If you are like me and does not bother to organize yourself too much, there are chances that you may have misplaced License Keys and Serial Numbers of the software and applications installed on your computer. LicenseCrawler is a small freeware utility, which can crawl your computer to find and recover license keys from the installed versions of your favorite applications and software. The LicenseCrawler can discover application product keys and other serial numbers or licenses very quickly and supports all versions of Windows operating system from Windows 95 over Windows 7 to Windows Server 2008 R2 (64Bit). And the best part is that it is a portable application that can be run from any location and would be a perfect fit for a USB stick.
In case you are concerned about using a third party software for such a sensitive use, then here is what the developer says.. Upgrade to a different browser or install Google Chrome Frame to better experience this site. And in case you want to re-install these software and applications, you might find a tough time searching your emails, your user documents, manuals and things like that to retrieve and find the license keys and serial number. It crawls your registry files and digs deep to find the license keys saving you lots of time and headache searching for these keys in your emails. Perfect for the support personnel, who may find a tough time asking their clients for the license keys and serial numbers. I am not so stupid to write bad software and show my address in the contact form for the police. The different designs are differentiated by being a different "model" or "series." Confusing the issue even more, some manufacturers "private label" their machines for large department stores. Such as Sears' Kenmore and Montgomery Ward's Signature machines. Check the following list to determine if you have one of these "cross-branded" machines. They are known in the parts houses as "Whirlpool belt-drive" models. In the early 80's, Whirlpool began manufacturing their "Design 2000" washers.
These machines were sold as GE, Hotpoint, and "private-labelled" as JC Penney and Penncrest brands. In 1995, GE started making a new "front access" washing machine. Unlike the old model, there is no rear access panel on these machines; all the machine internals are accessed through the front. WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands. Frankly, these washers were pretty poorly designed, displaying major oil and water leakage within five years. In the '90's, WCI was bought by Swedish giant Electrolux, who changed the company name back to the Frigidaire Home Products Company. The orbital machine, manufactured since the late '80's, is a "Newton" machine with a redesigned "orbital" transmission with only six moving parts. The "orbital" transmissions are interchangeable with the pre-1980's so-called "counterweight" transmissions. Unlike the counterweight machine, the gearing in the orbital transmission can be serviced without removing the transmission from the machine.1-2 BEFORE YOU STARTFind yourself a good appliance parts dealer. You can find them in the Yellow Pages under the following headings:APPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, MAJORAPPLIANCES, PARTS AND SUPPLIESREFRIGERATORS, DOMESTICAPPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, REPAIR AND SERVICECall a few of them and ask if they are a repair service, or if they sell parts, or both.
They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath, "guide" you to their service department.


They should contain the model number SOMEWHERE. If you have absolutely NO information about the washer anywhere, make sure you bring your old part to the parts store with you.
Sometimes they can match an old part by looks or by part number.1-3 TOOLS (Figure 1-2)The tools that you may need (depending on the diagnosis) are listed below. I am trying to install it into my new computer, but my daughter threw away the protective sleeve. Send to Email Address Your Name Your Email Address Cancel Post was not sent - check your email addresses! It can save you lots of time and hassle.1-4 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any washer that you're disassembling.
If you need to re-energize the washer to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 2) To work underneath the washer sometimes requires leaning the washer back against the wall at a 30- to 45-degree angle. Always have someone standing by to help you while you work beneath the washer, in case it comes down on you.Figure 1-7: Leaning the Washer Against the Wall 3) If the manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!!
There is a reason that it stopped--you can bet on it--and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will stop again. Replace the part. 4) If you must lay the washer over on its side, front or back, first make sure that you are not going to break anything off, such as a drain hose or fill valve.
And for goodness' sake, make sure you drain the thing completely first! 5) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component.
And NEVER EVER remove the third (ground) prong in the main power plug! 6) When opening the washer cabinet or console, remember that the sheet metal parts are have very sharp edges.
If you're not getting full power out of the outlet, you'll know it right away. 2) If you just can't get that agitator unstuck, your appliance parts dealer has a device called an Agi-Tamer for just such an occurrence.
It's basically a heavy-duty rubber balloon that fits under the agitator, and uses water pressure to lift it upwards from underneath. 3) If you need to drain the tub (usually because your pump isn't pumping out) most folks try to bail it out.
And what happens when that nice, week-old dirty wash water reaches your mouth? You guessed it: there's a better way. What's the point in sucking the water through the hose? Well, instead of using lung suction to do that, let's use hose pressure. Leave your garden hose connected to the faucet, and put the other end of it in the washer tub. The air is gone now, right? Kink the garden hose so you don't lose the water charge, and disconnect it from the faucet. When you're sure the faucet end of the hose is lower than the bottom of the washer tub, release the kink in the hose. No muss, no fuss.1-6 HOW TO USE A VOM AND AMMETERMany home handymen are very intimidated by electricity. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked.
Remember the rule in section 1-4 (1); while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair. You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter. In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM.


It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source.
For our purposes, it doesn't matter how fast the current is flowingTo use your VOM to test continuity, set the dial on (resistance) R x 1, or whatever the lowest setting is. It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" scale. If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero.
If the solenoid's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.
If there is still live power on the item you're testing for continuity, you will burn out your VOM instantly and possibly shock yourself. Touch the two test leads to the two bare wire ends or terminals of the solenoid.
You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact.
If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading. This is the resistance reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity.
If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one.
The ammeter simply measures the strength of this magnetic field, and thus the amount of current, flowing through the wire. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other components) and see if there's anycurrent flow.To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands. And for goodness' sake, make sure you drain the thing completely first! 5) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component. The air is gone now, right? Kink the garden hose so you don't lose the water charge, and disconnect it from the faucet. When you're sure the faucet end of the hose is lower than the bottom of the washer tub, release the kink in the hose. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. For our purposes, it doesn't matter how fast the current is flowingTo use your VOM to test continuity, set the dial on (resistance) R x 1, or whatever the lowest setting is. If the solenoid's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.



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