
I finished the table with two coats of Minwax Early American stain, followed by five light coats of wipe-on satin poly. You can cut the top shoulders of the lower rails and kickplate as well, but leave the top edges of the top rails for now. Sanding your project parts before assembly is much easier than if you wait until after they have been joined, screwed and glued; with an assembled project, you have corners and cross-grain to contend with. The tenon-and-mortise surfaces should all be coated with glue, but panels must be allowed to float in their grooves glue-free. They need to be sanded through all the same grits as the rest of the project for even staining and colour.


The top frame should be flush with the top of the cabinet, and the lower piece should fit behind the kickplate.
Set the top upside down on your bench, centre the table upside down on it, then position your tabletop clips. When the drawers slide to your satisfaction, rub paste wax on the runners, guides and drawer bottoms for even smoother travel. Many knobs and drawer pulls come with 1″-long bolts for use on drawers with separate faces.
To keep the drawers from sliding too far into the cabinet, glue small stop blocks to the back rails. Before you put the sandpaper away for good, check all surfaces for clamp marks or other blemishes caused during handling and assembly. I rubbed down the project lightly between coats with #0000 steel wool, wiping afterward with a tack cloth. File and sand a small bevel on the bottom edges of the legs to prevent splintering if the table is dragged across the floor. After each frame is assembled, use a portable belt sander to smooth over any raised edges or protruding biscuits.
I used hand-cut, half-blind dovetails to attach the sides to the fronts, with the backs and bottoms held in dado slots. This way, when the drawer is assembled, the bottom won’t peek out at the corner-the tail will cover it. Be sure not to get wax on any surfaces that will be finished, though-it will affect the finish. If not, you will need to mark it with a square (remember 50 degrees is off square, so that means the angle off the board edge would be 40 degrees.


When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Find the best final size for the panels later, by dry-fitting them after you’ve completed the frame assembly. Regardless of the mortising method you choose, it’s important to test your machine set-ups with scrap before moving on to your chosen lumber.
Mark the screw hole locations and predrill, but be careful not to bore right through the top. Turn them in or out until the drawer faces sit perfectly flush with the surrounding face frame. I always do a final hand-sanding with 220-grit paper, just to be sure everything looks its best. Note that the kickplate stands alone in its mortise and doesn’t sit in a panel groove. Take some time with this, as an out-of-square drawer won’t slide well and it will look crooked on the face of the cabinet.
I usually clamp a shopmade wooden square into each corner before finally tightening the clamps to make sure the drawers are true. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion.



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