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15.07.2015
I read this story, quite animated, to my children ages 9 to 5, and all of them were enthralled and excited. Michael Martchenko has illustrated over 30 books for children and has exhibited his work throughout North America. This entry was posted in Books and tagged book review, children's book on February 5, 2014 by LifeAsAConvert.
It does sound like a fun silly book and my toddler loves laughing along at the illustrations in books too.
I like how the book turns around the crazy sleeping on the parent considering in most beds, it’s normally the kids.
GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 2TROUBLESHOOTING TOOLS AND SAFETYTIPS AND TRICKSLets talk aluminum foil for a minute. The different designs are differentiated by being a different "model" or "series." Confusing the issue even more, some manufacturers "private label" their machines for large department stores. They laughed and giggled as they saw Jason’s father sleeping where he most definitely should not be sleeping. I don’t really recall meeting any authors like that in school, but I think it would have been cool. She blogs about her faith, homeschooling, and raising special needs children as a single mother. Such as Sears' Kenmore and Montgomery Ward's Signature machines. Check the following list to determine if you have one of these "cross-branded" machines. When she is not blogging, you can find her advocating for people with disabilities, enjoying true crime documentaries, and trying to find downtime.
I have loved his books ever since and have bought so many of them for my kids over the years.
But even in an oven with natural convection, it can mess up airflow and cooking and even cause burners to malfunction. If you simply must line the bottom of your oven with foil, at least poke holes in it where there are holes in the oven floor.
They are known in the parts houses as "Whirlpool belt-drive" models. In the early 80's, Whirlpool began manufacturing their "Design 2000" washers. They're there for a reason.2-1 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) When working on gas cooking equipment, if you've disconnected a gas pipe to replace a valve or other component, always test the pipe joint for leaks when you reassemble it.
You can do this by coating the joint with a solution of liquid soap and water and looking for bubbles. Apply it with a brush to make sure you coat the joint thoroughly, and use a mirror to look at the back side of the joint if necessary. These machines were sold as GE, Hotpoint, and "private-labelled" as JC Penney and Penncrest brands. In 1995, GE started making a new "front access" washing machine.
Your appliance parts dealer has gas leak testing solution, with a brush built into the cap, made specifically for this purpose. 2) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any oven that you're disassembling. They make reading accessible and fun, and are agreat tool for early readers seeking to improve their reading skills.Download this application, and put an entire library in your pocket! Unlike the old model, there is no rear access panel on these machines; all the machine internals are accessed through the front.
If you need to re-energize the oven to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated.
Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! Tumblebooks have been enjoyed by children for over ten years andcurrently distributed through over 10,000 schools and libraries across North America.TumbleBooks are created from existing picture books from North America’s biggest andbest children’s publishers such as Chronicle Books, Charlesbridge Press, Annick Press,Simon and Schuster, and many others.
These machines were sold as GE, Hotpoint, and "private-labelled" as JC Penney and Penncrest brands. In 1995, GE redesigned their dryers. WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands.
Frankly, these washers were pretty poorly designed, displaying major oil and water leakage within five years. In the '90's, WCI was bought by Swedish giant Electrolux, who changed the company name back to the Frigidaire Home Products Company. There is a reason that it stopped - you can bet on it - and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will fail again. WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands. In the '90's, WCI was bought by Swedish giant Electrolux, who changed the company name back to the Frigidaire Home Products Company. Replace the part. 4) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component.
The orbital machine, manufactured since the late '80's, is a "Newton" machine with a redesigned "orbital" transmission with only six moving parts.
They have continued to manufacture these "Herrin" machines as Maytag "Performa" models and high-end Crosley brand machines, but they have gone through a LOT of evolution.
Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands! 6) If you have diagnosed a certain part to be bad, but you cannot figure out how to remove it, sometimes it helps to get the new part and examine it for mounting holes or other clues as to how it may be mounted. 7) When testing for a 110 volt power supply from a wall outlet, you can plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer. The "orbital" transmissions are interchangeable with the pre-1980's so-called "counterweight" transmissions. Unlike the counterweight machine, the gearing in the orbital transmission can be serviced without removing the transmission from the machine.1-2 BEFORE YOU STARTFind yourself a good appliance parts dealer. You can find them in the yellow pages under the following headings:APPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, MAJORAPPLIANCES, PARTS AND SUPPLIESREFRIGERATORS, DOMESTICAPPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, REPAIR AND SERVICECall a few of them and ask if they are a repair service, or if they sell parts, or both. If you're testing for 220 volt power you need to use the VOM. 8) When splicing wires in an oven, remember that you're dealing with high temperatures.
