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If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!Speed Queen has undergone several major design changes in the past few years.
Usually these are nichrome wire, surrounded in ceramic insulation, with a steel sheath around the ceramic. Inside the oven, the heating element is called a "bake" or "broil" element. Parts for the old (pre-1980) fluid drive machines are generally not available anymore, and they are no longer economical to repair, so they are no longer included in this manual. When ordering or buying parts, it is wise to bring with you the production number, found on the nameplate along with the model number. Might save you a trip. Even among the new style machines, there have already been two MAJOR design changes. Inside the tub, they went from the old-style agitator post and drive block (similar to those found on the old fluid drive machines) to a short-shaft air-bell agitator connection. Some surface units plug into a receptacle mounted under the cooktop, which makes them more easily removable for cleaning, but also more susceptible to burned connections.
After that, the pump was driven directly off the bottom end of the motor shaft; these are commonly referred to as "direct drive" machines. Slippage in the belt, allowed by the tensioner, permits a "pre-pump" action, allowing the basket to come slowly up to speed. The bottom of the transmission casing is connected to a brake. Then the bimetal cools (along with the elements) until the contacts close again. There are also fixed-temperature switches that vary the voltage going to the heating elements to maintain fixed, pre-set temperatures. During the agitate cycle, the brake engages and prevents the transmission casing (and thus the basket) from turning.
The steel sheath is semi-porous; cleaning solvents can penetrate the steel and damage the ceramic insulation or electrically short the element. The timer and most other switches can then be removed by opening the console and removing the switches' terminals and appropriate mounting screws or nuts. However, some switches on late model machines are different. If there is any carbon or other crusty residue left after that, just scrape it off as best you can. The exception to this is the solid, or "euro-style" surface units. The water displaces the oil and forces it out through the seal and into the clothes.If you want to keep the machine, the transmission must be replaced.
Knowing what's operating and what isn't, in conjunction with a wiring diagram, can point you towards the failed component. In a moment, we'll talk about the general steps to follow. This is a difficult and expensive repair, often costing more than 200 dollars just for parts. You may want to price out the job before you start and decide whether it might be more worthwhile to just replace the machine.


DO NOT TEST LIVE 220 VOLT CIRCUITS. Unless you are dealing with an obvious, simple repair like a burned element, isolating the problem in a 220 volt cooking circuit basically boils down to shutting off the power, testing each component for continuity, and looking for burned or chafed wires. Electric oven or cooktop repairs can be broken down into 3 categories:4-3 (a) ONE ELEMENT NOT HEATINGIn surface units, this is usually caused by a burned out element, terminal, or receptacle. Turn the breaker off or pull the fuse, and inspect the element, terminals and receptacle. Most receptacles are mounted to the cooktop by one or two screws. Some receptacles can be disassembled as shown in figure 4-D to inspect and replace the internal terminals. Usually the burned or melted area of terminals or elements will be visible, but test for continuity, even if it appears to be OK. If those are OK, the break is usually where the wire attaches to the element, inside the back wall of the oven. Turn the breaker off or pull the fuse, remove the screws holding the element into the oven, and pull the element away from the back wall a little. There is a little bit of extra wire in there to allow you to access it from the front, but do not pull out any more wire than you need to work on it. Sometimes the pump can get siezed up pretty good on the motor shaft and make the pump difficult to remove. If the wire is broken or burnt completely off the terminal, you may be able to fish the wire out of the hole with needlenose pliers, as long as the power is off. If there is a burn in the element, usually it will be visible, but test the element for continuity, even if it appears to be OK. Wiggle it just a little if you must.When you put the new pump back on the motor, make sure the belt goes around the pulley and straddles the rear pump mounting leg. Make sure the belt is positioned inside the idler, and slip the belt around the transmission pulley. Please read this entire section and determine which you have before trying to remove the agitator, or you may damage the machine, or even yourself!EARLY TWO-BELT "LONG-SHAFT" MACHINESThe early two-belt machines had an agitator post and drive block.
Keep in mind that if one leg of the circuit is out due to a house wiring problem, you might have 110 volts but not 220.
It also means you still have power, and you can still get zapped. If you're sure you have no power, we need to figure out if the problem is in the house wiring or inside the oven or cooktop. Next we need to test for power where it enters the oven. This can sometimes present a problem. If this is the case, turn the breaker off or pull the fuse, pull the oven or range away from the wall, pull the plug out of the wall, turn the breaker back on, and test the wall outlet as described in chapter 2. I have found it just as easy to take your belt off, slip it around the underside of the agitator and tug sharply upwards on the belt. Be careful when you do this, or the agitator may hit you in the face when it pops off!Figure SN-8: Agitator Removal and Drive BellOnce you've got the agitator off, you'll see the small plastic drive bell. It also traps air beneath it and keeps water away from the seal and out of the transmission. Then remove power again at the breaker or fuse. If power is not getting to the terminal block, the problem is in your house wiring.
During the 70's some houses were built with aluminum wiring, which is notorious for not being able to handle oven currents. It is critically important that this "O"-ring or plug be in good condition or water will get into the transmission and ruin it. Whenever you remove the drive bell screw, replace the "O"-ring or plug.Once you remove the mounting screw, the drive bell can be difficult to get off. The factory sells a special puller; however, since a new drive bell comes with the seal kit, I've found that it's cheaper and easier to chisel off the old drive bell. Find your wiring diagram, isolate the problem and repair as described in section 4-3(c). 4-3 (c) COMPONENT PROBLEMSOne fairly common failure with confusing symptoms occurs when an infinite switch or a fixed-temperature switch shorts internally to ground.


