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Stance: I face the work with my shoulders square to the work piece, so that both arms can move as one.
Keep the cut line high: By keeping the cut line about chest high, the arms are less inclined to do the hard work, and thereby less likely to push the cut astray. Mount the board in a vise in the manner that enables the same stance from both sides of the cut. Hold the saw loosely enough to allow the kerf to guide the saw, not your arms guiding the saw. The rest is a matter of careful assembly, lots of gluing and clamping, lots of planing, a bit of drilling and fitting. The work holding capability is better than I aimed for, and the fit and finish is a big step above the previous version. Nuts for the front vise screws are mortised in very snugly, and then epoxied to prevent any wiggle. Work holding - This one is hard to hold well, but this works, a good test for moderate sized 'in the round' carvings. Work holding - typical joinery cutting - 22 inches between vise screws gives lots of capability. Here, I note a few differences in both materials and technique, and yet another kind of work holding.
Instead of veneer press screws, I substituted Joel Moskowitz’s excellent bench screws. My I-beams are solid wood, some sort of splintery pine from the on-hand lumber pile, instead of plywood. Two bevel gauges, one an ancient Stanley #25 (from Sandy Moss I think), the other shop made from a hacksaw blade and a rivet.
The little carving chisels were for carving the fiddleheads on the ends of the boat’s stems. The only other shaping tools I use are a Stanley Surform and a half-round cabinet maker’s rasp.
The shop temperature is near the minimum for West System epoxy, so I let it cure a full 24 hours before moving on to thickness planing. Woodworking Industry Report Woodworking information at woodweb, Woodweb provides information for the wood industry including woodworking, cabinets, components, woodworking software, wood finishing, cabinet hardware, lumber. Woodworking Drill Bits Review Drill bit – wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, Drill bits are cutting tools used to create cylindrical holes, almost always of circular cross-section.
For one of those boats, I made a frame saw and resawed a LOT of cedar into very long planks. I spread my feet about a shoulder’s width distance apart, but position them in a line with the cut.
Not keeping this stance on both sides of the cut was the biggest cause of my problems for a long time. Keeping the cut high almost forces using the legs, and when done this way the arms can be kept even and the saw centered on the kerf more easily. The easiest answer is to stop as soon as you detect the bowing and go saw from the other end of the board. The 044 plow plane was good at removing waste, but only after the groove sides were cut ahead.
For that work, I certainly need a BOB and the Steve Branam’s version recently caught my attention.

I used semi-beautiful construction lumber, with the most attractive knots oriented to the bottom side of the bench top.
Those ripped edges become the top and bottom surfaces, and I deferred planing them until the top was completely together. The very nice thing about these screws is that the handles can be repositioned once tightened.
I attached it to the beams before planing the top surface … once again deferring the work that requires a bandanna. It is probably more useful for cabinet makers than for boat building, but is a gorgeous tool nonetheless. However, I do trust and have done business with each of these folks: Jon Zimmer, Patrick Leach, Sandy Moss, Walt Q, and Bob Kaune. The big frame saw was cut down from an antique Disston D-8 rip saw, and made roughly to Josh Clark’s design. Before I built my frame saw and bow saw, I used a Rigid 14 inch band saw to cut the inner stems and to resaw a few strips of cedar for the laminated bulkheads.
Switching back and forth frequently eliminates irregularities before they become bothersome.
As an aside, unlike the boat lumber that I did with a frame saw, I’m cutting this lumber with a common rip saw.
I’m right handed, and place the left foot forward, with the toe exactly in line with the cut. A couple of quick swipes on each side of the saw after every few direction changes keeps the saw smoothly gliding along.
We build great workbenches at low heights that are comfortable for planing, but not a lot of other work, then build Bench On Bench accessories to raise the work surface. This avoids the problem of having the handle sticking up in the way of putting chisels to the workpiece. The 12 foot length is comfortable for the size of the shop and is suitable for planing boat lumber up to 16 feet long (with some lumber shuffling of course). They were surprisingly inexpensive (less that $30 for the set of 4), and surprisingly good. Most are silicon brass and are known to fracture easily if not fed into the right size hole. Since those cuts, and after making the new hand saws, the only use I’ve had for the band saw is quickly cutting waste wood down to disposable size.
Then, they are clamped on the apron in the correct relationship and their edges jointed together. Pull the spring loaded handle out from the screw and rotate it to a more convenient position. The bench dogs, full width planing stop on the end, and the bench hook are all shop made accessories.
In my view, knowing all you can know about a tool, including how to refurbish it, is only an incremental step beyond sharpening. Resawing is so valuable for boat lumber; getting two (or more) boards for the price of one is wonderful. Liberty Tools is a real neat place, but you have to go there; no mail or Internet ordering.
It is lighter than the frame saw and has a broader blade that (one hopes) helps keep it moving straight.

Sawing for the length of an Oscar Peterson album, a Travis Tritt album, or a Beethoven piano concerto is about right. Fitting something like this is when one learns to really appreciate how well Michel Auriou’s rasps perform  (the one on the right, not the rat tail). Anticipating work of two general sizes, I incorporated two of these stops in the bench top.
While in Maine, I roamed the antique tool stores and found dozens of these for prices in the $70-$80 range. The quick set up on the apron makes it easy to release and flip the boards up onto the bench for test fitting, and then set back up for fine tuning. Then, when you move to the other side, the saw will take the path of least resistance, through that inaccurate kerf.
Even though the specific type is unknown, it was straight, free of knots and a joy to work.
I am careful in what I buy and where I buy it in order to make the most of what I refurbish.
The bow saw is a delightful, lightweight, highly maneuverable saw made from plans found at Gramercy Tools. The big ole heavy #7 is rank set for a moderate cut; reasonably good material removal with no tearout.
Using the legs to rock back and forth is far less tiring than just the arms alone, and leads to better accuracy. Now, it’s much easier to change directions frequently, as frequently as 25-30 saw strokes at a time.
The front vise itself grew to be a bit floppy, the result of installing the vise screw nuts loosely in softwood sockets. I can’t justify the tooling cost for making just one of those wooden screws, and for what it costs to buy one ready made, I can buy a couple of top of the line carving gouges. I eventually found this one from Jon, and don’t regret paying him more for finding a better tool than I could find by wandering around. In fact, when properly lined up, one could pin their elbows to their side and let the legs do all the work.
Holding the saw loosely also makes it easier to feel friction increasing, to know about an oncoming bowed path before it’s too late. Since you can’t see inside the board, the only external awareness you have about this happening is increased friction.
I’ll keep the full width front vise and the excellent screws with adjustable handles. The only one complaining is the FedEx delivery guy who carries the 62 pound packages up our steep driveway. The primary thing holding the bottom of the boat together is these edge to edge glue joints.
It is a grip that is very balanced, one that prevents favoring one side over the other and keeps the blade nicely centered in the kerf. Lastly, the excellent Gramercy holdfasts were rarely useful due to the smaller size of most of my work pieces.

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