Woodworking taper jig youtube,building a wood box beam,making a desktop icon windows 8,diy exterior door awning - Reviews

24.01.2014
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With a simple indexed angle setting system, heavy duty hold-down clamps and a smooth sliding design, it makes tapered cuts fast, easy and more precise. Ideal for use with your table saw, but can also be used with a router table for routing tapered profiles such as flutes and bevels.
Jointing function lets you use the tapering jig to put a perfectly straight edge on rough-sawn boards.
If you want to set the taper jig the traditional way by lining up your scribe marks with the miter slot, you can easily override the incremental system. Memorylock system "remembers" up to two settings so you can switch easily without having to use the scale - great for common settings that you use often. Greg – great build and thank you for posting this – I have it marked as a favorite and need to make one soon! DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. Built out of hard maple and a hardboard template, the total cost for building this jig including all hardware was probably around $40.00. The nice thing about this jig, is that it can be precisely fine-tuned to cut exact box joints in just about any size. The other wing nut and red locking know are used to slide the entire bracket assembly right or left, which determines your spacing between fingers of the joint.
Where the dado blade passes through the jig, there is a replaceable insert held on with a flathead bolt and knob. On my first test cut with the jig on a box-joint corner, it only took one trial cut to determine my spacing was a little small.
This jig, from a more recent version of ShopNotes was created, just like the dovetail jig, to make the mortises in the legs of the Pine Server Table shown on this website. Made out of some scrap pine I had in the shop, a couple pieces of MDF for the tabletop and fence, and a few pieces of hardware, it went together pretty quick.
There are slots in the MDF table in the rear, behind the fence with threaded knobs so that the table can be adjusted back and forth to line up the mortise with the bit of the router.
When the handle is moved left or right in an arc, the table slides back and forth in a straight line.
If I was to build it again, I would create it with a much larger range of motion side to side. After using the hinged-style taper jig to taper the legs on the Pine Server Table and not feeling very comfortable or safe with it, I decided to make this style of tapering jig from plans in a ShopNotes article.
The holddown clamps are also used on my drill press table, and were part of a kit from Rockler which included the two holddowns, and a 48" T-track. I laid out a cutting diagram to get all the pieces cut out of a 2'x2' piece of the Birch (the rest was for the Armoire) and glued up the Hard Maple blanks for the clamp bar, the vertical support bar. Normonster6 writes: I have three of these on my wall, all made from oak and difficult to use. Eenmijay writes: Beyond tapering, it should work equally as well as a guide for ripping stock that does not have a straight edge to ride along the fence.


Cut 2-, 4-, even 8-sided tapered legs as well as tapers for table tops and cabinet parts with a single jig! Using a tablesaw to cut tapered legs isn't rocket science but some jigs make the job a lot harder than it needs to be. The 2nd photo above shows the drawer going together with the drawer front clamped into the top of the jig and the drawer side clamped to the front of the jig.
There are two flat metal angle brackets that can be adjusted in and out with one of the wing nuts on the end and a red locking knob on the back.
The wings nuts on the end are threaded onto a 10-24 rod, so precise adjustment is easy to obtain. This prevents chipout on the backside of the board, and can be easily replaced when cutting a different size of boxjoint. The MDF table has hardwood runners in the bottom of it, which slide in an aluminum channel running lengthwise, that is dadoed flush in the pine box. Also on the backside (out of view) of the MDF table are carriage bolts with knobs on the end. The router depth is adjusted with the large threaded rod, with the router carriage assembly sliding on aluminum rods.
In most cases, after plowing out line, I have to slide the piece and run another set to obtain the desired length of the mortise.
I built the jig when I was creating a set of Adirondack Chairs for a customer, to taper the front legs (these are the similiar to the Adirondack chairs detailed on this website. I had never used a tenoning jig but instead had always used a dado set and my miter gage with the wood laid on the table to cut the cheeks of the tenon. Since I have so many tenons to cut (around 75 for each Armoire!), I figured now was the time to do it.
A set of springs are used to push out the clamp block, making it easy to remove the piece to be cut. I am curious though as to what you have fabricated at the bottom of the clamp just above the surface of the plywood. If tapering a large piece it would be good to add a stationary table on the other side of the blade to support the cutoff. The Microdial adjustment system features index holes to ensure a positive angle stop before you lock in your setting with the knobs. I didn't want to buy an off-brand (the phrase you-get-what-you-pay-for rang clear on this one), so I found this plan and decided it was just what I was looking for.
Both the pins and the tails of one corner and routed out at once, as in a traditional half-blind only jig.
The template is attached with angle brackets, and can be adjusted in and out on the threaded rods and wing nuts.
It was also built from a plan in an old issue of ShopNotes that I receive in a monthly Time-Life book club on Custom Woodworking.
The heads of the carriage bolt are adjusted to act as a stop, which contact the tower when you reach the limit of the mortise. The router is then lowered incrementally, while moving the handle with each pass until the desired depth is reached.


I had taped the show and when I had to make these holes, I watched it again and built my version. Then all you have to do is draw a centerline on the piece to receive the holes and butt the fence against the piece, aligning the centerline of the jig with the centerline of the finished piece. This Oak bar has a very small nail sticking out of it, which is used for tapering multiple sides of a leg.
But it always bugged me that the resulting cut wasn't perfectly smooth, even though it was snug, and that it took more time to do. The idea of the jig is that you can cut both cheeks without having to remove the piece from the jig and flip it around. Looks like some sort of collar and I'm guessing it might have to do with keepint the clamp from scraping the top of the saw's table.
In addition, the tapering jig features the Memorylock system, which maintains two independent angle stops, and lets you easily toggle between the two. Trying to hold the blank against the jig and keep the jig against the fence while making the cut is too much of struggle.
I actually bought some UDMV material for the comb, but wanted to create it first with hardboard to make sure it was set up right.
The stop blocks on each end can also be adjusted from side to side to obtain the correct lineup of the dovetails. The large threaded rod will soon be replaced with a press screw, making it easier to adjust up or down. I would also like to lower the fence height, as frequently I have to place another piece of wood on the table so that the router bit can reach the depth without the carriage assembly bottoming out on the fence. The center point of the bottom of the leg is found, and this nail is placed at that location.
You set the wing nuts and stops on the threaded rod so that as the platform moves left and right, it hits against the stop, the platform is locked down with the knob and the cut is made.
Two separate scales let you set the jig either by degrees or by rise and run, and of course, you can also bypass the index holes, and set the jig by lining up your layout marks. In most cases, you want the dovetails centered on the drawer piece; these moveable stopblocks help line that up. The scale is adjusted so once you hit the zero mark on the ruler you're mortise is to the desired depth. I narrowed the dado in the tablesaw and cut centered dadoes into the hardboard, directly centered on the larger dadoes in the MDF. Next it was to the bandsaw to cut the outside of the handle and the quarter-circles in the braces. The tapering jig is designed to interface seamlessly with the optional Grr-Ripper GR100Y and GR-200 (62689, 30737 sold separately) for the ultimate in safety and versatility. The jig uses cams cut out of maple and eyebolts engaged in threaded inserts to snug up and then lock down the pieces being clamped in the jig.



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