With a cold chisel, just cut two slots along the hub of the drive bell to loosen it from the splined shaft beneath. Be careful not to chisel anywhere near the screw threads, or you might damage them. Beneath the drive bell is a water seal. If this occurs, replace the defective switch. Let's say that you have power to the surface units but none to either the bake or broil element. The factory has a special tool to install it evenly, but if you're careful, you can do it by hand. The new seal kit comes with pretty thorough instructions.8-6 BASKET REMOVAL AND TUB WATER SEAL REPLACEMENTIf you are replacing the tub water seal, make sure you get the upper seal kit and replace it, too. The wiring diagram can be very complex and difficult to follow, but the general objective is to trace the malfunctioning circuit as described in section 2-5, find the components in it and check them for continuity.
Using a screwdriver, pop the tub ring clips holding the plastic tub ring to the top of the tub, slowly lifting up on the tub ring as you work your way around it.
Do not remove the hub nut.If you are replacing the tub water seal, you will need to remove the drive hub.
The hub is held onto the top of the transmission casing by either a hex nut or a spanner nut.
Note carefully the order and orientation in which things come off; there are some models out there with an parts that are slightly different than shown in Figure SN-9.
The problem is holding the transmission and getting a good grip on and turning the pulley at the same time; once the brake starts to release, the transmission will be free to turn. Then once you get the brake released, the problem becomes holding it in that position while you replace the brake pads.
The factory sells a tool for releasing the springs, but you can fashion one out of a coathanger, or simply remove one of the front springs and use the hook on it to remove the other springs. When you've got the springs off, disconnect the pressure hose from behind the tub. Rock the tub forward and out of the machine and flip the module upside down. (Note: DO NOT lubricate the pivot friction pads! Any lubrication on the friction pads will cause the machine to trip the out-of-balance switch too easily!) Disassembly of the module is pretty straightforward; see figure SN-10. However, there are one or two tips and tricks: Figure SN-10 Module AssemblyThe brake spring must be seated in the notch in the transmission casing. The factory makes a special tool for this; however, it is possible (but difficult) to get the spring on with a couple of flat-bladed screwdrivers. I say buy the tool if it's available. Coat all transmission surfaces that contact the upper and lower bearings with an anti-sieze compound. For example, in some earlier models, a needle bearing was used in place of the thick and thin washers. During the 70's some houses were built with aluminum wiring, which is notorious for not being able to handle oven currents.
The factory has a special tool to install it evenly, but if you're careful, you can do it by hand. When disassembling, Note carefully the order and orientation of the parts you remove (draw pictures or take notes if you must!) so you can get them back on the same way.?Copyright 2011 GOFAR Services, LLC.



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