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DP- R 23503598 Remanufactured block for Detroit Diesel engine 6-71 natural or turbo intercooled.
Important note: All original equipment manufacturers names, drawings, colors,photos and part numbers are used for identification purposes only, and we are in no way implying that any of our parts are original equipment parts. All our rebuilt engine blocks have been inspected, tested and machined to Detroit Diesel specifications and come with full warranty. Detroit Diesel A® and all of the Detroit Diesel engine models listed on this website are registered trademarks of Daimler Chrysler AG. Is there even one on those on those quads?i»?Joe Fazio: Hey Man, i have a 2000 Big Bear 400.
Remember search is your friend, it can be frustrating trying to find information in it, but most of it is there, buried somewhere, at the very least you should learn a little bit from the search and give you a leg up on asking intelligent questions when it comes time to make a post. So you just got a CRD, we need to do a little work on it to bring it to its true potential. Don't worry, most of this will only consume your Saturday if your willing to forgo sleeping in and get up and get to working on it. It looks like a split shot singer were you press 2 tabs together to hold the end of the choke cable but my ends broke so i have to get a new carb as i dont think they are replaceable.
This guide will not concentrate on the specifics of how to do each task, but rather what should be done and why(as in not the nuts and bolts of the procedure, sizes of wrenches, how to remove a filter etc). But a fair set of tools, a set of old garage clothes(probably ones that your WD(wife department, SO, GF BF BFF etc) made you stop wearing), and a little bit of brain power will get you a long way. If you don't have those things, well you better start finding a good shop nearby and get friendly with them. The symptoms can sneak up on you and leave you with a dangerously underpowered vehicle when you need it(such as trying to pass a Semi or merging with traffic). Napa is usually a pretty good bet and has what appears to be a rebranded WIX with a part number of FIL 3647 for about $30, you can usually find one in stock in your town.
Chances are the PO never cleaned it, and the service guys didn't even know it existed, so its full of gunk. I have had several friends purchase CRDs which had noticeably lower performance than mine, when we pulled the map we noticed it was just all caked over in gunk. Many solvents can be used to clean it but MAF(Mass Airflow Sensor) cleaner is probably one of the safer bets, and is available at many local FLAPS(Friendly Local Auto Parts Store). Oily mist coats the intake and gets all over the inside surface of the hoses, this causes the hoses to soften, and then split or rupture. Don't worry, if this does happen it won't kill the engine, or damage anything else, but you will be driving a vehicle with almost no power, and one that really can't be safely driven in traffic.
Basically you should be able to limp home with a bad hose, and then wait a week for a new one to arrive while your Jeep sits in the garage. You might want to do this outside with the garden hose as the WD(Wife department) will most likely be upset when she see's this being done in her kitchen.

The new OEM turbo side hose comes with a new oil resistant liner, the drivers side intake hose does not.
It's not a right away sort of thing, but it's a silent killer sort of thing, so you really need to check it at some point. Fifth wrote:Fifth, Lets change your oil!Personally I would recommend the Mobile One M1-301*. It is a good quality filter and only costs a few bucks more than its cheaper Fram equivalent, the PH8A.
This filter is larger than the one originally specified for the CRD, it is large in diameter, and is longer. If running a non-stock part bothers you then stick to the Mobile One, or other high quality filter specified for the CRD from your local FLAPS. Now I should caution that the CRD uses an aluminum oil pan, you can't just tighten down the drain plug as hard as you want to like on a steel pan. The drain plug SHOULD use a copper crush wash to seal the pan, which means you don't need to torque it down real tight. There is a good chance that someone in the past didn't know this, and that the drain plug is missing the crush washer, and even possibly that your drain plug threads may be somewhat stripped. First, always use a crush washer, its even a good idea to replace it each time, I got a set of copper crush washer from harbor freight very cheaply just for this purpose, there are enough washer there to last me for years.
Now lets say your threads are kinda questionable, or you just don't want to take any chances.
If your the preventative maintenance type of person I would also recommend a tranny flush and new filters.
This is just good measure but its not something you should do right away like the above items.
This is the main engine sensor, without it the ECU cannot correctly determine the injection event and the boost. With a stock CRD the combination of oil overfill, stock CCV, and EGR will leave this sensor coated with a sooty oily mess in about 8k miles.
When the sensor is dirty the CRD will experience decreased fuel economy, decreased power, increased turbo lag, worse drivability, hesitation etc. The sensor is also delicate and care needs to be taken when cleaning, the best solution is to do the modifications to cleanup the intake path.
After nearly 50k miles of the ORM my MAP stays clean, really only needing to be cleaning every 50k miles or so.The ORM(Off Road Modification) is where the MAF is unplugged, with the MAF unplugged the EGR ceases to function. You will see a cleaner intake, better driveability, and better fuel economy with the EGR disabled via the ORM. It has a small clear paper filter dropping out below it, has two small rubber pipes plugged on it and has a connector on it. The EHM(Elephant Hose Modification) is where the CCV(Crank Case Vent) is rerouted from the turbo intake and vents to atmosphere. If the hose is simply routed down next to the ground occasional mist and drops of oil can be seen coming from the hose.

98&t=22703 )A Provent is a name brand device that is a filter that will separate out the oily mist from the air, and then returns the crank case air to the turbo inlet. 98&t=22631 ) It will cause a CEL(Check Engine Light), but it is a good temporary fix until you can make a decision on a GDE tune, other tune, or SEGR, which diminish or negate EGR recirculation. As stated, soot in the intake of a diesel is BAD.Next, install an Elephant Hose (or Provent, see above) to stop oil mist flowing into your turbo and intake tract. It builds up, restricting the flow of air and affecting the MAP sensor reading, which is next.First is the combination of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Closed Crankcase Ventilation. This is nessesary for some people, particularly those who have spouse who drive the vehicle.Oil Overfill, do not overfill the oil, and do not fill it to the top of the dipstick line for MAX. Even at MAX the oil is really too high, the extra oil will then be blown out through the intake, coating the inside of the boost hoses and CAC.Replacement filter head, a new redesigned fuel filter head which is less prone to leaking and heater head failure was released by chrysler.
If you think you need to replace your fuel filter then you should consider replacing this at the same time. Some people constantly experienced problems, and others like myself have never had an issue. The problem arises in that the tank does not have a electric pump in it, meaning the that injection pump must suck(as if through a very long straw) all the fuel from the tank, through the lines, and through the filter(which a dirty filter can also cause problems here).
Since this system is under suction, and therefore a vacuum, instead of a little fuel leak that coats the filter with some grime, air gets sucked into and builds in the system until it replaces fuel being injected into your engine, and you loose power.The solution to this problem is to install an electric lift pump in the system. The CRD's put out so much torque that in the early days the Torque converter was prone to failure.
Various companies offer upgraded ECU tunes, and most recently TCM tunes that restore the jeep to what it used to be! These days there is even a newer, better OEM torque converter that can be purchase for about $250 new(Prices have now gone up since first posting, I believe it is around $350 now).
In addition to the new OEM unit Suncoast makes a quality upgraded unit for the CRD, this unit is more expensive that then new OEM replacement.
Should your converter fail there is a risk that it can also cause the transmission to fail. Leaving you replacing both a transmission and a torque converter, rather than just the cheaper torque converter. In addition if you are considering an ECU tune for improved performance and fuel economy you should consider a new torque converter as peace of mind.
Not to mention the many extra man hours to remove the intake to replace them(at least 5 hours total, and at $75 an hour for shop labor that adds up quick). Minimum to pay someone else to fix it including parts count on $1500, PLUS the normal costs of a timing belt!

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