You can find them in the Yellow Pages under the following headings:APPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, MAJORAPPLIANCES, PARTS AND SUPPLIESREFRIGERATORS, DOMESTICAPPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, REPAIR AND SERVICECall a few of them and ask if they are a repair service, or if they sell parts, or both. Your parts dealer has high-temp connections, porcelain wire nuts and fiberglass-insulated wire for this purpose. I want to impress upon you something really important. However, you don't want to badger them with TOO many questions, so know your basics before you start asking questions. Some parts houses may offer service, too.
They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath, "guide" you to their service department. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good. They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath "guide" you to their service department.
They should contain the model number SOMEWHERE. If you have absolutely NO information about the washer anywhere, make sure you bring your old part to the parts store with you. Sometimes they can match an old part by looks or by part number.1-3 TOOLS (Figure 1-2)The tools that you may need (depending on the diagnosis) are listed below.
They should contain the model number somewhere. In any case, and especially if you have absolutely NO information about your dryer anywhere, make sure you bring your old part to the parts store with you. However, you don't want to badger them with too many questions, so know your basics before you start asking questions. Some parts houses may offer service, too.
If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service. An inexpensive one will suffice, as long as it has both "AC Voltage" and "Resistance" (i.e. On some models, you will also need the lot number to get the right part, so if there is one on the nameplate, write that down, too.2-3 TOOLS (Figure 2-A)Most of the tools that you might need are shown below. It can save you lots of time and hassle.1-4 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any washer that you're disassembling. If you need to re-energize the washer to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated.
It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 2) To work underneath the washer sometimes requires leaning the washer back against the wall at a 30- to 45-degree angle. Remember the rule in section 1-5 (1); while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair. Always have someone standing by to help you while you work beneath the washer, in case it comes down on you.Figure 1-7: Leaning the Washer Against the Wall 3) If the manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter. In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM.


There is a reason that it stopped--you can bet on it--and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will stop again.
When testing 220 volt circuits (usually in electric dryers) make sure you always follow the precautions in rule 1 of section 1-5!Figure B-4: Testing Voltage1-4(b) TESTING FOR CONTINUITY (Figure B-5)Don't let the word "continuity" scare you.
Replace the part. 4) If you must lay the washer over on its side, front or back, first make sure that you are not going to break anything off, such as a drain hose or fill valve. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. And for goodness' sake, make sure you drain the thing completely first! 5) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component.
Remember the rule in section 2-1; while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair.
And NEVER EVER remove the third (ground) prong in the main power plug! 6) When opening the washer cabinet or console, remember that the sheet metal parts are have very sharp edges. You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter.In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM. If you're not getting full power out of the outlet, you'll know it right away. 2) If you just can't get that agitator unstuck, your appliance parts dealer has a device called an Agi-Tamer for just such an occurrence. It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" scale. It's basically a heavy-duty rubber balloon that fits under the agitator, and uses water pressure to lift it upwards from underneath. 3) If you need to drain the tub (usually because your pump isn't pumping out) most folks try to bail it out. If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. And what happens when that nice, week-old dirty wash water reaches your mouth? You guessed it: there's a better way. What's the point in sucking the water through the hose?
You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact.
It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source. Well, instead of using lung suction to do that, let's use hose pressure. Leave your garden hose connected to the faucet, and put the other end of it in the washer tub.
If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading.
The air is gone now, right? Kink the garden hose so you don't lose the water charge, and disconnect it from the faucet. This is the resistance reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity. When you're sure the faucet end of the hose is lower than the bottom of the washer tub, release the kink in the hose. If you do not, the switch is bad.   1-4(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory.
It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" or "ohms" scale. No muss, no fuss.1-6 HOW TO USE A VOM AND AMMETERMany home handymen are very intimidated by electricity. If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one. If the meter does not read zero ohms, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something. Remember the rule in section 1-4 (1); while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair.
The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the density of the magnetic field, or flux, it produces aroundthe wire.
