Woodworking magazine table saw reviews diy,hammock hanging bed,baby furniture payment plans rutgers,indian woodwork designs for living room den - PDF Review

21.05.2015
I recently received an e-mail from reader Joe Polich seeking help to identify an old table saw he acquired.
I had few clues to give Joe except to look for information on the Old Woodworking Machines web site and forum. I’m hoping you can help me identify an antique cabinet saw my son found in Chicago and was sure I’d really appreciate it. There are no manufacturer identification marks on it, but I’m sure it was commercially made.
I ran it using the blades that came with it, but they’re pretty dull so I pulled the carbide blade off my circular saw and it cuts great; an amazingly smooth cut. The cabinet has 4 drawers, one on the back and 3 on the operator end and there are draw bolts through the ends and sides. There’s an old Ream water heater booklet in one of the drawers that dates to 1947 which is the only date reference I can find.
Steve Shanesy is the former publisher (and former editor and senior editor) of Popular Woodworking Magazine.
I suggest you see if you can determine the manufacture date of the motor using the model # and Serial #. I have a friend, Rich Hopkins, who is the founder of the American Typecast Fellowship and is internationally known, world authority in the area of movable type. The saw that’s shown is not something which was made commercially, for I have never seen anything like it in the many shops I have visited over the years.
Looks like a printers saw – used to cut and trim letterpress furniture ( the wood blocks used to fill in the extra space around type thats being set ) and also to trim cuts and engravings for printing. I own a printshop have been printing since 1954 and I have never seen a wooden cabinet saw in a printshop.
I have received a number of comments that indicate this saw was used in the print industry back with lead type was used on flat platen presses.
Also, if you look closely at the table top, you can see round marks from what I’m guessing are ink cans.
I’ve sent the info to several print industry museums and hope to hear from them soon. I hope someone can identify it, my guess would be a vintage altendorf, as they were known to make wooden table saws of good accuracy. Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years. The first jig crosscuts small parts without putting your fingers in harm’s way or sending little offcuts flying back into your face. Note: Except for the thin-rip jig, these jigs rely on an initial cut to define a zero-clearance edge. While it is possible to rip thin stock using only the tablesaw’s fence, you have to remove the guard and squeeze your stock and push stick through the dangerously narrow gap between the blade and your fence.
Unlike typical crosscut sleds, this jig sits entirely to the blade’s right side with a single fence at its leading edge. To use, just position your sheet stock so your cut mark lines up with the zero-clearance edge on the sled and clamp. Plenty of  commercial tapering jigs are available, but none makes the job as simple or as safe as mine does. American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014. I came up with a cabinet that fits in the underutilized space below my saw’s extension table.


Full-extension drawer slides are a must to access the drawer’s contents (see Sources, below). New shroud designs under the table and above the table (the blade guard) have improved dust collection on the yet-to-be-released SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw. Information is just beginning to trickle out about the blade guard design and the fact that it increases the overall dust collection on the saw by four additional percentage points. Glen Huey is a former managing editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine, a period furniture maker and author of numerous woodworking books, videos and magazine articles.
Before reading the message and looking at the photos, I was thinking it was likely a saw from the 1940s,  plus or minus ten years.
I already tried offering him a couple hundred bucks to haul the old piece of junk away, but he wasn’t buying, errr, selling it.
If you like looking at old woodworking iron, check out my six-part video series about the restoration of a Delta Unisaw from the early 1940s.
The motor is at the back and is an old Westinghouse motor with a cast case instead of a stamped steel case.
Following his retirement, he is now a contributing editor, blogging about what he's doing in his own shop. You will find numerous variations of this saw used to cut and trim up the type for printing page layout.
Its design is almost identical to a lead saw, used to trim lead spacers used the same way, but obviously larger and with a greater depth of cut.
Chris Schwarz has a functioning one for his PW blog, so I assume it’s available for your blog. Because blade kerfs vary slightly, it’s important to select and use the same blade each time you use the jig.
That’s because the finish piece is the offcut, rather than the piece pushed between the fence and the blade. The width of your stock is not limited by the distance between the front and back fence on a typical crosscut sled. That’s because my tapering jig uses the miter slot rather than the saw fence as a guide. Please upgrade to a different browser or install Google Chrome Frame to better experience this site. Cut a series of blade-shaped slots in a clamped-on 2×6 by slowly raising the blade until it just breaks through the top. First, the company developed and integrated a safety system to keep woodworkers from being maimed by a spinning saw blade. According to the company, dust collection on the newest member of the SawStop fleet is 99 percent.
In laymen’s terms, engineers found a way to transform the normally turbulent air surrounding the saw blade into laminar air that travels like a jet stream. He paid $100 for it at an auction for a printing company going out of business and cost him more for the shipping. Whenever I view a series of pictures you’ve posted (or even one), I’m taken to a second page with a small picture, that I have to click on the small picture to open a viewer frame with (finally), the large picture.
Sheets of wood the correct thickness would have to be cut perfectly square to keep the type perfectly aligned. Push the sled slowly into the blade and your small part will slide safely down the ramp away from the spinning blade.
Holes cut in the sled’s trailing edge are handholds for pulling the sled back after a cut.


Once it is attached, you can adjust the slide’s fit by turning the bolts through a hole in the top of the sled. The problem is finding a convenient, central place to put them that’s out of the way yet accessible. The full-extension slides and stepped sides allow you to see and grab what you need without digging through stuff.
Now the group at SawStop has tackled the second most crucial safety issue of table saws , sawdust.
In other words, SawStop molded the blade guard and manipulated the lower dust shroud to move the air , and the corresponding wood dust , directly toward and into a hose connection in rear of the blade guard (shown above). I also speculated that it may have originally been set up to be run on a line shaft and belt. The wood furniture (fillers) we use is very precision except for length so it would be crosscut also.If it was mine it would be in my great room, for how long I dont know probably bout as long as my 47 inch wood plane. They take advantage of the tablesaw’s speed and accuracy without tempting you to perform risky operations.
Best of all, there is simply no chance for kickback and the guard can stay on the saw where it belongs. A well-adjusted slide will glide smoothly without play, increasing the performance and accuracy of the sled.
Adjustable shelves on the side hold the rip fence, extra miter gauge and whatever else you can pile on them. Mount it as low as possible to avoid interfering with the operation of the blade-tilt handwheel. Because the blade arbor is also fixed, you adjust the blade height by raising the user end of the table by loosening wing nuts on each side and turning a crank on the front of the cabinet. The switch plugs into one side of the duplex and a power cord, ungrounded of course, plugs into the other outlet.
The cabinet has is all oak, with a door to access the inner workings and a drawer to catch the shavings. Then, after closing the big picture, I have to page back to the original article to click on the next picture.
All four jigs make use of the factory-milled miter slots found on contractor and cabinet saws. For thicker stock, make the initial cut, flip the stock end for end after the first cut, align the saw kerf with the zero-clearance edge, set the fence and finish the cut. The overall design is flexible and open-ended, so you can add extra holders and pegs wherever you need them.
So, I’m trying to view 7 pictures in this blog article, and I just have to give up and move on. If you have a lot of stock to rip from several boards, it pays to rip all the boards to the same width first. I made this cabinet to fit my tablesaw, but it can easily be modified to fit most other brands. Someone put a fair amount of thought into it, but it is limited in what it can do, especially on the width of rip – about 8”. That’s why I think it was used in cabinet shops for making face frames or rails and stiles for doors.



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