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20.01.2015
I'll show my SketchUp procedure for making detail connections of a breadboard to a table top. This is the exploded view of the design followed by a top down X-ray orthographic with dimensions. Step 2: With the Tape Measure tool place guidepoints or guidelines at locations for the tenon extensions of the joint.
Step 3: Copy the completed joinery on the right side of the top, and move the copy to the left end. Step 4: Connect a blank breadboard component (no joinery, just a plank) to the end of the table top. Step 5: You could create the groove and mortises in the breadboard blank separately from its connection to the top, but this requires careful measurements and placement of many guidelines.
Killenwood writes: WouldWorker, yes you are right that the end mortises in the breadboard are wider than the tenons in top.
WouldWorker writes: Oops, forgot that's the purpose of elongating the peg holes in the tenons. Learn the art and science of designing furniture in SketchUp with Fine Woodworking's official blog.
Since I want the table top centered on top of the base, I'll draw it there from the beginning.
I also added a guideline to the right of the table parallel to one of the first guidelines. Woodworking Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for professional and amateur woodworkers. The author of the article simply screws the cross rails (blue) to the top (yellow), but for a solid top this is not ideal. How can I attach these rails to the table top in a way that allows the wood to shrink and expand with changes in humidity? This slot will allow wood movement of your solid top while staying securely attached on your cross rails. The wood in your top will expand and contract in one direction, while the cross braces will expand and contract perpendicular to that.
You create a shallow depression with a forstner bit or similar on the rail top, such that the figure eight fastener can rotate a bit when screwed down (not extremely tight, but not loose either.) These allow expansion in two directions if done correctly.
Given that the wood expands in different directions, I feel the figure 8 fasteners are the best option. Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged joinery furniture wood-movement tabletop or ask your own question. While in hiding, why did they have to apparate on the top step of Grimmauld Place entrance (and not directly inside)?
Real computers have only a finite number of states, so what is the relevance of Turing machines to real computers?
Built with common materials and knockdown hardware, this table is inexpensive and easy to make. To build drawers for this table, I used basic box-drawer construction with an applied drawer head. Picture #6 shows you the beginning of an oak drawer head that I will apply to the front of the box drawer.


Once I have both box drawers built, I put them in the table so that I can determine where to locate the drawer glides (runners). This design, while using tenon pegs,  allows for seasonal movement of wood which is a main consideration for breadboards.
After choosing Edit Component (for the breadboard), using the Line tool trace over the tongue location on the edge face of the breadboard. I can see and feel the change in dimension on the ends of the breadboard depending on what time of year it is. The results of intersection here are very much related to the flush position of the breadboard flat against the edge of the top piece. The Intersect operation won't modify the breadboard component unless the component is open for editing.
I maintain anesthesia and respiratory equipment for the largest medical facility in southeast Minnesota. In the image above you can see the handle I used to rescale the circle creating the ellipse. To do that I drew a vertical surface and drew the thumbnail on it creating a profile for Follow Me. I corrected the face orientation as needed and deleted the face on the inside of the donut. I arbitrarily chose the method I did but as with many things in SketchUp, there's often more than on way to do it. In the article, the author uses a plywood top, but I already have solid lumber that I'd like to use. I believe I could even replicate those bits with a narrow straight bit and either a wider straight bit, or a V-groove bit.
As soon as I have joined an apron and leg using wood glue, I put three finishing nails (on the inside, out of sight) through the tenon and the leg to reinforce the joint. I have removed the clamps and placed the understructure on the bottom side of the table top as you can see in Picture #4. They will stay level because of the strips (see Picture #5) that I have already glued and screwed to the table top.
Of course, the table is still upside down, but you can see that the drawers do not tilt, and they operate smoothly (you will just have to take my word for that). I can tell that the differential movement is taking place, and is working properly to avoid splitting the top. Although I couldn't show it in the screen shot, I held Ctrl (Option on Mac) to invoke Scale About Center so that the top would remain centered on the base. Of course adding the profile to the edge of the extrusion would have resulted in the table top being larger than it was supposed to be. We're looking at the underside of the table (where the screws are) and the inside of the support rail. Accessory trays mounted on the sides provide plenty of storage space for drafting materials. Picture #1 shows you where I put the nails.In Picture #2, notice that the side apron is smaller than the back apron.
I have centered it lengthwise and, because I am going to build drawers for worktable storage, I have a 4" overhang on the drawer side.


I like to put my router in a vise so that I can rout the drawer head on top of it rather than run the router around the drawer head. The reason for the cove is that the back apron on the table is not as wide as the front apron, so I don't want the back of the glide to stick out at the back of the drawer.
While there are several plugins that will draw ellipses, it isn't difficult to do with SketchUp's native tools which is what I'll demonstrate here. Round and elliptical table tops are a couple of cases in which I choose a larger number of sides than the default 24. Then I selected the edge of the ellipse, got the Follow Me tool and clicked on the profile. I could have compensated for that when drawing the ellipse to begin with but that would have required doing a little math. The solid pieces of the clip go into a grove in the rail, allowing them to slide with expansion. I did this because this side apron is mounted on the crosspiece where the shorter table legs are located. Picture #5 shows you the screw strips that I have used to mount the understructure to the top. After I have done that, I will take the board over to the table saw and cut it to the exact width that I want. This is strictly a matter of choice - use whatever method you are most comfortable using.I rout the inside edges of the box drawer (Picture #10) using a cove bit.
At the back of the table, where the cove is located, I glued a horizontal block then screwed it to the apron, again using two screws.
I glued three wood strips to the table top and the adjoining aprons and then I screwed the strips to the top. All that remains for this part of making the drawer head is for me to plane the board (Picture #8) until I have it the thickness that I want.
I rout the outside on three sides only (Picture #11), leaving the face as is where I will mount the drawer head. Picture #15 shows Cody, my shop assistant, and me fitting the four drawer glides (two per drawer) in the proper position to facilitate the smooth operation of the drawers.
Since it was only drawn for appearance, I didn't attempt to copy a specific cutter profile. Notice that I did not mount a screw strip at the front of the table.Finally, the two strips of wood that you see lying on the table top from the drawer hole to the back apron will be mounted on center from each hole to keep the drawer from tilting when it is pulled open.
This will result in a round surface on the top of the drawer.Picture #12 shows you the completed box drawer and mounted drawer head. This picture gives you a good view of how much of the drawer will be exposed at the back of the table - that is, if you got down on the floor and looked at the back of the table.Picture #18 gives you a good view of the rear mountings of the door glides.
I glued and placed finishing nails in each joint, and then I placed the understucture in clamps to keep it square until all of the joints have set up. The top is attached via slotted pieces of walnut as to allow that monster top to move without killing the frame.



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