The ammeter simply measures the density of this flux, and thus the amount of current, flowing through the wire. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the cur rent going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). If you need to re-energize the dryer to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated. If you do not, the switch is bad. 2-4(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. I want to impress upon you something really important. For our purposes, it doesn't matter how fast the current is flowingTo use your VOM to test continuity, set the dial on (resistance) R x 1, or whatever the lowest setting is. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.However, 220 VOLTS CAN KNOCK YOU OFF YOUR FEET.
To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). If the solenoid's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something. If there is still live power on the item you're testing for continuity, you will burn out your VOM instantly and possibly shock yourself. Touch the two test leads to the two bare wire ends or terminals of the solenoid. If the meter shows any reading at all, something in the oven is using power.2-5 WIRING DIAGRAMSometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. And if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will stop again. The symbols used to represent each component are pretty universal. Wire colors are abbreviated and shown next to each wire.
Replace the part. 3) If you must lay the dryer over on its side, front or back, first make sure that you are not going to break anything off, such as a gas valve. GR or GN are green, GY is gray.A wire color with a dash or a slash means --- with a --- stripe. Lay an old blanket on the floor to protect the floor and the finish of the dryer. 4) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component.
And NEVER EVER remove the third (ground) prong in the main power plug! 5) When opening the dryer cabinet or console, remember that the sheet metal parts are have very sharp edges.
In some wiring diagrams, wiring and switches inside a timer or other switchblocks are drawn with lines that are thicker than the rest of the wiring. The small white circles all over the diagram are terminals.
Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands! 6) When testing for your power supply from a wall outlet, plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer. These are places where you can disconnect the wire from the component for testing purposes. The ammeter simply measures the strength of this magnetic field, and thus the amount of current, flowing through the wire. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other components) and see if there's anycurrent flow.To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do).
If two wires cross on the diagram without a black dot, they are not connected. Switches may be numbered or lettered. Usually the terminals on the outside of the timer or switch are stamped or printed with markings that you will see on the wiring diagram. To test a switch, mark and disconnect all the wires. For example, in figure 2-F, if you want to test the door switch, take power off the machine, disconnect the wires from it and connect one test lead to COM and one to NC.
If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet.
In this simplified circuit diagram, notice that only the heating elements operate on 220 volts. WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands.
Since the locking mechanism is interlocked with the heating circuit, the oven will not reach cleaning temperature either.Let's start at the lock motor and find out which switches feed electricity to it.


Tracing the other lock motor lead, we first end up at the "C" terminal of the 4-position selector switch. Looking at the switch for the chart, the "C" to "LM" contacts are closed when the "clean" button is depressed on the switch.
Power then leaves the thermostat through the "5" terminal, so we need to check for continuity between terminals "5" and "6" of the thermostat. Since it is a thermostatic switch, only heat will open the switch, so we only need to test it for continuity. They are shown in the diagram in their "normal state." So continuing with our circuit, if the locking motor is not turning, you need to check switch "B" for continuity between the "COM" and "NC" terminals.
If there is no continuity, it might mean the switch is bad. It might also mean that the switch was not returned to its "normal" state the last time it was activated!You need to examine the switch carefully to determine what the problem is. If the locking motor stopped turning before the switch unlocked, you've got other problems. You will need to trace other circuits in the diagram to figure out what. From the "COM" terminal of switch "B," the circuit goes back through the door switch to L1. The door switch feeds several other oven circuits, too, so unless there's something else not working, we can eliminate that as the problem. The door must be closed to close the switch that feeds electricity to the thermostats and heating circuit.To check for a wire break, you would pull each end of a wire off the component and test for continuity through the wire. You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is - there is no magic way.
An ammeter is a safer way to test energized circuits if you have one, especially testing 220 volt circuits.
Occasionally, if the component is inexpensive enough, it's easier to just replace it and see if that solves the problem. Following is a primer on how to test each individual component you might find in any given oven. Take all wires off the component and test continuity across it as described in section 2-4(b). Switches should show good continuity when closed and no continuity when open. NO means "normally open" and with the switch at rest, you will see no continuity through it. SELECTOR SWITCHBLOCKS A selector switchblock, located in the control panel, is a group of switches all molded into one housing.
In your oven, a switchblock might be used to allow you to choose a cooktop heat setting, for example, or a cleaning cycle instead of a baking cycle.
