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05.01.2014
A?35.000 bids21 watchingShaker Style pale cream wardrobe with pine handles and two drawers. A?358.80Buy it nowYou may have to make tour opening to suit, (1680mm wide x 2260mm high) or instead select doors from our made to measure range. A?331.20Buy it nowYou may have to make tour opening to suit, (1680mm wide x 2260mm high) or instead select doors from our made to measure range.
A?303.60Buy it nowYou may have to make tour opening to suit, (1680mm wide x 2260mm high) or instead select doors from our made to measure range. A?675.00Buy it nowor Best OfferAntique Vintage furniture Wimbledon is delighted to offer for auction this stunning antique Victorian French grand hallway cloak cupboard or bedroom wardrobe armoire. My recent saw sharpening video where I demonstrated the Veritas Saw File Holder has generated a lot of emails with questions about saw tooth geometry. I find that once I have a saw set, I don’t need to reset it until I have sharpened the saw at least once more. I believe there should be as few barriers to entry to this fine craft as possible and with this instruction I hope to cut through analysis paralysis and get the students building as much as possible. If a member needs additional help I am only an email, Skype call, or Google Hangout away from one on one audio or video instruction! I really look forward to seeing all of the great benches that are in the works right now completed.
Below you can find a list of portfolios from top wood carvers.Click on the links to open the page in a new window. You Tube has come to define the era of online video, filled with lots of great content for all us woodworkers. Wood Shop Projects Here's a great You Tube video by Jim Halbert of jimswoodworkingshop .
That's the day I sat down to write my first blog post, not knowing if anyone would ever be interested in reading it.
While I was vacationing near my hometown in Ohio in August, I received a phone call from a long-time family friend, Dave Corwin, from Delaware, Ohio. Dave also commented that he really thought the simple resaw pivot block for the band saw was a great idea.
We sell a whole selection of German wardrobes in our high street store, please feel free to come along and view .
Internally finished in a traditional stain, open throughout with single hanging rail to the top.
I take this as a good sign that lots of people are actually thinking about sharpening their own saws.
Like any sharpening related topic there are many, many opinions and solid justification for each of those opinions.
I think that really only rake, fleam, and set are the primary elements and pitch a secondary element. By adding fleam you turn the teeth into little knives that slice the grain instead of chop it like a chisel.
When we set the teeth we are bending them away from the saw plate to widen the kerf and allow the saw to run without binding.


They all relate to one another and should be considered as a whole to create the best tooth geometry for the task at hand. If I want it to start easily yet still cut fast I will increase the fleam a bit to make the teeth slice more (like skewing a hand plane).
The reality is that set is measured in thousandths of an inch and most of us don’t have the capacity to even measure this. Don’t over analyze it but rather relish in our ability to be able to finely tune our hand saws. The router plane does help and although the hard maple is…well hard, it does make for a very smooth finish. He said he really enjoyed the article and was especially tickled and surprised when I told him I wrote it. Not only that but the introduction of filing guides like the Veritas and the Rakemaker II by Blackburn Toolworks (a great site to check our for more info on this subject) have people thinking in detail about what tooth geometry is best for their work.
Usually any sharpening discussion is to be entered at your own risk and histrionics should be expected with much wailing and beating of the breast. Pitch, the number of points per inch or PPI, plays a role in determining how deep your gullets are and therefore how efficiently the saw carries saw dust away from the kerf. This is very useful as you can compensate, augment, or offset the positive and negative effects of one element by tweaking another.
Professional saw filers have much more accurate setting techniques and a heck of a lot of muscle memory to aid them. So while set is a little more touchy feely than rake and fleam, remember that it is also part of the geometry that effect how the saw cuts. For the average hobbyist, pitch a number in the middle of the above ranges and you will do just fine. When I married, our first home was across the street from Dave’s, so we became friends as well as neighbors. These little guides open up a level of filing accuracy only previously attempted by saw filing experts. So here is my sidestepping disclaimer: the numbers I detail below are but one option within the mellifluous multiverse of saw tooth geometry. This in turn relates to the speed and the cleanliness of the cut but not nearly as much as the rake and fleam can effect these outcomes.
One can actually lean the tooth forward to create a positive rake and a very aggressive cut, but also one that is hard to push and start while leaving the undercut tooth a bit weaker.
The wider the kerf the more wood you remove and therefore the more work required to push the saw. I can also reduce the set to create a cleaner cut since a more uniform tooth line won’t present as jagged an edge to the wood. Now that you know what changing these numbers will do you can tweak them one way or another to create a saw that performs well in a specific situation or over a wider range of applications. As such I think we can set pitch aside for this discussion since it will be rare that we are actually changing this pitch unless you are making a saw from scratch or restoring a really really beat up and well used saw. You will find a positive rake on some Japanese saws but the pulling motion and much harder steel adds in some variables that ameliorate the negative effects of positive rake.


As such high fleam saws should be used in softer woods that won’t push back so much on the more fragile teeth. Likewise the wider the kerf the sloppier the action as the saw plate can now wiggle about in the wider kerf and throw off a precise cut.
There were three of us woodworkers on the block, so we could often be found in each other’s shop on any given day sipping a cup of coffee and telling a story or two. The more you relax the rake, or increase the angle the tooth slants away from the cut the easier the saw is to push.
The converse to this is a saw tooth with little to no fleam will leave a rougher cut and require more effort to move through the wood. The beauty is that by altering all 3 of these in concert can produce the perfect experience.
Though if I’m being honest usually the adjustments I make in set entail reducing the amount rather than increasing it.
Once you solve one of these geometry equations you will find yourself getting more saws and tuning them to specific tasks.
The slicing action that is inherent with fleam is what makes a well tuned crosscut saw do its job without splintering and tearing across the grain. My recommendation is to set this adjustment to a pitch that is finer than the actual pitch of the saw you are working on.
Careful this is a slippery slope and soon you will be talking about witchcraft like sloping gullets and progressive rake and fleam.
These are my humble opinions won through hours of sawing with a fair dose of standing on the backs of giants like Herman, Harrell, Wenzloff, and Smith. This makes starting the cut easier but also it slows down the cut as the teeth have a tendency to lift up and away from the cut. If the kerf gets tight not only will the saw bind, but it can deflect in the kerf as it tries to find a way around the build up dust, thus making your saw not run true. A low rake angle cuts fast but can feel grabbier and also make take more experience to handle.
More set can be added and set can be removed but I find it easier to add more than take it away. Often times the setting process is helpful in adjusting a saw that isn’t running true too so the best thing is to skew to the finer set and then make several test cuts altering the set to get the right feel.
With each test cut make sure you saw enough to let friction heat up the saw plate causing it to expand.
You may think you have it right only to find the saw plate expands in the middle of a cut and starts to bind.



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