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Of course, the old Jasper brick itself doesn't fit the slim model at all, so I tried to use just the two-prong power cord, but that didn't work either. Yeah, I think the shitbox itself doesn't require the 220V since - I THINK - all shitboxes should be within that designated voltage range of 100-127V and freq range of 47-63 Hz. I'm wary of it because it's not a microdick product, so if it dies or kills the console, I won't have any recourse at all. Quote:I bought it so I could play Japanese games that will never be licensed here in the US. It's a shame that some of the really cool games and kept exclusively for the Japanese video game market (i.e. I have to admit that of the current systems, the shitbox has better game selection all around.
This item will be posted through the Global Shipping Program and includes international tracking. Will usually post within 1 business day of receiving cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab. Refunds by law: In Australia, consumers have a legal right to obtain a refund from a business for goods purchased if the goods are faulty, not fit for purpose or don't match description.
By submitting your bid, you are committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder. By clicking Confirm, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder.

By clicking Confirm, you're committing to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder and have read and agreed to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. By clicking 1 Click Bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder. I can't find an adapter for it either, but, even if I did, would it work if I just plugged the thing or do I need some kind of step-up converter?
However, my knowledge of this stems from when I was in europe and had to step everything down to US standard from 220. You've read and agreed to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase your maximum bid amount. The frequency is a liiiiiittle too close to the actual 60 I need (as opposed to the 50 Hz Hong Kong would need). The cool thing is is that even if the power brick wouldn't work, its resale value seems to be okay. Possibly you could tap off of that, but only if you really, really know what you are doing in the sense of being an electrician.
In order to get to some good titles, I had to buy them through their stupid on-line service. It might subdue my tendencies to collect junk since I'll be wasting most of my time collecting pinatas in the game.

If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. This power supply thingy is cheep, like some mass-produced knock-off that will set the house on fire if I breathed on it wrong. Lazers and bullets cover the entire the screen the whole time that you can't even appreciate the graphics and backgrounds. The new power bricks for the slims should look the same, except for the voltage requirements. The designs and colours look cheep and homemade - very simple designs - and from what I've read I think it IS made by one person. The controls are really simple: move up, down, left, right, shoot stuff, avoid ships and bullets.
The game itself is not that much fun; it's frustratingly difficult because I know for a fact I will never be proficient enough to pass even one level without getting killed off about 10 times. That was a damn shame since I haven't played any decent side-scrolling shmups since Gates Of Thunder. I still haven't figured out completely how some ships get blow up and you get a ton of points and at other times you blow shit up and you barely get a few points.

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