You must look at the wiring diagram to see which of the terminals will be connected when the internal switches are closed. Keep in mind, however, that you must also know which of the internal switches close when an external button is pressed.
When you press one button on the switchblock, several of the switches inside may close at once.To test a switchblock, in addition to the wiring diagram, you must have a chart that gives you this info. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. Usually this is a part of the wiring diagram. Using the diagram and chart in figure 2-J, lets say we want to test contacts "T1" to "FM" for proper operation.
We see that with the "clean" button pressed, these contacts inside the switchblock should be closed. Although error (fault) codes for most major brands may be found in Chapter 7, usually diagnosis consists of simply replacing circuit components until you find the bad one. Usually the problem turns out to be a bad oven sensor, stuck or defective keypad, ERC (clock) unit or a circuit board. These can be tested and rebuilt or replaced as described in this chapter.2-6 (c) THERMOSTATIC CONTROLSA thermostat is simply a switch or a gas valve that opens and closes according to the temperature it senses. If there is an automatic oven cycle, main control thermostats must also be wired through the timer. And if there is a cleaning cycle, they must be either bypassed or adjusted for the higher temperatures of that cycle.
That's where you start to get dual-control thermostats, thermostats with twelve leads, and other complexities. And for goodness' sake, make sure you drain the thing completely first! 5) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component. Some even control two levels of the same pilot. Main control thermostats are about the most expensive commonly-replaced parts in an oven. It should be the last thing you conclude, after you have checked out everything else in the system.The liquid inside the bulb and capillary of an oven thermostat is usually a mercury or sodium compound or some other such nasty and dangerous stuff. So when you replace an oven thermostat, do not cut open the capillary or bulb, and dispose of the old thermostat properly.
The definition of "properly" varies between jurisdictions, but check with your appliance parts dealer or local fire department hazardous materials professionals.ADJUSTING THERMOSTATS The oven is adjusted by a small adjusting screw in the center of the oven thermostat valve stem. In other words, if you set the thermostat at 350 degrees, you want the heating system to cycle on if the temperature is below 340 degrees, and off when the temperature reaches about 360 degrees. With nothing else in the oven, place it in the middle of the oven, where you can see it through the oven door glass.
The air is gone now, right? Kink the garden hose so you don't lose the water charge, and disconnect it from the faucet. The important thing to remember about clocks in an oven unit are that often the thermostat controls are first wired through the timer.
When you're sure the faucet end of the hose is lower than the bottom of the washer tub, release the kink in the hose. Also, if you are troubleshooting a no heat complaint in an oven with an automatic cycle, the first step is always to check the timer controls.
The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the density of the magnetic field, or flux, it produces aroundthe wire.
It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. The woman who greeted me was the ultimate Susie homemaker; everything was spotless in HER kitchen. Including the oven, which looked new, but this gal swore she'd owned it since it was new 35 years before, and by golly she knew it inside and out and didn't know why two ovens out of three suddenly didn't work.
You must have a wiring diagram to determine which terminals are connected when a switch inside the timer closes. Put a resistance meter across those terminals and advance the clock to determine if the switch is opening and closing.
If the clock motor doesn't run or the switches don't open and close as they are supposed to, replace the timer. For our purposes, it doesn't matter how fast the current is flowingTo use your VOM to test continuity, set the dial on (resistance) R x 1, or whatever the lowest setting is. If there are any special wiring changes, they will be explained in instructions that come with the new timer. Clocks and timers can usually be rebuilt.
Ask your appliance parts dealer for details.2-6 (e) ELECTRIC HEATERS AND IGNITORSElectric heater elements and ignitors are tested by measuring continuity across them as described in section 2-5(b). If the solenoid's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something. Replace heater elements if they show no continuity.2-6 (f) RELAYSHeating elements use a lot of electricity compared to other electrical components. The switches that control them sometimes need to be built bigger than other kinds of switches, with more capacity to carry more electricity. The switches involved in running a heater or ignitor can be too big to conveniently put inside the control console or timer.
Besides that, there are safety considerations involved in having you touch a switch that carries that much electricity directly, with your finger. The way they solve that problem is to make a secondary switch.
A little switch activates an electromagnet, which closes a big switch that carries the heavier current load.
Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good. If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service. If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.



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